QGS-50 compressor runs fine for a couple hours then trips the breaker it runs about 180-200 deg allready replaced thermostat and cleaned coolers also when it reaches full pressure and unloads it doesnt completely unload it only goes down to about 20% load on the load guage

If the compressor is running and tripping the breaker, the compressor is likely overheating. This could be caused by a lack of airflow over the compressor and/or an issue with the compressor itself. You will want to check to ensure adequate airflow around the compressor and that any obstructions do not block it.

Sounds like the oil is low or the cooler is dirty. If that's not the case then you have a defective thermal valve.

Hello,

Try this:
Turn your thermostat as warm as it will go, you are trying to isolate the compressor and keep it from turning on. If your fridge has an "off" position, then turn it off. Reset breaker, plug refrigerator back into the outlet. If the fridge trips while "off", then you are likely looking at a damaged cord / wiring.

If the breaker doesn't trip, unplug the fridge, and move the thermostat to the warmest position possible. Plug fridge back in, If the breaker holds, then you are on right track. Slowly move the thermostat to a cooler setting. You want to just reach the point where the compressor tries to start. If breaker holds here, then you are in good shape so far. It indicates a problem with the defrost heater (if equipped), or the ice maker (if equipped). If the breaker trips as soon as the compressor tries to start, your compressor may be damaged (bad and expensive).

Unfortunately no, this is one of three things.
1. Compressor is worn and is starting to pull to many amps to operate. Can possibly be fixed by putting a hard start kit on the unit, but will have to be done by a technician.
2. Compressor has an internal short and will have to be replaced.
3. Fuses bad or under sized. Max fuse size is stated on information plate on outside unit.

Sorry to hear about your troubles and hope you can get it fixed soon!

Breakers are thrown by the build up of heat. And over time breakers do get weak try changing your breaker. Use the same size its plenty big. be careful and dont get bit by the electricity.

The compressor is probably drawing to many amps. Breaker could be weak also.. Need to check the amp draw on the compressor.

If the breaker is hot when it blows, the compressor is probably going bad.

Not good! The thermostat only supplies power to the compressor section, so a breaker tripping is a sign of a 'dead' short to that area. If lucky, it just an exposed wire or terminal connection damaged in that area, but rarely the cause. More likely is compressor mtr "locked rotor", or stuck "potential" start relay holding the mtr circuit in hi-amp load, or shorted internal motor winding's. The condensor fan can also short closed, but is rare due to it's design. I have to assume the electic breaker suppling that circuit is not failing, as cause?

It may be low on refrigerant. On hotter days, the compressor has to run longer to reach the temperature you have on your thermostat. Have it checked for the proper refrigerant charge and have them test how many amps that the compressor is pulluig as well. With the proper breaker installed, the unit should not be tripping out. Make sure that the breaker that is in there now is actually the proper one for your unit.
Best regrds, --W/D--

THE LAST THING THAT EVER HAPPENS IS FREON LOSS.

 

SO TRY THIS FIRST ...

 

LET THE COOLER STAND WITH "NO POWER FOR 24 HRS.

MAKE SURE IT INSIDE AT ROOM TEMP. NO HIGHER THAN 75 deg. AFTER THE ALOTTED TIME TURN THE T-STAT-"OFF" AND TURN THE POWER "ON" ...

THE CONDENSER FAN SHOULD START IMMEDIATELY. NOW LISTEN REAL CAREFULLY BY THE COMPRESSOR TO HEAR ANY CLICK NOISE. IF YOU DO THAT IS THE EXTERNAL OVERLOAD ( bI-METAL SAFTEY T-STAT THAT PROTECTS THE COMPRESSOR. TURN POWER OFF AGAIN AND DO THE FOLLOWING.

 

THERE IS : 1) A START (plug-in) RELAY THAT PLUGS INTO THE COMPRESSOR.

2) THERE IS A START ASSIST CAPACITOR MOUNTED USUALLY ON THE TOP OF THE COMPRESSOR TEREMINAL COVER.( THIS IS HELD ON WITH A METAL STRAP THAT CAN BE "POPED-OFF" WITH A SCREW DRIVER. OR IT MAY HAVE 2 MOUNTING SCREWS.

3) THERE IS A ROUND BI-METAL T-STAT THAT PROTECTS YOUR COMPRESSOR.(AS STATED ABOVE).

 

MAKE A DRAWING OF WHERE EVERY WIRE GOES AND THE DEVICES ON PAPER. .... THEN ... AND ONLY THEN REMOVE ALL 3 PARTS AND TAKE THEM TO YOUR LOCAL APPLIANCE REPAIR OUTLET. eg. APPLIANCE PARTS. APCO ETC.

THEY WILL CHECK ALL 3 COMPONENTS FOR YOU AND MOST ALL HAVE UNIVERSAL REPLACEMENTS FOR ALL 3 DEVICES NO MATTER WHAT BRAND YOU HAVE.... AND THEY SHOULD BE ABOUT $10-$15 EACH.

I HAVE REPAIRED HVAC & REFRIGERATION EQUIPMENT FOR OVER 40 YEARS. WHAT I DO IS REPLACE ALL 3 DEVICES. IF ONE IS BAD IT TENDS TO OVERHEAT THE OTHER COMPONENTS AND WEAKENS THEM.

 

NOTE: NEVER INSTALL REFRIGERANT SELFTAPPING VALVES TO CHECK FOR FREON ... A AMP DRAW WILL TELL YOU IF COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING AT FULL LOAD , AND AT THE EVAPORATOR YOU SHOULD HAVE A 10-20 DEG F. DROP IN TEMP. YOUR EVAP COIL SHOULD FORM A EVEN FROST ON IT IN ABOUT 2-3 HOURS.

THE MAIN THING IS TO ENSURE COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING.

IF YOU HAVE A THERMOMETER, THE LARGER COPPERLINE ON THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD BE ABOUT 50-60 DEG.AND EVENTUALLY WILL "SWEAT". THE SMALLER LINE SHOULD READ 120-150 DEG "AT THE COMPRESSOR" OUTLET CONNECTION.

MAKE SURE YOUR CONDENSOR AND EVAPORATOR COILS ARE BOTH ABSOLUTELY CLEAN. (CHECK WITH SMALL BRIGHT FLASH LIGHT TO SEE THROUGH COIL FINS.

 

THAT SHOULD SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM. YOU MAY FIND WHEN TAKING THE PARTS OFF ... A BROKEN OR BURNT WIRE. IF SO REPLACE IT WITH AT LEAST #12 STRANDED WIRE.

 

PROPER WIRE AND TERMINALS ARE AVAILABLE AT THE APPLIANCE PARTS STORE IN YOUR AREA.

 

GOOD LUCK ... JOE_REX

Not sure of what type of fridge you are refering to.. However you can try a few obvious things. Try turning the thermostat to a lower number (warmer setting) to see if that makes a difference. If you have an ice build up starting to form on the fridge plate or only a partially cold plate then you could have either a loss of refrigerant or compressor fault. Is the compressor noisey in comparisson to its normal noise. Is there heat being produced all over the condenser (black finned section on back of cabinet or underneath cabinet)..If not possible gas leak. Hope this is of some help.