Question about RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Posted by Anonymous on
Bad TP valve?
Posted on Oct 25, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most likely only one of the pipes is leaking but weaping enough to cover the top and indented places near both inlet and outlet. This leak has most likely penetrated all the insulation and is a problem throughout the tank wrap insulation...If you are able to blow air continuously long enough to determine which connection is leaking then fix it. It will likely to take quite a while to dry out all the insulation if the water has migrated down into the tank wrap... If you determine that the insulation is waterlogged, you may be able to drill several small holes in the external cover.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
it might be hard water in the heater. the hard water flakes and when your water heater turns on it creates some movement in those hard water flakes and makes a popping and hissing noise then when it comes to temperature it should stop. the temperature and pressure relief valve shouldn't make this noise. but if you stick your finger in the pipe and it is wet then you might have problems some where else. let me know if it is
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
1) Shut the breaker off to it at the panel. 2) Hook a hose up to it (the bottom has a drain). 3) Close the valve to the water heater (on the cold water supply). 4) Open drain on the bottom of water heater. 5) Open the relief valve to allow air into the tank (it won't drain otherwise - think if you put your finger on one end of a straw - the liquid stays in until you let go). Why are you draining it by the way?
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
In my first 15 years as a plumber I never saw a pilot light issue on a gas WH that a new thermocouple didn't fix. Since the government mandated a redesign of the fire box, I've seen three that nothing ever fixed - two Whirlpools and one (my usually ultrareliable) AO Smith - including replacing the entire burner assembly and the regulator. And I've heard of many others.
Check the thermocouple connection for tight. (Don't strip.. threaded soft metals.)
Check the microvents on the bottom ? of the burn box for dust, even if it is new.
Call Reliant and demand new units until you get one that works.
Try another model. Consider a 52gal electric.
I've always recommended gas over electric, and AO Smith and Rheem were my recommendations (and "Reliants" were "lumber yard" water heaters. Sorry.)
Since the mandated redesigns, I don't really have a "proven reliable" model to suggest. I increasingly believe the restricted air flow design is the ultimate culprit, including any changes to the thermocouple/regulator construct to accommodate the restricted air flow design. Just my hunch.
Offered for what its worth. -- plumber in Indiana.
Posted on Jan 11, 2011
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