Question about Refrigerators

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Ice maker works great, cubes are hollow in the center. Have already tried adjusting freezer temp down a few degrees thinking the freezer was so cold the temp was flash freezing the water in the tray to quickly. This did not help, even after allowing severl days for the temp to equalize. ge profile refrigerator 10YEARS OLD model# TPX24BRBB BB serial# AV217126

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  • 2 more comments 
  • rounds3 Jun 25, 2009

    Okay, I have a micro switch design, followed the instruction you sent, removed ice maker, washed clean, dried, plugged in, rotated small gear ccw and started a new cycle. Captured the water and it measured 45CC, a third what is recommeded by your first post. Where do I go from here??

  • rounds3 Jun 26, 2009

    There is no saddle valve, the water comes from under the sink and has a regular dedicated shut off valve just like for the water supplying the sink or dish washer.



    Traced down the line down to the water valve up to freezer, no kinks. The water dispenser works great and fill quickly, same water valve that fill the icemaker so I assume there is no flow restriction from the water valve.



    Tried adjusting the water with the set screw, very sensitive and tricky. I noticed when I turned the small gear ccw and started a cycle that it rotated and filled, then rotated and filled again. The unit went around two times before it stopped it's cycle, is this normal? Any other ideas?

  • rounds3 Jun 27, 2009

    Does not use a saddle valve. Under the sink is a seperate stub out and sink valve that takes care of the refrigerator. 1/4" npt valve and tubing all the way.

    What about the adjustment screw on the ice maker, can that be adjusted to increase the flow?

  • rounds3 Jun 29, 2009

    LAST COMMENT DID FOR ME, THANKS A LOT, WORTH EVERY PENNY!

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  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

If your icemaker is producing small cubes, hollow cubes, huge cubes, or a solid slab of ice, one of the first things you want to check is the fill level. And it's not as difficult as you might think.



Unplug the refrig, pull the icemaker - usually one screw underneath, either 2 more or hooks above the cube mold - and unplug it. Take it to your sink and melt out any cubes with hot water. Then plug it and the refrig. back in, leaving it unattached from the freezer wall.

Manually start a 'harvest cycle' (see below) and hold a baby bottle under the fill tube. You'll have to wait a few minutes, because the water enters near the end of one complete rotation of the cube ejector, which constitutes a 'harvest cycle'.



Regardless your type of icemaker, you're looking for 130-150 cc's, with most working best around 145cc's, but anywhere in this range should work OK.
(When replacing your icemaker with a new one, always check and adjust the water fill level this way too. You'll save yourself a lot of trouble.)

Manually starting a 'harvest' cycle:

Two basic designs of domestic, analog icemakers are most common. (Electronic models come & go from time to time - shudder - but we aren't seeing them in great numbers - yet)

Pop the front cover off yours and check the large gear front & center. If the front plate is metal, and you see a Phillips screw in the center of this gear, that's great - you own a 'microswitch' design. This is one of the most reliable units ever made! Here's what it looks like with the front cover off:


Ice maker works great, cubes - 7d959ec.jpg

To manually start a cycle, either grasp the ejector and rotate upward (CW fr. front), or use a screwdriver to turn the smaller gear (CCW) if yours has a slot for this. Once you turn it a short distance, you'll hear a little 'click and the unit will start to run. Make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during this test cycle.

If there's no screw, that's OK too, you own a 'modular' unit, and even though we, um, make more income from these, they're still pretty decent. Here's what a modular looks like with the front cover off:


9eb06ed.jpg




To start a cycle with this one, don't attempt to turn the gears manually! You'll need a short piece of insulated solid copper wire, 12-14 gauge. (Just strip a 4 in. piece out of some 12-2 'romex' used in house wiring.) Strip the ends back about ¾ in. and bend it into a 'U' shape. This wire is inserted into the holes marked 'T' and 'H' in the front of the icemaker to bypass the tstat and run a cycle. (don't insert it into any holes except 'T' & 'H' !) Remove the jumper after a few seconds (or the heater will stay on), and let it run, waiting for the fill at the end. Again, make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during your test cycle.

Note: I stress this jumper wire needs to be insulated, because you're briefly jumping 120V here. The usual precautions apply!!




Both icemaker styles have a small screw to adjust water levels. The modular type has very little adjustment available, though, which means the other components in the water supply have to be right (saddle valve installed properly - not to bottom of pipe, etc - clean fill valve screen, etc.) Just rerun a test cycle after each adjustment.

<more coming - please be patient>





Posted on Jun 25, 2009

  • 5 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 25, 2009

    Hollow ice cubes are most often cause by insufficient water supply. Icemakers
    fill for about 7.5 seconds, resulting in about 4.75 oz. (140 cc) of water into
    the ice cube mold. If not enough water pressure is available at the fridge cubes may end up
    hollow and/or the fill could continue to dribble, eventually causing the fill
    tube to freeze closed.

    If you installed a
    'self piercing' saddle valve on your house water pipe, it should be changed to a
    drill type (which all fridge
    manufacturers recommend). It should also NOT be installed on the underside or a
    horizontal water pipe as lime and scale, etc., will have a tendency to settle in
    it eventually reducing flow even more. Only a drill type saddle valve should be
    used and only be installed on the side or a vertical pipe or the top of a
    horizontal pipe (if a regular plumbing tap can not be installed).

    There is often (but not always - depending
    on the exact model number of the refrigerator) a water fill adjustment behind
    the cover of the icemaker which can be made to adjust the fill time *slightly*
    but it should not be temperated with unless you are *certain* the water supply
    pressure is correct first.

    It has been my experience that most problems when customers complain of hollow tubes is a flow/supply problem. Water valve, saddle valve, or thermostat.

    You see - the thermostat is at the furthest ice cube from the water inlet... and it tells the maker/valve that it is cold (to temp) before all the water is in - because the empty cube spot gets to temp faster as there is no water in it... so the water supply shuts off prematurely.

    If the flow is determined good - the thermostat is likely faulty. CLICK HERE for the replacement part


    Please be sure to clean the dust bunnies from the condenser coils under the fridge - this causes inefficient cooling and can aid in the cubes not freezing properly too.

    Hope this information is useful for you.

    Thanks for using FixYa!!



  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 25, 2009

    So the problem would indicate poor flow.
    And you need to concentrate on...

    -The http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i/sad..." target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >saddle valve being plugged with sediment.

    You will need to turn off the main water supply, open the lowest faucet in your house and allow to drain... then remove the saddle valve and check for buildup. Also check the tubing for a kink.

    - inlet strainer (screen - if installed)

    - and the water valve

    CLICK HERE for all the available diagrams of your fridge.

    If you require additional help with tracking down the restriction - please use the "Continue with this expert" option so we are connected in the future.

    THanks :D



  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 26, 2009

    have you checked the saddle valve yet?

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 27, 2009

    You can adjust it using the screw - but the flow has been working properly up until now (correct?) which leads me to believe there is a blockage in the tubing somewhere.

    Removing the tubing at the fridge may reveal a screen strainer that may be clogged with sediment.

    Also - while the tubing is off... put the open end in a bucket and turn on the valve to check for proper flow and pressure.

    Then you'll know the problem lies within the cabinet.


  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 27, 2009

    Im having you rule out everything before having to break down and replace the fill valve...
    shown HERE as part #10.
    This is not your diagram - however it serves the illustrative purpose.
    i will work on finding your fill valve just in case.




  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 27, 2009

    The water valve is #800 in THIS DIAGRAM... and can be purchased HERE or just about any appliance repair store near your home.

    Just take in the old one with you so they can get the part number. It is a common valve used in a couple different brands.

    1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
    2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
    3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
    4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
    5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
    6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
    7.
    Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for
    the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is
    120 volts present at those connections.
    - now the waterlines
    attach using a compression type fitting. The new valve you get may use
    just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough just removed the
    pieces for the compression and the waterlines will push right in and
    worked fine.
    - the mounting harness for the valve may be a little different but the parts needed are in the right location and should fit in fine.
    8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
    9. Attach electrical lines.
    - the new valve comes with adapters for your electrical connection. Just snap them on and keep on going.
    10. turn on water supply for fridge. Plug it back in.
    11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
    12. Unplug fridge
    13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
    14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
    15. Plug fridge back in.
    16. Take a clean glass.
    17. Fill with water from the front.
    18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs.

    Good Job.

    !!


    Thanks for using FixYa!!


  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 27, 2009

    try to adjust the flow with the screw first before going through all the work though :D

    Good Luck!!



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