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Anonymous Posted on Jun 02, 2014

Heater wont start;don't hear blower motor

When i turn knob on heater, nothing happens. I don't hear any clickng or blower motor going. What could be the problem?

1 Answer

Robco Water

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  • Hayward Expert 258 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 20, 2015
Robco Water
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There are a variety of causes for this. any one of the safety systems may have detected a fault and thus wont let the heater run. if there is no electricity, the heater wont run. if there is insufficient water flow, the heater wont run.

5 Related Answers

john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 14, 2009

SOURCE: igniter not working when heater is turned on

Air pressure sensor on the blower blocked or damaged and not reading the fan is on. Control board not sending spark down to the ignitor. Check the short grey tube off the blower first. If clearing it works, great. If not, you'll likely need a warranty service call. http://www.haywardnet.com/locator/

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john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 15, 2009

SOURCE: Hayward heater not working

You'll never get enough gas from a 20 pound tank. Even 100# tanks struggle to evaporate enough gas to keep up with that heater.

In the mean time, what is the output pressure on your regulator?

john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 04, 2010

SOURCE: blower runs but no ignition then AO error code

Your problem then would be the pick up tubing and/or switch attached to the blower that closes once the blower is on to allow the heater to ignite. Pull the tubing and check it for dust or other debris clogging it and check inside the blower housing for the same. If you can test the switch under operation, you should see it remains open during start up which is why the burners won’t fire. If you do not find any obstruction (if you can, blow some compressed air thru too just to be sure) then you will need to replace the switch.

john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 14, 2010

SOURCE: Hayward Heater Problem ''AO'' error. H400IDH

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

It sounds as if the air activated switch the tube you mention attaches to is not working. Pull the two wires from it and connect them to simulate the switch closing. Start up the heater to see if you get ignition. If so, replace the switch.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 26, 2011

SOURCE: pilot light is lit,when i

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


First you will need to get a hold of a digital or analog multimeter and set it for 2 Volts DC. You'll need to check the pilot generator is putting out enough voltage to operate the heater beyond maintaining the pilot solenoid valve. Put the black probe to the white generator lead and the red probe to the red generator lead. Make sure the heater system toggle switch and/or thermostat are turned off for now. You should read ~400mV or more. On a 2 Volt scale it will read 0.450 or so. Anything over 400 is generally acceptable.

With the probes still in place turn everything on and see if the voltage drops into the 300mV range or lower. If it does the heater is trying to light the burner but for some reason it cannot. Please comment with your readings for more advice. If the meter does not read much or any drop in voltage something in the safety circuit is open and preventing the heater from firing.

Your safety circuit is a string of several switches all strung together in a row with the gas valve at the end and the beginning of said string. Any one switch being open or a bad connection anywhere in the circuit and the heater will not fire.

You task is to remove one end of the circuit from the valves TH or TT post and put one end of you meter on that wire and the other end on the TH/PP terminal. It will likely read infinite resistance. Leave one meter lead where it is and remove the other. Follow the circuit from the connected lead up to the first switch. Check continuity from the lead left connected to both sides of the switch. If there is continuity to both sides the switch is fine. Keep moving from switch to switch until you find the bad switch or connection. There may be more than one. When the circuit is working properly and there is nothing within the heater to cause it to shut off you should have 5 ohms or less across the entire circuit. Once you get the reading to that level the heater will work as it should

If you are not familiar with the process I described you would be better served hiring a pool technician to perform this repair as you can cause significant damage to the heater if you do not repair it properly.


If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

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