Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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Small leak/drip at on the front side of the washer..

Small leak coming from motor and "white plastic" park attached to it. Is it a gasket?

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Possibly water pump you need to get fix asap cause it could start fire!!! Good Luck!!!!

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

I get a small water leak almost just drips under


when its come from the front of the doors it is gasket prob or else its coming from the tub then oulet is not properly fixed ..

Jun 06, 2010 | Hotpoint Ultima WF860 Front Load Washer

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Drips from center of front cover when filling at 3-4 inches


after carefully reading this, the leak is at the machines water valves, or from them to hose to tub.

Sep 10, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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I have a Kenmore washer 80 series Model 11092582420 and the water is leaking out the bottom . how do I remove the adjitator . so I can repair the gasket


Are you sure its the tub seal? There are several things that can cause the washer to leak out from under the bottom as you described. The water pump can develop leaks and cause similar symptoms. Please check again to verify. If the leak is coming from the front area and leaking out from under the washer, it's usually the water pump, or drain hoses. If the leak is coming from under the tub and leaking out around the front and sides of the washer, its usually a tub seal. For better access, you can remove the washer case to check by following these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Look to the lower right-hand side of the wash tub and make sure the small plastic air hose is still attached to the air dome. If the hose has come loose, snip a small portion off the end and re-insert it on the air dome. These hoses can stretch over time and become loose.

If the hose is still intact, locate the water pump directly in the front of the washer. You will recognize it by the two drain hoses attached to it. These pumps can develop cracks over time and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced. Also check the drain hoses for rips or cracks and make sure the hose clamps are snug.

Last of all, check under the center portion of the washer tub. If the tub seal is bad, you will see water tracks dripping on the top of the gearcase.

To re-install the washer case, follow thse steps:

1. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: If you still want to remove the agitator, simply remove the dispenser cap off the center post and remove the plastic cap underneath. There should be a 9/16 bolt underneath that you can loosen with a socket and ratchet. With the bolt removed, the agitator simply lifts off by grasping the bottom flanges and lifting up.

May 10, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

LG WM-2277HB washer does not drain and make rattling noise.


I would guess that the impeller has come off the pump motor shaft. You can disassemble and push it back on, but it will come off again. I don't know if some type of adhesive would work, but I just replace the pump motor.
Drain water from small drain hose (or by removing filter) Remove the screw in the plastic recess by the filter, then use a putty knife on the left or right side to pop out the recess. Remove two more screws holding pump body to front frame of washer. Pull washer about 18 inches away from wall and tilt it back to lean against wall to allow access to the pump through the large rectangular hole in the base of the washer. There is a plastic locking tab holding the pump body to the plastic washer base, but don't worry if you break that, as the screws (removed earlier) will hold the pump back on just fine. Pump motor is held onto pump body with three more screws. Replace pump motor with a new one and reassemble. On a difficulty scale of 1 -10, this one might rate a 4.5 or a 5. Not too bad.

Leaking is rarely, if ever, caused by the drain pump. Small leaks can come from using too much soap, which backs up in the dispenser area and leaks down inside the machine, or larger leaks from a cut in the door gasket.

Apr 04, 2009 | LG WM2277HBW XL Front Load Stackable...

1 Answer

Leaking from front bottom at white plastic box attached to motor


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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Mar 22, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

A small drip on front side where water comes out of machine


thats your pump. if it leaks all you can do is replace to solve problem.thats the white resvoir looking thing,its a pump

Jan 10, 2009 | Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

GWL11 Burned Up?!?!


Go and look at my issue on Eco Smart that won't drain.

Unplug washer. Bail out water as much as you can. Look for water dripping in black motor area. If you find that, read on to see if this is your issue.

You can take off black motor/white housing all in one piece. On mine, water was dripping from white plastic housing and onto motor. had small amt of water leak out, then wouldn't run at all and smelled like electrical issue. Look for white chip on upper rim of that white plastic housing where it attaches to machine bottom. Push in on clip, and give the whole white plastic thing a twist and it comes off--motor and white plastic. Unhook electric couplers.

You either have 120V or 240V (mine is older GWL10US model) unit. White plastic and black motor are one unit when ordered. Save yourself the service call that I paid. Good luck!

Oct 20, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Water Leaking from pre-wash and main wash cold water solenoid


We had the small leak problem. It was a cut in the bellows at the door. Lower side. We could see it if we just spread the gasket just inside the door.

Jul 14, 2008 | LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

4 Answers

Water leaking from bottom of door during wash cycle


this will more likely be your door seal open the door pull your seal so u can see inside and feel around as u look u will more than likely find a hole the water looks like it comes from somewhere else but it will be from the hole in the door seal seen this with hundreds of washers m8

Aug 26, 2007 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer

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