New filter stopped after one day.

You guys probably have water with lots of sediment in it.
Install a larger sediment filter on the line going in to the refrigerator or even better to install one at the point of entry to your house.

A whole house sediment filter will make sure that all water coming into the house is free of particulate matter. This will make your water using appliances like the refrigerator filter, dishwasher, water softener, faucet aerators...etc last way longer.



WECO BB 10SED Big Blue Water Filter System for Sediment Filtration

• For our top mount filter, you must first disconnect the pipes leading into the valve and open the drain plug on the filter. Next, remove the clamp holding the multiport valve to the tank body. Once the valve has been removed, you will be able to see the sand bed. The best way to remove the sand is to either use a portable wet/dry vacuum or just scoop it out with a small can. Once the old sand has been removed, hose out the inside of the tank to clean the filter out. Once this water is drained, replace the drain cap and fill the tank 2/3 full of water. This is to protect the lateral assembly while the new sand is added. Add the sand slowly till the laterals are fully covered, then just pour in the remaining sand. DO NOT get sand in the vertical pipe sticking up from the bottom of the filter tank. The standpipe may be covered with a paper cup to prevent sand going into the pipe.
• For a side mount tank, rotate the multi-port valve to the closed position and open the filter's drain plug. Remove the tank closure dome and expose the top diffuser. The top diffuser lifts off and the old sand can be removed. The best way to remove the sand is to either use a portable wet/dry vacuum or just scoop it out with a small can. Once the old sand has been removed, hose out the inside of the tank to clean the filter out. Once this water is drained, replace the drain cap and fill the tank 2/3 full of water. This is to protect the lateral assembly while the new sand is added. Add the sand slowly till the laterals are fully covered, then just pour in the remaining sand. DO NOT get sand in the internal piping.

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The vibration is a tiny bit of "water hammer." Previous to your filter change, the water flow was restricted, and therefore incapable of causing water hammer. Now that you've changed the filter, the flow is large enough to cause a little water hammer when you shut off the flow.
How to fix: shut off the flow SLOWLY. Water hammer is caused when the flow of water is shut down quickly. This is just as true with large flows (as in fire engine pump panels), as it is in itsy bitsy
filtered water lines & filter housings.

The problem was you didn't fill the tank with water or added the gravel to fast and now the lateral assembly is broken and letting sand into the pool. You'll need to empty the tank and replace the laterals. Add gravel slowly after you fill the tank half-way with water first.

John

Backwash the filter, drain water from motor etc., remove the dome on the top of the filter. I usually use a shop vac and vac the sand out, not overloading the vac. When all the sand is removed, check the laterals and piping in the filter for cracks, etc. I like to spread washed pea gravel or small rock under the laterals to help support them. Then add about 6 inches of water in the filter. Be sure to get sand of the right grade for a sand filter. Fill it with the recommended amount of sand, smoothing it to keep it level and around all fittings. Do Not fill the filter all the way. There needs to be space between the sand and the top laterals. Close the filter with the dome and be sure to inspect the o-ring on the dome. Put the backwash valve in the backwash position and backwash till clear. Put the valve on "filter" and open the air release valve on the top of the filter to bleed the air and start the pump. The pool may cloud a little but don't worry about it. It will clear as the sand compacts. It is a very labor intensive job...

Try not to add to much. It will explode in your unit.

timing belt slipping?

• Hi: You did your homework and checked everything. You said you checked the water flow to the refrigerator, and it was fine. Although what you described sounds like no or low water flow to the solenoid. I'm referring to the valve the water line is connected to. When they "rattle" it means there is not enough or no water pressure keep them open. These valves usually have a gravel filter. As you say it's a scratch and dent. The filter may clogged with gravel, or mildew (as it sat unused as a scratch and dent for who knows how long.) You sound handy. Before I replace that valve I would remove it and look where the inlet water is attached. Usually there is a screen behind a cap you will have to unscrew the size of an garden hose cap. See if there is a screen that can be cleaned. I'll lind the Sears parts direct page to you with the part no. #10 on the diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=AFD2535DEB&productCategoryId=0161000&brandId=1268&modelName=AMANA-REFRIGERATOR&diagramPageId=00012&componentDescription=CABINET BACK&documentId=M0705005&backToLink=Return to Sub Components list The clogged screen would make the valve vibrate like you described. I hope this helps, Jeff

Remove your hydronic pump and replace the flexible impeller coupling that couples the impeller blades to the pump motor. make sure you don't do this on a sat or, sunday (i hate house calls then) and, be sure you have a new pump housing gasket before you start the job. Also check the unit for loose pipe brackets

Glazed alternator clutch plates? Kind of a ratcheting sound? Common when oil wasn't changed or sitting unused too long.
1. Easy fix - drain oil, remove filter. Add diesel fuel to crankcase. Turn engine over. let sit and drain. Refill with new nonsynthetic oil and replace filter. Warm up. Drain, remove filter. Refill with fresh nonsynthetic oil, and install new filter.
2. Harder, but better. Remove plates and clean or replace them.