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My wood floors in my living and dining rooms have 4 coats of polyurethane. This was done professionally about 5 yrs. ago. I want to give the floors a facelift by adding another coat of polyurethane. What are the steps for me to follow so I can do it myself? Thanks, Joanne

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This will dependa litlle on the type of Polyurathane that was originaly put down - single pack or two pack and if you have done any type of upkeep to it in the mean time. Some people like to wax there floors to give them shine and a deadly slip factor, if you have waxed your floor you need to remove this wax before youo go any further. Talk to a local chemical supplier to find a wax remover. If you have not waxed your floor this makes it easy.

Wash the floor with a solvent cleaner that contains no waxs or soaps - I use mineral Turpentine on clean rags.

Sand the floor with a hand sander (orbital, vibrating or belt your choice, I prefer to use a square vibrating sander or 8" Orbital) - you do not need a floor sander unless you want to remove all your PU and get back to bear timber. The process of sanding is designed to rough up the whole top surface so that a new layer of PU will adhear to the old PU. So use about a 80 gritt pad. to fine a sand paper will not give a good key for the new PU and to rouogh a paper may scratch to deep into your floor.
Note: if your original floor was stained you must be very carful not to sand all the way through the PU as the timber underneath will show through as a differant colour.

Dust off the floor with a clean broom to remove the bulk of the dust then use Methalated spirits on clean rags and completly clean the floor. You are now ready to start applying the PU as per the manufacturers specifications.

Other things to note:

1) I always wear socks when cleaning back the floor for the last time as oil from your feet and hands can transfere onto the floor and cause small patches were the PU does not adhere properly.

2) After the reccomended drying time I always insist that my clients wait an additonal 24 - 48 hours to allow the PU to fully harden before they walk on it or move furniture. A lot of the PU manufactures seem to cut down there drying times to make there product more appealing to busy market.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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How easy or difficult is it to remove wall-to-wall carpeting and what are the best tools?


Ok,first off you may not need to remove the 1/4 round, being hardwood floor under the carpet, the 1/4 round was probably installed for it and the carpet was installed up to the 1/4 round baseboard.
It is fairly easy to remove carpet and pad. Take a pair of pliers and go to a corner, take a bite of carpet with the pliers and pull. It should come up if no base was installed on top. Now you just work your way around the room pulling up the carpet. once the carpet is free you can roll it up like a burrito, (each side to the middle then roll from one end. The tighter the easier to manage.) or you can fold one side in and cut it into strips 3 foot 4 foot whatever, to make it easier to carry out then roll strips up. Once carpet is out the pad is next. It will have been stapled to the wood floor around the perimeter and where 2 pieces of pad come together. You just pull the pad up, it will tear and the staples will stay in floor but just get rid of the pad, pull it and roll it and carry it out. That will leave you with a hardwood floor with a bunch of staples with pad chunks and tackstrip nailed to the floor.
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1 Answer

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Equlvalent expression


Assume that the room are rectangular.
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for determining that more information is needed, especially what type, brand/manufacturer, what thickness, base and chemical base of it...

in most cases sealing laminate (especially printed laminate!) is bad idea. if this laminate is with wood overlay at the top, with thickness of at least 1.5mm (1/16") and not chamfered edges (for skilled craftsman - floor installer, even 1mm) , then you can use any type of floor paint on the top,

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if this is "bare" wood then:

1. use universal sealer, use good quality paintbrush (50mm - 2") on the edges and corners of the floor and use good quality long hair roller on broad area, sealer will dry up within half hour to 1hr, depending on temperature and humidity, after seal dry,
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3. after 24hrs, scour area again in method as above and then
4. strain the paint and paint final coat.
5. wait at least 24hrs before you step on the floor,
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7. wait at least 30 days before you put rugs or mats on the floor

if this is pre-painted laminate and no damage to it, you skip point 1 and follow from point 2.

it is labour intensive process and albeit cut can be made in several days, paint must be done in single go! better if you have some assistance, one person doing the edges and one person rolling the paint. i do this sometime alone but usually one of the ta's will assist me... paint need to be applied rather thick in even motions no puddles and no bare bits left on the floor!

if you think about skipping cutting stage - DONT! - paint will start flaking and peeling away sometimes in few days or weeks, sometime after a year or so...


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