Question about Whirlpool LEQ9858P Electric Dryer

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Dryer motor turns on but Dryer won't tumble...opened the top and it appears the belt is fine. Are there two motors? One for heat and one to turn the belt?

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Your dryer is equipped with one drive motor. If the belt were broke the drum would not turn. The drive portion has nothing to do with the heating circuits of the dryer, other than driving the blower fan assembly to circulate air. More than likely you have a problem in the heating circuitry, or improper voltage at the wall receptacle. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The most common cause of dryer heat related problems is poor, or improperly installed exhaust ventilation. If you haven't inspected your dryer ventilaion ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so. If you leave a dryer in a clogged condition, it will overheat to the point of failure. This also creates a potential fire hazard.

The voltage at the wall receptacle should be the first thing to check. Make sure you are reading 220-240VAC across the two hot leads (The LEFT and RIGHT slots). If you are only reading a portion of the voltage, this will cause the same symptoms you describe. The reason: The drive motor only uses half the input voltage to run. The heating circuits require the full 220 service.

If the voltage is bad at the receptacle, verify your breaker are set correctly. You may need an electrician to troubleshoot.

If the voltage is good at the receptacle, UNPLUG the dryer momentarily and remove the cover plate on the back of the dryer where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. If the voltage is good at the terminal, this verifies your power cord and the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer heating circuits. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, you have a bad power cord.

If you verify the input voltage and power cord are good, the most common fail item in the heating circuit is the thermal cut-out (TCO). This component is mounted on the heater box along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat. These two components work in conjunction to regulate the heating circuit temperature. If one or the other fails, it is recommended you replace BOTH components. They are often sold as a kit. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any components you replace.

Read through the lnk provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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No only one motor

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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Hi.

The machhine is belt driven check the belt first.

If the motor is must be tested energizing it.

In all cases test the lid switch to ensure it is not opening contact when machine starts tumbling.

The wiring harness to motor must be tested.

If there is no other fault elsewhere, replace the timer board.

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If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:
Belt,
Motor,
Door switch.

Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.
If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

Remove the belt,
Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing,
Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.

If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

Go here to see a diagram for your model:
one of two types. "H" or "J"

http://www.repairclinic.com/0079.asp#DiagramH

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Kenmore electric dryer


If dryer does not spin it is usually a problem with the belt or the motor. Check also door switch.

See also following indications from Repairclinic:

It won't tumble If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:

Belt
Motor
Door switch
Belt Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.

Click here for a belt installation diagram.

Motor If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

  • Remove the belt.


  • Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing.


  • Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.


If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.

Door switch Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

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Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.

Click here for a belt installation diagram.

Motor If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

  • Remove the belt.

  • Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing.

  • Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.

If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.

Door switch Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

if this helps please vote me a fix ya

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