Question about Panasonic TH-42PWD6UY 42 in. HD-Ready Plasma Television
I have had a Goodmans LCD TV GTVL37W27HDF and today it switched itself off and would not come back on. There are no power lights on, I have checked the fuse and even tried a different power lead but both did nothing.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Panasonic 50 inch Plasma
it could have over heated you can try to reset it first unplug it for about five minutes and try to turn it on if that dont work the remote might have a set button try holding that down until the red light flashes twice, then turn it on if not then hold the power button down on the set for a good five seconds to see if that resets it. if none of that works you will have to go to panasonic .com for the reset instructions.with the red light blinking the power supply is most likely good you just need to reset i.
Posted on Dec 24, 2007
This is a classic switchmode power supply, has sensed a severe potential problem, and is shutting down to avoid a fire, explosion, or both. This set had developed a problem, that is so severe that the set must be shut down, This set should be removed from the Power, and in my professional recommendation, you should get a "Quote" for repair, from, an, Approved Service Center, this point is very important for a good result, Always contact, their local, "Head Office" Now, when you get the information you want, then you can decide as to repair of replacement. The reason we want an approved agent, is that way, all the engineers are trained on their own brand sets, they have seen almost all faults, and will get the job done quicker, and for less cost, and usually have parts on hand, also sometimes, there has been a service bulletin in issued and the repair may be subsided or even free. There are many, many, many reasons that display this symptom, one must work through the troubleshooting steps to isolate and identify, the Cause and repair that and any damage done
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go and try to repair you set. But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
user manual above service and repair manual below....
Posted on Oct 13, 2011
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