Question about Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

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Oven not heating KitchenAid KERC506HWH3

The oven does not heat. Everything on the range works including the display. When you turn on the oven you can hear clicking noises but it will not activate the heating elements. I tried all the combinations of convection, bake, preheat and broil. Is this a problem with the oven sensor or the control panel? How do I tell? How do I test the sensor to see if it is working? I have a 2006 electric Frigidare oven that will not heat up the burners on top work and when I turn the oven on it looks like it is working on the display but it will not heat up I can try to turn on self cleaning and the door will lock but it still will not heat up same thing with the boiler wont heat up at all in oven. I just used it fine the night before. Can some one help me figure out how to fix this?

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  • rssssgirl Nov 15, 2007

    Everything works but oven will not heat. Door will lock, oven clicks like it is working but nothing happens. HELP!!! FEF365BWG

  • Anonymous Dec 19, 2007

    Same problem exactly- all functions seem to work but no heat!

  • Torgy Dec 23, 2007

    I have the same thing happening as the aother person: IE

    The oven does not heat. Everything on the range works including the display. When you turn on the oven you can hear clicking noises but it will not activate the heating elements. I tried all the combinations of convection, bake, preheat and broil. Is this a problem with the oven sensor or the control panel?

    How do I tell?

    How do I test the sensor to see if it is working?

    On my Gallery Series I did notice the bottom heating element on the right hand side was touching the oven bottom floor enamel and appears to have worn through, possibly grounding out the burner or causing control board damage.

    Do you think a new bottom oven element is required ?

    Since the broiler element doesn't work either, but everything else, the problem just may be in the controller board.

    How much are those suckers and can I install/replace one myself ?

    Thanks for a quick reply as my wife is suppost to be cooking Christmas Dinner today.

  • Anonymous Feb 10, 2008

    I have exactlly the same problem. 

  • Anonymous Apr 04, 2008

    My oven will not heat. The display and burners work, but the oven will not heat up. I used it the night before with no problems...

  • simbacat9 Aug 21, 2008

    The oven went off and the light went of too, but the display timer clock still flashes on. I was moving the fridge which is near the switch but I hadn't knocked it off by mistake. I've tried everything put fuse box on and off and still not working

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Hi,
I have a one year and 2 month old KitchenAid KEMC308KSS03 Wall oven/microwave combination.
After a self cleaning cycle the oven would not heat again. Eveything else works fine the microwave, controls, etc.
The problem is the thermal limiter switch that KitchenAid used. It is a one shot thermal limiter that opens if the back of the oven goes above 120degrees C and does not reset when it cools down.
The KitchenAid PN is 9759243 BUT don't replace it with the same part if you have this problem. KitchenAid want $84 for this silly thing and it a piece of junk. Buy a PN 317-1368-ND from DigiKey Inc. 1-800-344-4539. This is a 120 degree C thermal limit switch but it will RESET itself when the oven cools down so if it happens again you won't have to pull the oven. This part cost s $6.60 from DigiKey and is a much better part than the original one from KitchenAid.
The switch is on the back of the lower oven, there is a cover that comes off and you will see it screwed to the back with two wires connected to it with faston terminals. It is an easy permanent fix for this problem.
KitchenAid is ABSOLUTELY NO HELP with this (as ususal).
I hope this helps.
Herald

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

  • Chris Goulet Oct 22, 2011

    Do not use the Digikey 317-1368-ND thermostat as mentioned above because it's only rated to 10A at 250VAC, but the range needs a 25A thermostat. See solution by Chris Goulet for correct thermostat.

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There is a very high likelihood that your problem is caused by a bad relay (switch) on your EOC aka: clock. The other posibility is that there's an open thermostat on your range somewhere that's been tripped by a high heat condition. If this problem happened right after you ran a self clean cycle you've probably tripped a thermostat which can be reset if it has a button on the back and you can find it. If not you could replace the EOC (Electronic Oven Control). These can be quite costly but if you look it up and it's cheap you could try changing it yourself. It's usually pretty simple. A few screws to remove the back panel and them a few more holding the EOC in place. Just make sure the power is off and you mark the wire locations.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

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I've got a Bosch oven and had the same problem.

I found that the thermostat might be to blame. In my case it was very simple - I opened up the back, and where the thermostat connects with wires, there was a little reset switch - and all I needed to do was push it in to reset, and it worked fine again.

I think it's a little protection device that activates when the temperature exceeds the thermostat's working capacity.

(I used to joke to friends that this is the button they put in so that technicians can simply reset and then charge you for the labour!)

Hope this helps some of you, if not everyone - just a pity that I only found this website today, and not in time for your Christmas dinners!

Bruce

Posted on Jan 24, 2008

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Asdfdasf

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

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There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel. 

Selco part# SES-L250 specs:

Surface Mount
3/4 in. disc
120/240 VAC
25 A
SPDT
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F

Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/surface-mount-automatic-reset-open-on-rise/pn-5113?&seo=110
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php

and online at

Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com


If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:

1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.

2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.

3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.

4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel. 

Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:

Supco L240
Info: http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/2009%20HVAC%20Caralog/2009%20Catalog%20for%20Web2.pdf
Available: http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/supco/crossref/thermostats2.html

Selco SE-L240
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/ts-3-4-disc-se-series-airstream-mount-open-on-rise/pn-5096?&seo=110

White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Info: http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0092.pdf

General Electric LS2-240


Note: Do not use the Digikey 317-1368-ND thermostat as mentioned in another solution because it's only rated to 10A at 250VAC, but the range needs a 25A thermostat.

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

  • Chris Goulet Nov 08, 2009

    White-Rodgers 3L01-230
    Available: eBay store: Store: Patriot-Supply

  • Chris Goulet Oct 22, 2011

    Do not use the Digikey 317-1368-ND thermostat mentioned above because it's only rated to 10A at 250VAC, but the range needs a 25A thermostat. See solution by Chris Goulet for correct thermostat.

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Does anybody have any solutions??

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

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Hi On my Kenmore range model 0880 6395 39J2 i think i have the same problem! i looked for burnt wires didnt see any! any chance it could be the prheat sensor?

Posted on Dec 23, 2007

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Check for 22o volts at terminal block on range. Also look for burned wires there.

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: KitchenAid KERC506HWH3

Change the element?

Posted on Jun 13, 2007

  • 183 Answers

SOURCE: Oven not heating KitchenAid KERC506HWH3

if this cooker is fitted with a clock check that it is not set to delay start mode(auto) if it is reset clock and this will resolve problem

Posted on Jul 28, 2007

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