Question about E-Machines M5105 Notebook

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Cannot shut off & no display

Power and Battery lites on, cooling fan cycles-air is hot, Hard drive is running but not "working" on anything, no display. No response from power button when held down, nor "sleep" button. Cannot shut off unless I remove battery and ac in.----tried the solution of f3 with battery out, still no wake-up..... Re-seated mem chip, tried external display, re-seated HDD and left without power for 1 hr. - same old result.

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The eMachines M5105 is notorious for failing to boot if left unplugged and powered off long enough for the battery to become mostly discharged. Plugging it in to AC power will cause the battery to start charging; and the hard disk drive to spin while the CPU cooling fan cycles on and off vigorously. THE UNIT WILL NOT BOOT UNTIL THE BATTERY IS NEAR FULLY CHARGED; then THE AC DISCONNECTED; and then THE (charged) BATTERY REMOVED AND RE-INSTALLED! Most units will boot after following the foregoing procedure.

Posted on Jan 17, 2012

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SOURCE: should the sleep led be lite blue while notebook

There is a setting in some bios's for the sleep option. You may want to look in there to see if its active.

Posted on Aug 14, 2010

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It keeps shutting itself off ?


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My 2000 hyundai elantra is overheating..when i turn the ac on only one fan comes on the other doesnt


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It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the A/C air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniature jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....
Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

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1 Answer

When stopped at an intersection the ac blows warm. When driving the ac will blow cool. What is going on?


It is normal for the air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniture jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....

Check all main power electrical connections first....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

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1 Answer

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Sounds like the secondary engine / A/C cooling fan is not running.... Fine on highway is due to more airflow across the condenser...

Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
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You didn't mention the year or model so this will be generic. The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both.

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Test your PSU or replace it if your power supply units fan is not working your PSU is faulty

One bad lead can cause a computer to continue on a cycle or to shutdown or fail to boot

Test all leads that attach to your hard drive including electrical extensions,IDE,SATA

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Running very hot and shutting down


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2. If Cooling fan is NOT Coming on you can try a laptop cooling pad. these are external units by Targus and other companies that have cooling fans to supplement a laptop units cooling fan. You can try this to see if airflow is your problem.

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1 Answer

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If none it could be permanently sealed and need to replace the motor.
Let it cool before touching anything. again remove power first.

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