- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The eyepiece DOES NOT assemble. It is all one piece. If you unscrew the bottom or the top-- never do this. You must reassemble the lenses exactly.
The eyepiece goes directly into the diagonal (an L shaped device with a mirror inside, and then the diagonal goes into the tube.. That's it. You can buy eyepieces from dozens of different suppliers. Here is one:
The main problems encountered with the mechanics of the telescope centre around
the mechanical swarf, grease compound, the liberal use of grease and the quality
of machining of the main DEC and RA gears.
1. Remove the motors from the telescope. Be careful when removing either
motor as there is a compression spring between the motor mounting frame and
the worm shaft assembly.
The RA motor is located under the telescope body, removing the 4 screws and
2 Allen bolts will allow the bottom cover to be removed, thereby allowing access
the the 2 Allen bolts holding the motor in place. Unplug the motor from the
main PCB before removal.
The DEC motor is in the the fork arm containing the clutch and fine DEC adjustment
control. (Never to be used with power applied to the scope). Remove the 3 small
Allen screws holding the plastic cover plate in place and the DEC clutch knob
to allow access to the motor. Remove the RJ45 connector located inside the telescope
fork arm. Then remove the motor by unscrewing the 2 Allen bolts holding the
motor in place.
2. Remove all grease from the motor worms, especially around the RA motor's
magnetic pulse detector and the permanent magnet built into the worm shaft.
3. Remove all grease from the main DEC and RA gears, making sure to clean into
the gear teeth.
4. Lightly re-grease with a Molybdenum Disulphide based grease (Castrol MS3
is great for this application if you can get it)
5. Assemble in reverse order. But before doing so, carry out the electrical
adjustment above then, (a) relocate the the RA and DEC control PCB's in the
vertical plane thereby gaining access to their respective backlash Allen screws.
Adjust for 20thou max clearance when in final position. Note:- the DEC adjustment
screw has to be replaced for a longer unit complete with a thin bolthead as
this adjustment has to be carried out with a spanner....there is no room for
an Allen key adjustment here.
6. A drop of Loctite must be applied after adjustment.
7. The final part of the process is to run in the gearing. Apply 12 volts to
the motor wires, either at their respective plugs or to the motor direct. Allow
to run for 2 to 3 hours in each direction by reversing the battery polarity
to bed the teeth engagement. Remember to release the clutches.
The washers are there for a reason-- there is an adjustment screw for the worm gear-- and the Dec axis works off a friction clutch when you tighten the knob on the fork arm.
Are you talking about the center bolt on the tripod that holds the telescope on the tripod-- ??? If you overtighten this it will interfere with the rotation of the telescope....and can break the motor.
Here is Jan's LX90 web site with disassembly instructions and pictures--
Still not enough information, but taking a stab at it, I'll assume you mean the pinion rod that goes between the focus knobs, and engages a gear rack on the focuser. There are locations where they can be purchased, and you would need to provide the OD and pitch (teeth per radian) to match.
Try: http://www.pinionrod.com/ as a source.