Question about GE Microwave Ovens

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My ge microwave quit working while i was cooking in it. it is if a breaker blew but none did. i plugged it into another outlet and still no power. does this microwave have a fuse or reset button? it is model # HVM1540SNSS

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  • GE Master
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The parts I would suspect are (in order) the TCO (aka thermal cutout / thermostat) located on the magnetron, the TCO on the top of the oven cavity, the bottom TCO (not to be confused with the hood TCO, which should read open), or the 20A ceramic line fuse, which is likely to be located on a filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.

Accessing some components (especially the oven cavity thermostat) for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall and take off the outer cover.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

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At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

It is vital that the internal cooling fan runs whenever the oven is cooking, or the magnetron will be destroyed.

When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually.

I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave.

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Since power = voltage X current, 1.58kW / 120VAC = 13.166A

So this unit should be fine on a 15A breaker unless the breaker is bad, the wiring or a connection is loose somewhere between the breaker and the microwave, or the microwave's magnetron or high voltage transformer are failing and drawing extra current.

Microwaves should really be on the own separate breaker if at all possible. Plus, the more a breaker trips, the more work out it gets.

Have you measured the voltage at the outlet? If that's off, current and power will be affected. It should be about 110-125VAC.

A good power test for outlet and wiring integrity is a toaster, toaster oven, or hair dryer rated at about 1500 watts.

If it doesn't run and heat steadily, then there may be a problem with the house wiring or breaker.

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We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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