Question about Hayward 3/4hp Super Pump Inground Pool Pump 115/230 Volt # Sp2605x7

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How do you separate the motor from the housing?

I removed 3 long bolts from the end but now what?

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Remove the bolts in the back of the plastic strainer housing, that will take the basket assembly off the pump.
The diffuser/ should be visible, this simply pops off with a little twist. The impeller should be now be visible
Remove the metal cap from the back of the pump.
Remove the rubber cap on the back of the motor under the metal case, (may not have one)
You will see a the back of the motor shaft and a slot that a flat head screw driver fits into.
Now is a tricky part that is somewhat dangerous.
You need to hold the impeller and turn that motor shaft with the screwdriver counter clockwise. It's best to hold the impeller with a rag for a better grip. You need to make sure you're using a beefy screwdriver that fits that slot well, or you might slip and jab yourself with the screwdriver.
It is tough to remove. Be careful.
Once the impeller is removed, you will see the seal plate, the bolts for this are on the back out the motor mount plate and can be removed with little effort.
You should now be down to a just a motor.
You may need to buy a replacement seal, as they tend to fall apart once tampered with.

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

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Front ceal is leaking


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Fig. Fig. 9: Removing the ball joint to steering knuckle clamp bolt


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Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the retaining bolt and remove the speedometer pinion from the transaxle assembly


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Fig. Fig. 11: Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle and arm


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Fig. Fig. 12: Separate the outer CV-joint splines from the knuckle hub by holding the CV-housing and pushing the knuckle out


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Fig. Fig. 13: Support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-housing to free the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 14: Separating the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 15: Removing the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 16: Removing the seal from the housing using a suitable prying tool

  1. Remove the cotter pin, lockwasher and spring washer from the front axle ends.
  2. Have a helper apply the service brakes and loosen the front axle hub retaining nut.
  3. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel assembly. Drain transaxle fluid.

The speedometer drive pinion must be removed from the transaxle housing before the right side drive axle can be removed. Remove the retaining bolts and lift the pinion with cable connected from the housing.
  1. Remove the clamp bolt that secures the ball joint stud with the steering knuckle.
  2. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle connecting point and the control arm. Take care not to damage the rubber boot.
  3. Separate the outer CV-joint (Constant Velocity) splines from the steering knuckle hub by holding the CV housing and pushing the knuckle out and away. If resistance is encountered, use a brass drift and hammer to gently tap the outer hub end of the axle. Do not pry on the outer wear sleeve of the CV-joint.
  4. After the outboard end of the drive axle has been removed from the steering knuckle, support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-joint housing to remove the assembly from the transaxle.


WARNING Do not pull on the shaft or the assembly will disconnect. Pull only on the inner CV-joint housing.
  1. Remove the halfshaft from under the vehicle and service as necessary.

To install:
  1. When installing the halfshaft, hold the inner joint assembly by its housing, align and guide the shaft into the transaxle or intermediate shaft assembly.
  2. Lubricate the outer wear sleeve and seal with multi-purpose grease. Push the steering knuckle outward and install the splined outer shaft into the drive hub.
  3. Install the steering knuckle assembly. Tighten the ball joint clamp bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Tighten the hub nut (splined shaft nut) to 180 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). Refill the transaxle with the proper lubrication fluid.

If after installing the axle assembly, the inboard boot appears collapsed, vent the boot by inserting a thin round rod between the boot and the shaft. Massage the boot until is expands. Install a new clamp to prevent dirt from entering the boot.

Oct 17, 2012 | Mopar Performance 1995 - 1997 Plymouth...

1 Answer

Thermastat diagram install


Thermostat - 3.0L (2V) Removal and Installation
  1. Partially drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to COOLING SYSTEM DRAINING, FILLING AND BLEEDING .
  2. Remove the three thermostat housing bolts. Fig. 25: Removing Thermostat Housing Bolts
    Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

  3. Remove the thermostat O-ring seal.
  4. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Thermostat - 3.0L (4V) Removal and Installation
  1. Raise and support vehicle. For additional information, refer to JACKING & HOISTING .
  2. Remove the front splash shield. For additional information, refer to FRONT END BODY PANELS .
  3. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to COOLING SYSTEM DRAINING, FILLING AND BLEEDING .
  4. Remove the cooling tube bolt. Fig. 27: Removing Cooling Tube Bolt
    Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the radiator upper cooling tube bolt. Fig. 28: Removing Radiator Upper Cooling Tube Bolt
    Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

  7. Disconnect the upper radiator hose and engine vent hose. Fig. 29: Disconnecting Upper Radiator Hose And Engine Vent Hose
    Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

  8. Remove the two bolts, and separate the radiator tube from the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat. Fig. 30: Removing Bolts And Separating Radiator Tube From Thermostat Housing
    Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

  9. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Apr 22, 2012 | 2002 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Truck will not start, wanted to check starting celinoid1995 niss pick up


Solenoid Replacement
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Unscrew the two solenoid switch (magnetic switch) retaining screws.
  3. Remove the solenoid. In order to unhook the solenoid from the starter drive lever, lift it up at the same time that you are pulling it out of the starter housing.
  4. Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that the solenoid switch is properly engaged with the drive lever before tightening the mounting screws.
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Fig. 4: Exploded view of S114-605, 606B, 607 and 608SA type starters-1989-95 models (click image for zoom)




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Fig. 5: Exploded view of M3T38482 type starter-1989-95 models




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Fig. 7: Exploded view of S114-527A type starter-1989-95 models


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Fig. 8: Exploded view of M1T60281 type starter-1989-95 models


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Fig. 9: Exploded view of S114-703A type starter-1989-95 models




Brush Replacement
NON-REDUCTION GEAR TYPE

  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Remove the solenoid (magnetic switch).
  3. Unfasten the two end frame cap mounting bolts and remove the end frame cap.
  4. Remove the O-ring and lock plate from the armature shaft groove, then slide the shims off the shaft.
  5. Unfasten the two long housing screws (at the front of the starter) and carefully pull off the end plate.
  6. Using a screwdriver, separate the brushes from the brush holder.
  7. Slide the brush holder off of the armature shaft.
  8. Crush the old brushes off of the copper braid and file away any remaining solder.
  9. Fit the new brushes to the braid and spread the braid slightly.
Use a soldering iron of at least 250 watts.
  1. Using a light-grade solder, solder the brush to the braid. Grip the copper braid with flat pliers to prevent the solder from flowing down its length.
  2. File off any extra solder and then repeat the procedure for the remaining three brushes.
  3. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

When installing the brush holder, make sure that the brushes line up properly.
REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
  1. Remove the starter and the solenoid.
  2. Remove the through-bolts and the rear cover. The rear cover can be pried off with a small prytool, but be careful not to damage the O-ring.
  3. Separate the starter housing, armature, and brush holder from the center housing. They can be removed as an assembly.
  4. Remove the positive side brush from its holder. The positive brush is insulated from the brush holder, and its lead wire is connected to the field coil.
  5. Carefully lift the negative brush from the commutator and remove it from the holder.
  6. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Starter Drive Replacement
NON-REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
  1. With the starter motor removed from the vehicle, separate the solenoid from the starter.
  2. Remove the two through-bolts and separate the gear case from the yoke housing.
  3. Remove the pinion stopper clip and the pinion stopper.
  4. Slide the starter drive off the armature shaft.
  5. Install the starter drive and reassemble the starter in the reverse order of removal.

REDUCTION GEAR TYPE
  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Unfasten the solenoid and the shift lever.
  3. Remove the bolts securing the center housing to the front cover and separate the parts.
  4. Remove the gears and starter drive.
  5. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Hope this helps (remember to rating this answer and leave a testimonial comment) Thank you for using Fixya.


Oct 12, 2011 | 1995 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

Caere can i find parts diagrams for 2006 ford f150 4x4 front axle assem. and hub


This should be a great start but do suspect that you will need a few more items. Let me know if that becomes true.

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  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
  2. Remove the dust cap.
  3. Remove and discard the wheel end nut.
  4. Remove the vacuum and vent line at the vacuum and vent port of the integrated wheel end.
  5. Remove the 3 integrated wheel end bolts.
  6. Remove the tie-rod nut and separate the tie rod from the knuckle.
  7. Remove the upper ball joint nut and separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle.
    CAUTION Do not damage the hub seal.

    NOTE Allow the steering knuckle to swing outward while keeping the halfshaft pushed inward.
  8. Once clearance is available, remove the halfshaft outboard end and integrated wheel end from the hub bearing.
  9. Remove the integrated wheel end from the halfshaft outboard end.
  10. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Use new a wheel end nut, tie-rod nut, and upper ball joint nut.
    CAUTION Do not install the integrated wheel end in the knuckle. It must be installed on the outer constant velocity joint housing.

    CAUTION Do not dislodge the integrated wheel end seal spring when installing the integrated wheel end on the outer constant velocity joint housing.

    NOTE Compress the integrated wheel end and install a vacuum cap on the vacuum port.

Apr 29, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to replace the main belt on the bottom of the washer. The belt goes around the drive pulley directly below the electric motor which is accessible from the front bottom access panel. The belt goes...


Unplug the motor wiring, remove the bolts holding the motor bracket (4 I think) remove the hoses from the pump and lift the motor and pump out. Remove the 3 screws on the pump and separate from the motor. Put the belt on the pulley and replace the pump. Slide the motor and pump back in with the belt attached, but don't put the 4 bolts on until you put the belt over the tub pulley. Then put them in and plug the wiring back onto the motor. That should do it!

Nov 20, 2010 | Amana NAV8805EWW 3.3 Cu. Ft. Elustra Tub...

1 Answer

Can't get the 4 motor to housing bolts off sp 1515-z-1 esc pump motor without twisting bolt into. have broke one as of now. Trying to replace pump seal. instructs say to remove 4 motor bolts to housing and...


Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

As a rule, when we get those pumps in for repair and the bolts are breaking you notice the motor shaft is severely corroded as well. Often times that will make the unit unrepairable as the new seal won't hold up on a damaged motor shaft. If that is your case you will want to at least consider a new motor and seal for the pump.

If you can remove the bolts with or without breaking you can precede to attempt the repair. Bear in mind you will need to get the busted tips out of the pump housing in order to install the new bolts. That is not an easy task as you are working with a small brass bushing in a thin plastic leg. The removal easily damaged the pump housing. Try to work the bolts back and forth to free the tips. You will then need to get the broken tips out. If all goes well and the shaft is not too bad you should be ok. Anything goes wrong, replace the motor and seal and you'll still save some $$$ compared to a whole new pump.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Sep 12, 2010 | AO Smith A O Smith Motors Century 1hp 115v...

1 Answer

How to replace power cord


remove the bolts that the hold two ends on . mark houseing,scratch one end with a x from end cap to houseing. then the other end with a stright line from end cap to motor houseing so it all stay the way it came apart. ok.remove the end that was the cord or get to it . cut wires long but not to long there is no room in the motor for it. you will need a good pair of crimping plires and rigth size crimps connectors. and some rubber tape or srink tube to cover repaired lines in motor. some motors have bolt /screw to connect to it. make a drawing of the wires on the motor before removing. after repairis made with volt /ohm meter, set to the lowset ohms setting. check each line to see if it connected right. make sure it looks like your drawing .line up ends with reference mark install bolts tight but not too tight. good luck

Dec 24, 2009 | Simer Plumbing

2 Answers

Need location of thermostat ,over heating.


If you follow the top hose from the radiator to the motor you'll notice a housing where the hose meets the motor. Disconnect the hose and remove the two bolts holding the housing in place. Remove the housing and the thermostat is underneath. When you replace it make sure the old gasket is completely removed and replaced with a new one. If pieces of the old gasket remain you will nto get a good seal and will eventually end up with leaks.

Nov 14, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

How do you replace thermostat


Mr. Lakewood,
The thermostat is in the housing at the end of the top radiator hose where it connects to the engine manifold. The thermostat housing is clamped onto the hose and is bolted to the engine manifold by two bolts.
1. Drain enough coolant from the cooling system to a level below the height of the thermostat housing.
2. Remove the two bolts and separate the housing from the manifold.
3. Remove the thermostat from the engine. You may have to pry it out if it is stuck. (Don't be alarmed if there is no thermostat. Some mechanics remove them for troubleshooting).
4. Scrape off the old gasket and sealant from the housing and the manifold.
5. Install new thermostat, pointy side towards radiator.
6. Use Permatex #2 (non-hardening sealant) on both sides of the new gasket and bolt down the housing.
7. Replenish cooling system.
8. Start engine, allow to warm up and check for leaks.
9 *done*

The Permatex #2 gasket sealant ($4 AutoZone) is in a small tube. One small tube is more than enough.

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