My turn table system driven by a dc motor accelerates when i attempt to stike my arc. If i shut off my arc starter system all works normally. this is an intermitant problem, I have good grounds, whats going on?
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Most of these motors run on about 9 to 12 volts DC. You can connect a 9 volt battery to the terminals of the motor. Make certain the rest of the system is off and the motor power leads are not connected to the main system. If the motor doesn't turn with the battery it's faulty. If it does then you are perhaps looking at some switch that has failed or the power to the motor itself!
The problem might be with your rods. It sometimes happen that the flux around te metal becomes soft if the rods were kept where there is a lot of moisture. If that is the case you can 'bake' the rods in the oven to dry it our. The flux must have a lower melting poit than the metal rod so that it can make a cup. The edges of the cup keep the rod away from the metal, allowing the arc to jump. How do you 'strike' an arc? One method is to tick on the metal. A better method is to stike the rod over the metal like you stike a match. This action will give you the 'cup' that you need to start welding. I hope it helps.
Hello! are you sure, that your speed selector is on 33.3rpm, not 45? assume, it's in correct speed settings. do you know, that across the ocean power grid AC frequency is 50hz, in US it's 60hz. Means: ac motor will spin faster, than it should. If you bought this unit abroad, that's where is your problem at. some expensive units have 50/60hz pulleys switch, some not. Especially, if it's DC or direct drive motor. Check your owner's manual for specifications. May be you find an answer. If not, there is a problem with motor's regulator, which is built in(DC motor). Turntable is a belt driven. If you won't find 50/60hz adjustments, take it to repair shop. Good luck, Alex.
When the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops turning, so the relative position of valves doesn't' change if you try cranking the motor over. Any valves (intake or exhaust) that aren't fully seated will allow pressure to "blow by" that other wise would form the compression you say you no longer have.
What I'm not sure of is if you have an "interference" motor. An referenced motor is one in which the piston can strike a valve head when the timing belt breaks. The clearances are so close that all moving parts have to be in perfect sync in order to operate and not strike one another.
It is possible, with an interference engine, to break valves and / or crack a piston if attempting to crank and the piston comes in contact with an open valve.
If it isn't an interference engine, you shouldn't have any problems. Just get the cam and crank (and any other shaft(s) that may be belt driven) in proper timing, install a new belt, apply the correct tension and you're basically "good to go"
I'd suggest you purchase a vehicle specific repair manual at your auto parts store. It'll contain step by step instructions specific to your vehicle on how to perform this repair.
This is very important for Audi 1.9 TDI engine: IT IS FORBIDDEN TO RUN WITHOUT DIESEL FUEL IN RESERVOIR !!!
This type of engine is equipped with pump-nozzle injectors which develop up to 2050 bar injection pressure !
Remove the fuel filter, fill up with diesel fuel and put in place. After that try to start the engine with accelerator pedal to the floor. Heed of electric starter motor temperature and battery status! After 40 - 50 sec. of start attempting wait for 1 - 2 minutes for battery and electric starter motor revival. After few starting attemptions the engine must start.