Question about Dryers
Hi, The timer will not advance unless there is heat (if in the automatic cycle)
I would check the fuse first, here is how:
UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the fuse. It is white and ¼” wide and 3” long. It is located on the blower housing. Remove the wires and check to see if it has continuity. If it does not, you need to replace it.
If the dryer heats in first part of cycle and stops late in cycle, you will need to change the coils on the gas valve. Here is how:
UNPLUG the dryer. This model you need to remove the two screws under the lint screen. Now use a flat blade screw drive and insert it in the gap between the top and the front panel and pry the top up. Now locate and remove the screws on the inside of the front panel in upper corners. The front should lift off. You will see the two black coils on the gas valve. When you remove the three wire coil, make sure the sleeve inside it gets put back on the post the coils slides onto.
If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
replace both coils on the gas burner (the round black dohickeys)after first ignition they tend not to pull valve open next time heat is called for
Posted on Jun 07, 2008
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
This link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Just follow the links to navigate through the site.
You will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. to access your product information.
Here are some common solutions to help resolve the issue with your appliance. Clicking on the underlined links will take you directly to that page.
If your dryer doesn't heat properly, check this: Venting restriction: Disconnect the dryer temporarily from the vent. If the flame stays on for a longer period, you may have an air flow obstruction to the outside. Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time. Also, in your case, the coils may work fine initially, but heat build up can cause the coil(s) to malfunction and when they cool down will work again.
This link will help you with disassembly and diagnostics diagrams.
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 09, 2008
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
You may have a bad heating element,unplug the dryer. you need a 1/4 in socket driver to take off the back panel this will give you access to the guts.If your handy you can buy a new one and replace it.Tell me if you need more help.
Hope this helped.Let me know by rating me.
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Posted on Jan 30, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer not heating or turning off
It can be multiple problems. First are you using it on sensor dry or timed dry? If it is timed try, it's possible your timer is not advancing. If you are using sensor dry it could be your sensor.
To test the timer, check for continuity across the timer. If it is open, replace the timer.
To test sensor, run the dryer on sensor with nothing in it, if the timer advances quickly, the sensor is not the issue. If it does not advnace, it could be the sensor.
The no heat issue; check to make sure you don't have a blockage in the venting or in the dryer. If there is no blockage, check your element. To check if the element is not heating up, check for continuity through the sensor.
Hope that helps.
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
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