The electric start on a 700 series briggs & Stratton engine doesn't work at all
SOURCE: My lawn mower briggs & stratton engine 650 series will not start
check the fly wheel and coil it may have rust on it if so sand it off
SOURCE: briggs & stratton with idle problem
This is not unusual at idle; there is a governor to limit maximum RPMs and this device isn't worth beans at an idle.
You may be able to carefully adjust the idle adjustment (see your manual or B&S website) to achieve a somewhat more even idle speed.
SOURCE: craftsman 19.5 lawn tractor w/briggs & stratton keeps flooding
This could be a number or items from no spark to a faulty carburetor, a plugged up air filter, valves out of adjustment, poor gas, faulty spark plug.
First, see if your getting spark, how about taking the wire off a plug(s) and holding it about 1/8" or so away from the plug with some masking tape while you crank the engine. You should be able to see the spark jumping the gap, it helps if it is not too light outside. If you attempt to do this with your hands, you will get a spark jolt, it hurts, so use the tape and remember, the engine could start so proceed with caution.
If you have no spark there, then you ignition or magneto is faulty. This would be unlikely in the broader scope of things. You will likely get spark. Make sure the plug is clean, take it out and inspect. If it is covered in gunk well clean it. It will smell like raw gas but you already know that. Change the plug if in doubt.
Remove and clean and replace the air filter.
If you have spark, and a clean filter it is likely a carburetor problem, Depending on the carb, it could be the choke is faulty or, as per the below.
Depending on what model you have there is a float assembly in the
carburetor that stops the fuel from flooding the carb and air intake.
The gas tank is higher then the carb right, so if you dont have a
mechanism for stopping the fuel from leaking out the hole that goes
into the engine, it will all leak out right, as into the fresh air
intake because its easier than going into the engine. So, there is a
miniature float assembly, sort of like your bathroom toilet float to
stop the water. Well there is a small wedge type needle that seats into
a hole and it is attached to a float. As the gas rises in the bowl, it
pushes up the float, sealing the gas into a chamber, as you use more
gas, the float lowers and more gas goes in. So ,there is dirt jammed
into the float bowl sealing needle, just a little, thats all it takes.
So, shut off the gas somehow, hopefully you have a valve, or squeeze
the rubber line, then undo the float chamber, its one nut on the
bottom. Clean carefully. The needle, little spring and float assembly
are delicate. Also, the needle could be worn from engine vibration, so
it may need a new needle. It would help if you described the engine and
carb though.
I posted that as a solution to another problem, but yours may also be the valves need adjusting. Depending on the amount of hours, say over 200, then the valves timing will likely be off a bit. Check the clearances with a feeler gauge, it is not as difficult as it seems. Check your Owners manual for the clearance at top dead center. TDC is when you take the plug out and watch the piston arrive at the top of the cylinder through the spark plug hole when you are turning the engine over (do this by hand, battery off. Make the adjustments with the valve cover off. Follow the instructions.
Hope some of this helps.
SOURCE: What is the magneto gap for a 6HP Briggs &
Briggs lists it as .006 - .010 on this 6 HP L-head engine. The .010 width can easily be attained by using a standard sized business card as a feeler gauge (and it doesn't stick to the magnets in the flywheel). I double up the card, loosen the coil and let the magnets in the flywheel draw the pickup legs in until they press on the card, tighten up the retaining screws (threadlocker is optional) and your air gap is set.
http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/briggs/common_specs_single_cyl_lhead_engines.pdf
SOURCE: I have a Briggs & Stratton 500 series push lawn
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
When a primer bulb is slow to return to a static conditon there is a restriction in the fuel supply. Since this carb is mounted directly on top of the fuel tank the troubleshooting for this involves removing the gas tank and carb as an assembly from the engine. Remove the end bolt and then the side bolt spacer that is just above the tank. Be careful or the spacer will drop. Pull out on the tank until it slides off of the intake. When the tank is free of the engine tile the bottom of the tank toward you and disconnect the throttle linkage. NOTE the hole the linkage is connected to! Set the tank on a flat surface and remove the carb mounting screws. STOP! Do not lift the carb off of the tank until your sure that the gasket and diaphragm are not stuck to both mounting surfaces. You may have to carefuly slide a thin knife blade FLAT across the top of the tank to free the carb from the tank. There will be a SPRING on the bottom of the cabr also. Do not lose this spring and ensure you see how it is installed! Once the carb is free of the tank clean the screen under the carb and the carb with carb cleaner. Reassemble carb to tank. Fill tank with gas and re-check primer bulb BEFORE you reinstall the tank and carb on the engine. If it still does not work.. properly you need to clean the passages again. Worst case you remove the primber bulb to see if there is debris inside the bulb plunger area.
Installing tank and carb to engine....
Tip the bottom of the tank toward you.. connect the throttle linkage, watch the o-ring that is in the carb intake sealing area and make sure it seals. Install side bolt and then the end bolt.
Just back tracking here.. I have determined this is most likely a 11A-B04E000 Yard machine with a 5.0 Hp engine... (
Briggs and Stratton refers to this engine as the 10T500 series.
ENGINE Parts list is here:
http://www.brandnewmowers.com/pdf/11A-104B090EIPL.pdf
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
.
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