Why does air gap overflow in the first two minutes of the "normal" cycle?

Check float valve actuator, might be indicating empty when water left behind. Think you can hear switch actuate as you move it.
So no clog or twist in drain hose? Manual indicates any standing water drains in first 45 secs. Makes me wonder if that is now normal. Was it always or just started to leave water....
Make sure you clean filter located in bottom

• E:25 means the drain is blocked or slow to drain.

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STEP 0:

• Locate the circuit breaker or fuse box (near the electric meter) or power cord for the unit and physically disconnect power for 20 minutes to reset the controller.
• Do not rely on the normal power switch on the unit because the power switch for most controller-based equipment is only a signal/request to the controller but does not actually kill power to the controller.

STEP 1:

• After 20 minutes, re-apply power to see if the controller behaves differently by testing the unit.

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Open the door slightly to stop the cycle.
Hold down the "START" button for approximately 3 seconds.
The display shows "O:O1".
Close the door.
The program sequence lasts approximately 1 min.
Wait until the display shows "O:OO'.
Open the door
Press the "POWER" button.
Close the door.
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Can you check the drain line?
Most homes use an air gap.

• Check the air gap that drains from the dishwasher into the garbage disposal.

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• Cut off power at the circuit breaker (near the electric meter usually labeled D/W).
• ----- Wait 20 minutes. -----
• Re-apply power.

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Check the air gap for obstructions in the drain:

• Turn off the power for the dishwasher at the circuit breaker panel (usually labeled D/W).
• Check your air gap for partial clogging (and the resultant impaired draining of dirty dishwater).
• You can either stick your gloved finger into the outlet hole inside the garbage disposal to probe for blockage or remove the air gap cover and place a heavy drinking glass over it to catch the jet of water shooting up.

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• If you have the less expensive air gap you don't have a screw-on cap under the chrome cover: the cap can be removed by using two thin screwdrivers to pry up both plastic tabs at the same time.

their will some water that always remains in the pump below the fliters is should never be visible in the tub once cycle is over but it must always be there to keep the seals moist to prevent them from dry rotting

It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine.This fault indicated can be due to failure of the water level sensors causing overflow but in all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occurs. Removing and Cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there is gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.

the over flow you are talking about is a dishwasher air-gap. Hose from air gap going to drain line is clogged clean it out and clean out where hose connects into drain

I ran into the SAME problem with my Bosch SHX46A06UC /21. The problem ultimately ended up being a clog in the air gap vent, (meaning, SOMEBODY ran the dishwasher without the bottom filter being in place or not in place properly). Remove the air gap cover and upper surface nut to drop the air gap vent into the area under the sink. Disconnect the hoses from the air gap vent filter (placing a bucket under the hose from the dishwasher). Run the drain cycle on the dishwasher. The washer should drain into the bucket and let you know that your pump works and that there are no clogs or kinks in the drain hose. (This will also remove the clog if so). The air gap vent's smaller hose connection is MOST LIKELY where your clog is. Look at the upper end of the air gap vent. You'll see a couple of clips on opposite sides of each other, that hold the air vent cap in place. Using a small screwdriver, (or your hands if you can), depress the clips (or one at a time) to get to the point where you can pull the vent cap off the filter. Either use water or a thin, long blade screwdriver to force any objects out of the filter. You should now have full flow through both branches of the filter. Using water and a rag, clean the vent cap and filter. Mount the air gap vent filter back onto the sink. Reconnect the hoses and remove the dishwasher's internal filter(s) and clean them as well while you're at it, making sure to remove any debris that might remain underneath the filter and has the chance of clogging the unit again.

Run the washer again to test. You should be good!

Cheers!

HI, usually, if the dishwasher dose not drain properly, it will be the fault of a defective or, malfunctioning pump. i will list several problem areas to check. Inspect each area properly and, replace any component that is faulty or fouled.


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

Check the following to address this issue.


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

It is not normal. Consider seeing another auto technician before the car ac gets another thing bad in your lovely vehicle.

Cheers.

rate this.

when you refer to the air gap, are you referring to the drain pipe of the washer to the house plumbing connection?
There can be two reasons for this
1)The receiver of the gap does not allow a high enough head to push the water through the trap initially and you have an overflow until the water begins to flow. Since you have an air gap, there is no pressure to force the flow other than gravity so if the stand pipe is very short combined with a fast flow into it, you may get a temporary "restriction" effect.
2)A clogged vent. depending on how the plumbing system is built, I can see where this may cause a slight pressure build up on the other side of the p trap and cause the same situation as #2.