Oven burners will ignite on broil but not on bake mode. Ignitor is new. Is not allowing gas valve to open but is pulling 2.7 amps through ignitor. Why would gas valve not open to allow ignition?

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Hello there:
It doesn't bake Bake igniter
When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve

If you are certain the igniter is ok, it might be a good idea to call a professional appliance technician.

Need a new oven igniter? Click here for most common oven igniters or enter your oven model number in our PART SEARCH. ^ top It doesn't broil Broil igniter
When the broil igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not broil. The broil igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the broil igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repairtips/repairtips_range_oven.aspx#ixzz1CgFQ7lBJ
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Possibly the ignitor for the main oven burner has failed--

An observation question:

When the Broiler 'lights' and comes on, do you notice the ignitor glowing bright, before the gas valve (to the Broiler) opens, and you get the Broiler lighting---

Now-- for the main burner to come on, -- there has to be a similar bright glow from the MAIN BURNER ignitor, before its main burner gas valve can open-- No Ignitor?-- No ignition, and not Main Oven burner!

Let me know what you need from this point on --

Mack B

This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Ok well heres the deal. I'm assuming that because this is a self cleaning oven then its probably fairly new in which case you probably don't have actual pilot lights on there but "glowbars" which are called ignitors. If this is the case, and you can see your ignitors for the bake and broil both glowing then chances are you have a weak bake ignitor. If the ignitor is not getting hot enough, then it will not send enough current to the gas valve to energize it (allowing it to open and let gas in). If its not glowing at all you can just get a voltage detector (you can buy them at walmart for about 10 bucks) turn the oven on and use your wand to see if the ignitor is getting power. If it is then its going to actually be open or shorted.

Overall deal is that 95/100 times if you have a gas oven with ignitors and its not baking its and bad or weak ignitor. They cost about 60-90 bucks.

If your oven does indeed have a pilot light then you will have a bad thermocouple or possibly obstructed burner tube.

Hope this helps _MJ_

Hello there: The oven bake burner and ignition components are located beneath the oven cavity. In most cases the oven bottom panel can be removed for access (check your owner's manual) but on some models the oven burner has to be accessed from below in the warming or broiler drawer area. If accessing from the top, a 'flame spreader' (flat metal plate) above the burner may also need to be removed to see the burner itself.Many ovens use a single oven burner in which case they only have a single gas valve and ignitor. The same burner is used for both bake and broil functions, the broil usually being in the drawer area below the oven. Higher-end models may have a separate bake and broil burner. On such a system there will be two ignitors, one for each burner. They may also employ a 'dual' gas valve (see illustration above) instead of using a separate valve for each burner.Some range models may have an additional broil burner located at the top of the oven cavity which may be referred to as a 'waist high' broil. If not, broiling usually takes place in the drawer area below the oven, which uses the same bake burner for the broil function. Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system.


Making Observations
The oven burner's operation will usually need to be directly observed while in operation as the first step to troubleshooting problems.Ignition System Type Links
Ignition System Types:

Pilot Ignition

Electronic Ignition with Constant Pilot (rare)

Electronic Ignition with Glow Ignitor (most common)

Spark Ignition System

Is there continuity between the oven gas valve's terminals?


Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System (most common)
This is the most popular system currently used for ovens and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve.


What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame.

It should usually only take in the area of 30-90 seconds for the oven ignitor to reach the proper resistance to allow the proper amperage to reach the gas valve to open it and for the ignitor to ignite the gas at the oven burner.

The ignitor is not allowing enough 'current flow' to open the valve. The ignitor , even if it glows, can be 'low current' to valve.
(the ignitor current controls valve)

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Hi, Even tho the ignitor is glowing, it can be bad. It has to pull enough amps to open the gas valve. This is very common problem. I can get you the part and or prices if you could get me the model#
If I can help further, please let me know.

Thanks
Vic

Most likely a hot-surface ignitor has failed. If it doesn't consume enough current, the gas valve won't open. It's usually a fairly easy fix, once you gain access to the ignitor and have a new one to replace it with. Make sure you unplug the range...

Sounds as though the pilot light in your oven went out. On the inside of the oven there should be a small hole about the size of a 50cent piece on the floor of the oven. Turn on the gas for the oven, light a matchstick or rolled up piece of paper, stick it into that hole and it should light, monitor the oven for 30 seconds to see if it starts to heat. SAFETY 1st!