Question about Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range
The oven does not heat. Everything on the range works including the display. When you turn on the oven you can hear clicking noises but it will not activate the heating elements. I tried all the combinations of convection, bake, preheat and broil. Is this a problem with the oven sensor or the control panel? How do I tell? How do I test the sensor to see if it is working? I have a 2006 electric Frigidare oven that will not heat up the burners on top work and when I turn the oven on it looks like it is working on the display but it will not heat up I can try to turn on self cleaning and the door will lock but it still will not heat up same thing with the boiler wont heat up at all in oven. I just used it fine the night before. Can some one help me figure out how to fix this?
I have a one year and 2 month old KitchenAid KEMC308KSS03 Wall oven/microwave combination.
After a self cleaning cycle the oven would not heat again. Eveything else works fine the microwave, controls, etc.
The problem is the thermal limiter switch that KitchenAid used. It is a one shot thermal limiter that opens if the back of the oven goes above 120degrees C and does not reset when it cools down.
The KitchenAid PN is 9759243 BUT don't replace it with the same part if you have this problem. KitchenAid want $84 for this silly thing and it a piece of junk. Buy a PN 317-1368-ND from DigiKey Inc. 1-800-344-4539. This is a 120 degree C thermal limit switch but it will RESET itself when the oven cools down so if it happens again you won't have to pull the oven. This part cost s $6.60 from DigiKey and is a much better part than the original one from KitchenAid.
The switch is on the back of the lower oven, there is a cover that comes off and you will see it screwed to the back with two wires connected to it with faston terminals. It is an easy permanent fix for this problem.
KitchenAid is ABSOLUTELY NO HELP with this (as ususal).
I hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 21, 2008
There is a very high likelihood that your problem is caused by a bad relay (switch) on your EOC aka: clock. The other posibility is that there's an open thermostat on your range somewhere that's been tripped by a high heat condition. If this problem happened right after you ran a self clean cycle you've probably tripped a thermostat which can be reset if it has a button on the back and you can find it. If not you could replace the EOC (Electronic Oven Control). These can be quite costly but if you look it up and it's cheap you could try changing it yourself. It's usually pretty simple. A few screws to remove the back panel and them a few more holding the EOC in place. Just make sure the power is off and you mark the wire locations.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
I've got a Bosch oven and had the same problem.
I found that the thermostat might be to blame. In my case it was very simple - I opened up the back, and where the thermostat connects with wires, there was a little reset switch - and all I needed to do was push it in to reset, and it worked fine again.
I think it's a little protection device that activates when the temperature exceeds the thermostat's working capacity.
(I used to joke to friends that this is the button they put in so that technicians can simply reset and then charge you for the labour!)
Hope this helps some of you, if not everyone - just a pity that I only found this website today, and not in time for your Christmas dinners!
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Selco part# SES-L250 specs:
3/4 in. disc
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php
and online at
Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com
If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:
1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.
2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.
3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.
4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:
General Electric LS2-240
Note: Do not use the Digikey 317-1368-ND thermostat as mentioned in another solution because it's only rated to 10A at 250VAC, but the range needs a 25A thermostat.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
Does anybody have any solutions??
Posted on Feb 22, 2008
Hi On my Kenmore range model 0880 6395 39J2 i think i have the same problem! i looked for burnt wires didnt see any! any chance it could be the prheat sensor?
Posted on Dec 23, 2007
Check for 22o volts at terminal block on range. Also look for burned wires there.
Posted on Nov 04, 2007
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if this cooker is fitted with a clock check that it is not set to delay start mode(auto) if it is reset clock and this will resolve problem
Posted on Jul 28, 2007
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 29, 2017 | KitchenAid Kitchen Ranges
Dec 09, 2013 | KitchenAid KIRS608BSS Induction Electric...
Apr 30, 2009 | KitchenAid KESS907SSS Electric Kitchen...
Apr 23, 2009 | Frigidaire FEB27T5D Electric Double Oven
Dec 22, 2008 | KitchenAid KDRP463LSS Dual Fuel (Electric...
May 25, 2008 | Frigidaire PLEB30T8A Electric Double Oven
Dec 21, 2007 | Kitchen Ranges
Nov 16, 2007 | Kitchen Ranges
4,280 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: