Hi, I had a problem with the motor on my furnace blower and it seemed the bearings were bad. My dad replaced the bearings. In his workshop he powered up the blower and it ran. However, when I put it back in our furnace and tried to run it, the fan didn't turn and the motor started to smoke.
Any ideas on what might cause this?
The furnace is an Amana Air Command. I think the category I chose for this question is not quite right but I couldn't find one for furnaces.
I recently installed a horizontal gas furnace. All the electrical and gas supply was done correctly for sure, but upon the trial run, some smoke was coming out the supply lines into the house. I used some flex duct tape to seal all ductwork for air leaks. I also used some inside the first box coming off the heat exchangers to seal the inside of the box for leaks. Could the tape be burning because its to close to the heat exchangers and smoking or is it because its because its brand new and the heat exchanges have to burn a while? Please help
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Usually the unit is mounted to the cold air return (cold or intake air) and the round hose is then attached to the plenum (hot or discharge air). The humidistat is usually mounted just above the unit onto the meta plenum, unless you have a control somewhere else or your main t/stat has that capability built in. Its usually wired in with the furnace 24Vac control (or whatever yours happens to be) so that the unit only comes only when the furnace is on.
if your talking about a humidifier that's connected to a hvac system , there are two basic types , one uses a wheel similar to one a small pet rodent would exercise its self on , but this one is covered with a mesh that holds water, and a motor not a rodent turns it , fresh water is maintained in a dish in bottom of unit by a level activated valve ,it's activated in two methods one by airflow switch (paddle) and another by being connected to blower motor of air handler(electrically)
the other type is nozzle type , these need to be mounted in long straight runs of main duct work not more than ten feet from furnace (heat) these simply have a air flow switch that opens a valve to let house water into nozzle in duct , much smaller than 1st version unit
Is the fan running and stopping before the unit completely quits?
If the fan quits the compressor won't run very long.
I would start with the fan motor or capacitor.
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the blower wheel to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced. r.
This model furnace does not come with a built in humidifier. Humidifiers are normally an optional add on. If you have a by-pass type humidifier it is none adjustable. Water level is normally float controlled and operation is control by blower circuit. When ever the blower runs the humidifier operates when in the heating mode.