Question about Weather King 12AJA4801AH Air Conditioner

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Can't turn any part of 12AJA4801 on.

I blame the thermostat. But with four wires, don't know how to make the circuit.

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T-stat r and rc togather to furnace r
t-stat w to furnace w
t-stat G to furnace G
t-stat y to furnace y
on the furnace y their should be one cable with 2 small wires 1 goes to y the other goes to the neutral of the transformer terminal C turn the power off so ya don't short the transformer if its not all ready bad. Good Luck Tom

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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I have a Lux DMH110 therostat, I have four wires; red, white blue and green I don't know there to put the blue wire. On the direction it has Y for a/c compressor I don;t have a yellow wire. Where do...


The color of the wires is a guide only. The lettered terminals on the thermostat are important To pay attention to. R- is 24 volt power w- is heat g- is for the fan y- is for your ac. Sometimes The wire colors matchup sometimes they don't. Your blue wire should go to the y terminal If you have ac.

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I need to replace a 15/15/15/15 Bryant Quad breaker. It is very difficult to find these for sale. Can a quad be replaced with two twins or four single pole breakers?


The reason for using the quad, is so that if any one of them trips, they all trip. GE used to sell lever covers that would join the levers together. I don't know if they still do. And I don't know if the Bryant breaker is JUST 4 single poles with their levers connected together.

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Model:pf1103t will come but won't turn pump on now???


PF1103 is thermostat for 120V and 240V applications, and is usually wired to a timer that controls pool pump. When temperature drops below thermostatic setting, the thermostat by-passes the timer and runs pump continuously so pipes don't freeze. Usually this question appears in wintertime instead of summer, so I wonder how the PF1103 is turning ON, unless you are experiencing problems with a timer.
PF1103 manual shows wiring:
http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Inter-PF1102T-Operating.pdf
You can buy the thermostat separately
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-PF1102M-Freeze-Protection-Mechanism/dp/B004I4278M

1) As an electrician, I would begin by looking for loose wires, evidence of burning and high heat.
2) Next I would examine the circuit and circuit breaker to see if voltage is reaching the timer and thermostat.
3) Last step would be to test individual wires to isolate problem.
Be sure to stand on dry surface like plywood when testing live electric circuits.

If you have a timer, open following links to help identify timer module, and then add a comment with timer model:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-trippers-and-parts.html#FM
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html#pool

Jul 24, 2011 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

Outside condenser unit not functioning. I checked circuit breaker, not tripped. I can easily spin the fan with a pencil....


If the circuit breaker is not tripped (and you have line voltage to the unit) - and your inside blower motor is running - then your problem is with the thermostat/or the wiring from t-stat to outside unit.
Could it be you don't have the t-stat set on "cooling," or possibly not set at a low enough temperature to allow the unit to be turned on? Note: your t-stat must be set 'below' the inside temp, i.e. if the room temp is 78 degrees - you must turn the selector to below 78, i.e. 75, 74, so on.
Check your low voltage wire going to the outside unit - usually a thin brown wire which encases 2 smaller wires (usually red and yellow) that goes to the 'starter relay' inside the outside unit. Make sure a dog hasn't chewed it in - two - or someone hasn't cut it with a weed eater. If this is the case, turn the t-stat to off, and un-plug the inside unit (furnace) and splice the wires back together.
You can do this fairly easy with a pair of cutters and if the wires are 'color coded' you will know which wire(s) to splice back together. Note: this is 24V wiring but still you should make sure power is off - because 24V can zap you sometimes - AND you want the power off so you don't 'cross' the wires and short out the transformer.
There is a chance that the thermostat is bad - but it is not likely, and in any event you'd probably need a serviceperson to diagnose this.







Jun 15, 2011 | Ruud UAKB048 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

The air blows but there is no heat. damn thing is only year and half old and samsung will not help


Unplug the dryer. Remove the control panel on the top. Look inside for a sheet of paper with the wiring diagram or service instructions. If you don't find one there, look on the back cover panel. (Every US appliance maker provides this, but I've never looked inside a Samsung dryer so I don't know about their practice.)

If you find the wiring diagram, you can use it to identify the wires going to the thermostats and heating elements. Now you can use an ohmmeter to check which part is open; the wiring colors marked on the diagram will let you find the terminals in the control panel going to the thermostats and heaters so you don't have to take everything apart for diagnosis. Note: in a typical dryer, if you get no heat on Medium, but you get heat on the Low setting, you already know the Medium heat element is burned out. High heat uses both elements.

If you don't find a wiring diagram, you will have to look for the thermostats and heater terminals. Usually there is a thermostat mounted on the door frame at or near the top of the opening to the drum. There will be a second thermostat mounted on the top of the heater pan or box. Usually these are supposed to be closed (you get continuity) when they are closed. The heaters should show some resistance, but should not be open.

If you find an open circuit from the control panel, it doesn't mean the part itself is bad; it could be a problem with the wiring terminal connecting the part. This is often obvious when you see it; the insulation at the terminal will show signs of overheating.

May 30, 2011 | Samsung Dryers

1 Answer

No hot water


Electric water heater can be repaired by homeowner.

Four things can cause NO hot water:
1) ECO red reset button tripped. Remove top cover on water heater, push red reset button on thermostat. Put insulation and cover back over thermostat.
2) Circuit breaker is tripped, circuit breaker bad, or wire loose in breaker box. Turn breaker on-off and listen for crackling or fizzing sound, and burned smell. Test breaker for 220Volts. Test top two screws on upper thermostat to see if water heater has electricity.
3) Bad upper thermostat. Replace upper thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
4) Bad upper element. Test upper element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

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I have a large room in my basement where I would like to install four Marly 58" baseboard heaters to work off one thermostat. The units are rated at 1250 watts each for a total of 5000watts. I plan to...


Using the equation I = P/E where "I" is Amps, "P" is Watts, and "E" is voltage, we find that your 5000w circuit will have an Amperage of 20.83. A 22 amp tstat will work, it will just leave you no room for surges. I would suggest splitting the baseboard and using 2 thermostats. Hope this helps

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ENGINE OVERHEATING


Do the fans come on when the engine overheats? If so nothing wrong with the circuit and the thermostat(not thermo switch!) or radiator is to blame.
Test the fan. There are 2(if you have A/C fitted) Disconnect the electrical plug from the fan. Run 2 wires from the battery straight to the fan and see if the fan comes on. (Be careful when connecting not to short circuit the wires. Theres a lot of power in the battery!) Polarity does not matter. This is a direct current motor so reverse polarity will only make the fan turn in the wrong direction. If the fan turns reconnect its electrical connection and move to the next step.
To test the fan circuit locate the thermo switch. It is on the bottom right of the radiator and has 2 wires connected. disconnect the electrical plug and short circuit the 2 wires by inserting a piece of wire into the connector with the ignition on. The fan should come on. If it does the thermo switch is at fault and needs replacing.
With the electrical sorted there is not much else. Like I mentioned it is either the radiator(blocked) or the thermostat(sticking)
Radiator can be taken to a service centre and have them clean it out for you. The thermostat cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced. It can be removed and the engine will still operate, but just take longer to warm up. I'm not sure on the '99 model, but it is usually located on the right hand side of the engine at the bottom on the water pump housing.

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Installed new stat and fan won't come on in heat made or cool mode.


Turn the thermostat switch that says fan on------auto to on an see if the fan comes on ,if don,t then the problem was the circuit board or find power wires going to the fan motor and jump it out to see if the fan motor is good or bad. then if it starts, then you,ve know ,you,ve eleminated the fan motor and its the circuit board...

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Nee help ..my programmable thermostat wont turn on heat. works air just fine. I have four wire system Original white went to "O" green to "G" to "Rc" and Yello to "Y" I have tried multiple combinations....


The usual color code for thermostats are as follows:
Red (R) = Power
White (W) = Heat
Yellow (Y) = A/C
Green (G) = Fan/Blower Motor

That is for a standard 1 heat 1 cool thermostat. The other colors that you have described are usually for a heatpump system in which you have more than four wires. Depending on the furnace model, you can sometimes see the wires that go to a circuit board that are also mark with the same color codes. If so, then you just have to make sure that the w on the board is the same color has the w on the thermostat and etc. Hope this helps.

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