What is causing my Fisher and Paykel OR61 Duel element to on work high heat when turned on?

SEE PICS Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fusebox orbreaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multi meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continui

Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

try turning power off at electrical main switchboard for a minute, then back on. reset clock and see how it goes.
otherwise > call the repair man.

Sorry, I don't have a solution, but a similar problem. My CE901 is 6 years old. One of the regulators broke after one year. The repair (under warranty) caused an electric fire a couple of weeks later. After much complaining, I got a replacement cooktop from F&P. Now, 5 years later, one regulator stopped working, no longer turns on the element. (I guess that's better than no longer turning it off.) You are not alone. Seems like F&P is incapable of producing a simple regulator that works reliably.

I note this cooktop came with a 2 year warranty.

All of the elements are controlled by item 16 of this manual:

http://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/file.php?document_id=6100

You will have to click on your model number to see it and probably have to enlarge the view.

The part number is 532037 but crosses to 533023 on several websites and sources.

If your having to pull the wall plug to shut it off this is the most probable failure.

Expensive part but most likely what it will take to correct your problem.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

u can find it only in the service center of the brand u have.

You may have a cracked element, they expand when heated and cause a separation in the element. You really have to put a voltmeter on it to test it under load. If the voltage remains constant while the element is heating and cooling, then indeed you have a bad element.

If you don't have a voltmeter, or don't want to perform this test, buy a heating element and replace it, if you have the same problem, you'll have a spare element

These people can get anything you need for Fisher-Paykel:


http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net

If you don't see it, ask them. They can get it.

need new spark ignighter

Sounds like the Switch or the element are bad, try trouble shooting them. It's a stove top??
Eddie Rentas
Tupper LAke NY