An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: will not heat up
Did you check for 220 volts to dryer? Power to the dryer is made up of 2 110 volt circuits. If 1 is down it can still run but not heat. Check with voltmeter across 2 outside prongs of plug with it pulled partialy out of socket. BE VERY CAREFUL.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The procedure is as follows:---
1) First of all unplug the dryer
from electric outlet for safety reasons.2) There are two panels in the dryer.
One is top and other is front panel.3) Both the panels are secured by
clips in between them.4) Take a putty knife and insert it in between the top
panel and the front panel of the dryer. Press the retaining clips with knife
and separate the top and front panel by Lifting up on one corner of the top
panel to release the opposite retaining clip.5) After the clips are pressed both the panels will easily get separated.
But take care there will be a connecting wires between the panels. You don’t have
to pull that wire while separating the panels.6) You will see the door switch on the upper right side corner
area of the front panel.7) Remove the wire harness from the door switch carefully.8) The remove the flange of the front panel to the side panel on
each side by removing the screws.9) The front panel will get separated from dryer after removing
the screws.10) Now with the help of screw driver remove the screws holding
the drum bulkhead of the dryer.11) Now push the idler pulley between the drum and the motor
assembly with you hand to loosen the belt tension.12) The belt will easily come out one you loosen the belt
tension.13) After the belt is out. Carefully lift and remove the drum.
Now on the lower rear side you will see the heating element.14)There
are wires connecting on the sides of the heating element terminals. The wires
are connected by removable connector.15)Remove
the connector carefully from heating element with the help of needle nose plier.16) After
the wires are removed from heating element’s terminals.Remove the screws
holding the heating element.17)The
heating will have to be moved a bit to come out easily. Before removing the
heating element out.Please note down the position of old heating element. So
while placing the new heating element you don’t face any problem.18)Remove the old heating element and insert the
new heating element.19)Connect
all the wires as it were connected before.20)Refit all the parts which you removed while removing
the old heating element in reverse
method. Take care you don’t miss any part fitting. This will help. Thanks.
better but the restring kit comes in bracket # WE11XM30 heater assy mica heater but i would check tstat on top left of heater 2nd thermstat in ward rivited on metal plate thats usually the bad one and the thermistor on blower assy # WE4M336 or get complete asymbley 512 on parts break down and 240 on parts breakdown thermistor
Your model which we call the 417, is not usually easy to work on. The heating element is located behind the dryer drum. The drum has to be removed to change the element. There is a lot involved but given the cost of a stack unit the element and labor may be worth it.
It sounds like you replaced the heating element and the small thing you refer to was most likely the thermal fuse. If these are the components that you replaced, and if they are indeed good, the next thing to look at if the dryer is not heating up is the high limit thermostat. It is most likely faulty if the element and thermal fuse are good. Hope this helped and best wishes. Here is a picture of a thermal fuse and high limit thermostat to help you figure out what is what.
if coils is heating are you sure motor isn't running or just the drum not turning ? if drum not turning suspect belt ..if motor not running but element still heating suspect element is contacting outer case ..with coil touching case 110 volts is present even without motor turning if timer is turned to heat position element will not heat to capacity but will get hot enough to eventually blow element fuse
The problem dosen't sound like the motor. Check to see if the drive belt is loose and slipping. This is the usual cause of the problem you describe. If not, the bearings for the drum may be going bad. The heating elements should turn off shortly if the drum stops so there is little danger of overheating.
If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?
If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.
Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.
If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.
Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.
Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.