Honda ex3500 generating no voltage at all. oil is fine, clean spark arrester, clean coil area, and good 1-15 amp fuses. i thought there a larger fuse that could be the culprit but where the heck is it??? thank u

Ok, been awhile since I played with a Honda, but I believe in the KISS method.
#1 go buy a cheap $10 meter at harbor freight, Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, etc, etc. You can't just look at a fuse and say it's good, been there done that...LOL
#2 There used to be a fuse in the headlight bucket, check to see.
#3 real simple, did you leave your KILL switch off??? If not the check voltage to kill switch, make sure you have power coming out.
#4 check the ignition wire for the starter, when key is in on position or (start) position, make sure you have voltage. If you have power, follow it to your starter leads and kill switch.
#5 check voltage at your coils, Check for voltage coming out of coils. Just because you may or may not have spark, doesn't mean you have enough to start bike.

When you hooked in the LED's you either shorted wires to blow a fuse, over loaded a wire and possibly burned it in 2. Or you dislodged a connection someplace. Go back over everything you did again, and go buy a meter.

Check if there any alarm on monitor by pressing button several times. It has code like E-number. Replace spark plug, fuel filter. Clean carburator, spark arrester. Check wiring of thermosensor.

It sounds like the varb is gummed upo with old gas and the float is sticking. Service the carb

In no particular order: Check kill-switch on handlebar cluster. Check fuses. Check for loose or corroded wiring harness plugs. Check for bad pulse generator(s). Check for water in spark boxes and proper orientation.

Power comes from the fuse box to the handlebar cluster kill-switch. Check for power at the switch and after the switch with a test light or meter. If switch won't pass voltage, disassemble and clean then lubricate with silicone grease and reassemble.

Check each fuse with a meter. Remove the fuse, don't just measure it in-place. Glass (tubular) fuses can look good but still be blown. Test each one with an Ohm-meter out of the fuse panel. Same goes for newer blade fuses - pull them out and test. Fuse panel itself for blade fuses can be bad. These corrode and fatigue, cracking as base of spring contacts. Must fix fuse panel if bad as no new ones are available.

Remove seat, side-covers & tank then unplug, clean, and reconnect all multi-terminal wires going to/from steering head and coils/spark boxes. Double-check fast-on terminals at coil contacts. Double-check main ground connection to frame (under coil bracket).

Pulse generators inside right crankcase cover can fail and not send position pulses to spark boxes - pretty unlikely though. Check for continuity on each. Should show some resistance - not open. 2 pairs of wires - one pair to each pickup coil.

The spark boxes may be located either on rear fender liner under seat or one here and second one in a pocket on top of the tool-box depending on year. Spark boxes should be mounted with drain hole down and care should be used not to get water in them while washing (why would you wash a Sabre anyway?) Corrosion inside spark boxes is common on these. Some can be repaired but no new ones are available and haven't been for several years.

The wiring diagram is here: http://powerequipment.honda.com/pdf/manuals/00X31Z117200.pdf
The first thing to check is the fuse and breakers, then the inverter. If it is not the inverter There is a problem with the M coil section of the generator.

http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/manuals/31ZT7601.pdf

I would check spark arrester and clean it and the muffler first.lt could be the inverter unit. If you have a meter determine the output voltage, and freq. You would need a scope to look at waveform the repair should be lest to a repair center. suggest you call Honda for more guidance.
You could spend a lot of money on maybe parts./

Try to check the ECU fuse the Ignition fuse and the ground that is attached to the thermostat housing... Try using a voltage tester on fuses, ground out the black wire and use the positive wire red one to check the fuses by touching the pointed end on the two medal openings on the top of the fuse... I ended up changing so many thing by just looking at a ECU fuse that looked good.....

Check power going into the distributor, if you have no spark at the end of the wire.

50 amp or larger inside the fuse box area. It is a very large fuse

Honda generators are very reliable and are easy to adjust. The best way to check for proper output is to use a meter that can check cycles and voltage. Set meter to htz or freq and adjust the engine governor to 60 cycles. When the engine is turning 3600 rpm it is at max power and the generator may be producing ac voltage ranging from 115 to 125 at 60 cycles. When you draw power from the generator the engine governor will try to overcome the stress and maintain 3600 rpm. The engine must be well maintained to produce full power. Service oil, filter, plug and valve adjustment. Some engines have a spark arrester installed in the muffler that may become blocked with carbon. If engine is producing full power and voltage/amps is low then check brushes, capacitors, and/ or voltage regulator. Most problems occur when too much power is requested from rated generator. Example, trying to connect an 1800 watt air compressor to generator. The compressor may draw double the stated wattage upon starting and cycling. For longest generator life, It is best to use only 75% of rated output. On an 1800 watt generator use max wattage 1350. If you actually need to use 1800 watts then the best generator would be a 2500 watt. enjoy