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I connected a wire from the remote wire on the head unit (SonyCDX-L600X) and connected it to the Remote on the Basslink and the power on LED lit up, but still no sound from Amp. I turned the Gain back and forth and adjusted the fader to front, center and back, still nothing. I also used RCA splitters as recommended by the owner of the local car audio instalation shop, he said there was no need to splice into the rear speakers and connect them to the speaker level plugs on the Amp, he said just use 2 sets of RCA splitters on the 2 male RCA plugs on the cable coming from the 2 audio out jacks on the head unit and just plug all 4 into the 4 RCA line level input jacks on the Amp and that should be all it takes to get the front and rear speakers into the Amp from just the 2 audio out jacks on the head unit, Well, I did exactly that and still no action???, even tried changing the configuration around, front rear, L/R, nothing, I have no Idea where to go from here. I also noticed a new problem, the right rear speaker channel is very weak even when i go to full rear fader and full right balace, i tested the speaker, it works fine but when i run 2 test leads from the right rear speaker +/- wires directly at the rear of the head unit and connect to a test speaker, the right rear channel is still very weak even at high volume, all other channels are strong. could something have fried that channel. Help with these 2 problems would be greatly appreciated.
Hi. Because the Infinity Basslink is a a self powered enclosed subwoofer Im only aware of the 4 inputs on the amp that you connect to from the 2 rear outputs on the head unit, Ive already tried changing the positions of the 4 RCA plugs going into the amp with no success and tried changing positions on the 2 outputs on the headunit, so im not sure where the output on the Infinity Basslnk would be. Also as to the 2nd part of my question what would cause the right rear channel to suddenly become extreamly weak or die on the head unit.Hi.
Because the Infinity Basslink is a a self powered enclosed subwoofer Im only aware of the 4 inputs on the amp that you connect to from the 2 rear outputs on the head unit, Ive already tried changing the positions of the 4 RCA plugs going into the amp with no success and tried changing positions on the 2 outputs on the headunit, so im not sure where the output on the Infinity Basslnk would be. Also as to the 2nd part of my question what would cause the right rear channel to suddenly become extreamly weak or die on the head unit.
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Sounds like there is a problem with the amp. Try switching the inputs around for that output on the amp. If that does not help, Yes I would have to say that there is a problem with the amp output circuit.
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I would get a test light and see if the remote line is still working. Otherwise, yes you probably fried it. Doesn't take much in car audio to fry an amp.
Hi Bill,
I believe the power problem is related to the Remote wire which should be blue or yellow. The remote wire is suppose the turn the Basslink on and off when the radio is turned on and off. The yellow wire is normally used for power antenna. Traditionally the remote wire is blue.
You can use a Speaker level adapter and splice in with the L/R rear speaker wires, and the adapter will convert the speaker level to line level. The output of the adapter will go to the Rear speaker input on the basslink., Write back if you need more detail on the adapter.
Design: The BassLink brings together a 10" subwoofer (treated paper cone, foam surround), a 10" passive radiator (to increase efficiency and limit distortion), and an extremely efficient, specially designed 200-watt Class D amplifier that work as an integrated system. Special circuitry monitors voice coil position to maintain linearity at high power levels, so you hear loud, clear bass.
Enclosure Type and Materials: The enclosure is made of an acoustically inert polymer which is rigid enough to resist flexing and dampens any resonance.
Servo-Control: The servo-control system continually monitors the performance of the speaker and ensures that the amplifier delivers exactly the right amount of power.
Class D Amplifier: This unit has a built-in 200 watt Class D amplifier which is highly efficient and designed specifically for use with the subwoofer and passive radiator combination.
Auto Turn-On Feature: When the speaker level inputs are used, the system will automatically turn on and off with the radio. Note: The auto turn-on feature does not operate when the preamp level inputs are used, unless the remote turn-on lead is connected.
Low-Pass Crossover: The low-pass crossover frequency can be varied from 50Hz to 120Hz for a seamless transition between the output of this unit and that of the other speakers in the vehicle. The crossover has a slope of 12dB per octave.
Bass Boost: The amplifier includes a continuously adjustable bass boost from -6 to +3dB centered at 40Hz.
Phase Switch: Allows you to select normal or reverse for best bass.
Mounting: You will be able to put BassLink in a variety of in-vehicle locations, thanks to its compact size and mounting feet that enable the rigid polymer box to be mounted vertically or horizontally.
Overview: The BassLink LC allows you to adjust the volume of BassLink powered subwoofer.
Installation: The BassLink LC may be mounted under the dash or may be dismantled and mounted inside the dash for a factory appearance.
Under-dash Mounting: Select a mounting location that allows easy, safe access to the control while driving. The BassLink LC has mounting "ears" to use as a template for drilling pilot holes. Attach screws through the "ears" to secure the BassLink LC to the mounting surface. In-dash Mounting: Disassemble the BassLink LC by removing the Phillips-head screws on the front, rear, and top panels. Remove the bottom and side panels and disengage the RJ11 connector from the back panel. Choose a mounting location that allows easy, safe access to the control, and provides 1-3/4" clearance behind the mounting surface. Drill a 9/32" hole in the mounting surface. Feed the BassLink LC's potentiometer (with the knob removed) through the hold and use the nut provided to hold the control in place. Connecting to BassLink: Route the cable behind the dash or other interior panels and under the carpet. Do not route the cable outside the vehicle. Connect the cable on both ends.
Inputs and Controls
Inputs:
Universal Interface: Front and rear, left and right Universal interface speaker-level inputs (for use with the supplied speaker-level input wiring harnesses) Line Level RCA Inputs: Front and rear, left and right female preamp level inputs +BATT (+12V): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide REM (remote turn-on): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide GND (ground): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide Fuse: There is an installed 20 Amp fuse Remote Gain Control: Phone type jack for included remote gain control
Controls:
Gain Control: Rotary control that sets gain (variable from 250mV to 4V) Crossover Control: Rotary control that sets the low-pass crossover point (variable from 50 to 120Hz) Bass Boost Control: Rotary control that sets bass boost level (variable from -6 to +3dB, centered at 40Hz) Phase Switch: Selects normal or reverse phase (0 or 180 degrees) Power LED: The power LED glows red when the BassLink is on Servo LED: The Servo LED glows green when the servo circuit has determined that the woofer has reached maximum excursion and power to the woofer has been modified to provide maximum performance. The LED should light momentarily during high-level bass transients. Note: Avoid adjustments that cause the LED to remain lit for an extended period of time
One or more of the DC to DC outputs might be bad. Check the /- 54v on the main PCB and the /-15v on the switching controller PCB. Losing one side of the 15v will cause the limit comparator to rail and force the servo protection, even with no input signal.
check to make sure your remote wire is hooked up to your amp turn on that runs straight out of the stereo not your power antenna also make sur you have a clean ground(no paint or rust) and also check your connections make sure you have a strong connection to all wire hook ups.......you should check to see that your remote wire has no tears in it or small rips or cuts because that can interrupt your current to and from the amp and radio
that remote wire has to be hooked up to the power or the radio power antenna wire which will switch the remote wire on when the radio is turned on, so that remote wire really should be hooked to the radio wire that gets power when the radio is turned on , thats why the sub is not turning on
Both issues sound like they are related to a non-connected or loosely connected remote wire on the Basslink.
If you're using RCA preamp wires to connect your stereo to the Basslink, make sure the remote wire input on the Basslink is solidly connected to the stereo's remote output.
If you're using the speaker level inputs on the Basslink and not the RCA preamps, make sure the remote input is not connected, as the Basslink will automatically turn on when it senses the speaker level inputs are active.
check the power cables on the amp and the inputs.isome time when ground cable disconnect the lioghts will light up any way. depending on the way ur vehicle is ground ed .toyota chssis r usually posite un like the norm which is neg.rating please
Other than the +12V, the ground (-) and the 2 RCA inputs, normally external amps have also a remote trigger which switches it to active on. The remote trigger is activated by a wire from the head unit. Colors would either be yellow or blue but depends on manufacturer of head unit. Alternately, you can connect a simple toggle on/off switch to activate the external amp.
Additionally, pls verify that the 2 RCAs from your head unit are audio out and not audio in for aux source.
Hi.
Because the Infinity Basslink is a a self powered enclosed subwoofer Im only aware of the 4 inputs on the amp that you connect to from the 2 rear outputs on the head unit, Ive already tried changing the positions of the 4 RCA plugs going into the amp with no success and tried changing positions on the 2 outputs on the headunit, so im not sure where the output on the Infinity Basslnk would be. Also as to the 2nd part of my question what would cause the right rear channel to suddenly become extreamly weak or die on the head unit.
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