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no idea as to the wattage used in your house as it varies with the equipment
you have to go around and add all of the wattages in use your self ---lights each, fridge , freezer , stove , fans each , air conditioners each, toaster , microwave etc and add then all up that will show the total wattage in use for the house
then you can put that in your supply meter
The output of the generator is listed as a constant voltage and a maximum current or wattage - that could also be thought of as capacity.
Typically, it would be rated for 120 or 120/240 volts for generators sold in North America and the wattage could be as low as 3,000 - 5,000 to substantially more than that. If you were to look at the watts or amps while a connected light bulb were turned on, you would see the voltage stay at 120V, but the amps would go from 0 to .833 Amps - and the wattage from 0 to 100 (assuming a 100 W bulb). Next, connect a toaster - again the voltage stays at 120, but the amps and wattage would jump from .833A and 100W to 8 or 9 amps and 1100 watts. As soon as the toast was done - the amps and wattage would drop back to .833A and 100W. The same could hold true for a well pump or air conditioner that is connected to the generator.. these devices turn on and off automatically as determined by a pressure switch or thermostat. Seeing a wattage or current that fluctuates is normal as the amount of power needed from the generator changes as the devices turn on and off by them selves.
Also, it is not unusual for motor operated devices to draw 2 or 3 times as much amps or wattage during the first few seconds when starting as opposed to what it uses when running.
There's little to be found on the internet for this model oven now. There should be a name plate / manufacturer's sticker either inside the door - on the jamb; or on the rear near the power cord. If you see a rating given as "120VAC / 1200W" this would indicate INPUT wattage, which would be higher than the amount used for cooking. A typical 1200W rated microwave might have 800 - 1000 Watts of cooking power. If there are 2 ratings for wattage like 120V / 1200W / 850W; the 850 Watts is the amount of cooking power. The cooking power - or wattage - is always lower than the total wattage. If you see a rating somewhere that indicates 900W cooking power, then that would be the cooking power of the oven.
If you're not satisfied or unsure about the information you're finding on the oven - or it is missing - you might want to contact Magic Chef Customer Service Department at (888) 775-0202. They should be able to help you - or pint you in the right direction.
For starters, "..worked fine, for a few minutes." sounds like a current overload issue. Is the headlight wattage greater than the wattage of the bulb(s) you are replacing? If so, you're asking for trouble; the least being burnt wires and circuits. Worst case would be a fire.
Assuming you're within wattage specs and assuming you've checked fuses, it's a matter of using a test light working backwards from the headlight ( if you have power to the headlight but light does not work, you either have a bad bulb or it is not getting "grounded").
You need to buy a power converter to be able to do this. check the wattage requirement for your dryer then get yourself a power converter with the same wattage or higher. Usually, dyers consume around 1000 to 1500 watts.. so you probably need to get yourself a 1500 watt power converter or AVR (automatic voltage regulator) AVRs usually has 220v and 120v sockets...