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Replace the roller bearing on mantisworm shaft

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I posted this same procedure in a reply to this post:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2127031-tine_shaft_removal_mantis_2_cycle_tiller



Follow the procedure for removing the worm gear shaft by removing the retaining ring at the bottom of the housing and extracting the worm shaft and other associated parts, Adding heat to the bottom of the housing to expand the hole will help the removal of the #458 roller bearing - with the housing in a vise, tap on the top of the worm shaft through the top hole of the housing with a punch or rod smaller than 1/2" in diameter. Then remove all grease from the housing - to eliminate the remaining roller bearing pieces that may reside in that grease. After total teardown and cleaning place the worm gear housing in a vise apply heat with a propane torch to the outside of the worm gear housing in the vicinity of the beaing location. Applying heat to this area will make the housing expand and make it easier to remove the remnants of the old bearing. With the housing still hot, take a punch or piece of 1/4" steel rod and insert it from the top hole, where the drive shaft goes in, there is a large ridge in the cast housing that the bearing mates against and immediately past that the bearing body will protrude just a little more into the cavity, with the rod against the bearing body gently and rapidly tap on the rod. You can look into the other side through the housing cover opening to be sure you are on the bearing and not the cast metal ridge. I just replaced that bearing this morning, be careful putting the new one in as well, they can be damaged very easily if you don't apply even pressure.

Posted on Jun 06, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a whirlpool gas dryer. One of the drum rollers keep getting shredded and breaking only after a couple of hours of use. I have now replaced both drum rollers 5 times in the last 6 weeks.


Did you lube the bearing surfaces of the new rollers with a good lube? Is the shaft surface for the bearing smooth? Do the new rollers wobble on the shaft (very bad)? Do your have the drum on straight and is it riding on the felt surface in front ok? Do the rollers turn easily after you install them or are they jammed up for some reason? What does the surface on the drum where the rollers ride look like? Does the idler pulley for the belt hold the belt steady in the correct place on the drum or does it wobble around? I have serviced these rollers on many occasions and they last a long time. The felt in front should be both in front of the drum and reach across the outer front edge of the drum. Sometimes it get all bunched up at one spot in front of the drum without wrapping around the outside too. I put the bottom in first and then use a J shaped piece of bent tin to guide it in on top where I can't see it.

Dec 12, 2015 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Why does the transmission click when I turn the counter shaft


this indicates either a bit missing from a tooth of a gear, or a failed bearing cage (roller ball bearings) or needle rollers
Some gear box construction use needle rollers running on a solid shaft from one end of the box to the other and some boxes use ball bearings on the ends of the counter shafts. There are needle rollers in the end of the clutch (input shaft) as well

Sep 28, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

LG Dryer 3828el3003b. Very squeeky noise when dryer is running. Could it be the drum rollers and how can I fix them?


Place heave grease on shaft of roller wheeles or replace the rollers.
There might also be bearings at the back of the drums. If they are there they will also leak. Spray grease on theses roller shafts to see if the noise go away.

Oct 18, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag ensignia


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you


Drive Motor

The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer stops the motor might be defective. If the dryer stops and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. Also try rotating the drum by hand with the belt off, it should rotate freely. If the drum doesn't turn freely, determine what is causing it to bind. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the drum turns freely and the blower wheel is clear, and yet the dryer still keeps stopping mid-cycle the motor may be defective. it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.


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Drum Roller Axle

This dryer has drum support rollers. There will always be two supporting the rear of the drum, and on some models there may be two supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the roller axles are worn out the rollers may not spin freely which can overload the motor and the dryer stops. If the dryer stops mid-cycle, remove the belt and spin the drum, it should spin freely. If not, check the rollers and roller shafts.


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Drum Roller

This dryer has drum support rollers. There will always be two supporting the rear of the drum, and on some models there may be two supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If they are worn out or start binding the motor can get overloaded and the dryer stops. If the dryer stops mid-cycle, check to be sure the drum turns freely with the belt removed. If not, check the rollers. Do not lubricate the rollers or roller shaft, lubrication will attract lint and cause the roller bearings to wear out faster. If the rollers don't turn freely, replace them. The roller shaft can often be reused, unless it has worn down. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.


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Drum Support Roller & Axle

This dryer has drum support rollers.There will always be two supporting the rear of the drum and on some models there may be two supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the roller axles are worn out the rollers may not spin freely. If not, check the rollers and rollers shafts. If they are worn or do not turn freely they will need to be replaced.


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Drum Slide, Glide, or Pad

The front of the dryer drum is supported by small pieces of plastic-like material. As the drum rotates, it slides on these plastic pieces. If the dryer stops mid-cycle, it may be that one or more of these plastic slides or glides has worn out. When they wear out the drum can start binding and put strain on the motor. The motor then shuts down and the dryer stops. Check the glides for wear and replace as needed.


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Drum Bearing

The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time this bearing will wear out and may cause several different problems. If the dryer stops during the cycle it may be that this drum bearing has worn out and is putting too much strain on the motor. If the belt is removed and the drum spins freely, the drum bearing is probably not worn out. If the drum bearing is worn out, there may be some grinding or squealing, and the drum will be hard to turn.


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Drum Support Bearing

This dryer has drum support rollers. There will always be two supporting the rear of the drum, and on some models there may be two supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If they are worn out or start binding the motor can get overloaded and the dryer stops. If the dryer stops mid-cycle, check to be sure the drum turns freely with the belt removed. If not, check the rollers. Do not lubricate the rollers or roller shaft, lubrication will attract lint and cause the roller bearings to wear out faster. If the rollers don't turn freely, replace them. The roller shaft can often be reused, unless it has worn down. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.


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Dryness Control Board

The dryness control board shuts off the dryer when the clothes have reached the level of dryness selected by the user. If the dryer stops too early, the dryness control board might be defective. This is not very common and other possibilities should be checked first.

Jul 21, 2013 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

I have disassembled a three speed transmission from a 1965 6 cyl Mustang. I found a handful of roller bearings in the bottom of the case. I find nowhere they might have come from. Both of the shaft...


These bearings are end of shafts support as rollers can take a higher load than ball type, check both housing,s and the ends all shafts good luck.

Feb 16, 2011 | 1965 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Machine rocks, all four sides, removed and oiled clutch bearings, tightened the belt, still rocks and errors out no matter the size load, machine is balanced. ?


I feel you still have a clutch problem... Did you try this test before you cleaned up and re-lubed the One-Way Roller clutches in the Clutch pulley?

From my Clutch Fix post;

Let's demystify dC and uC error codes plaguing the FAV6800A and the LCD Flavor FAV9800A

One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.

Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate.


Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.

The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction.


Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.

Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.


The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. If the TDS was not working as designed the machine would walk across the room and unplug itself or self-destruct.


The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. I believe the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. "unbalance condition?" or something like that.

Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A very poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day.

I call this the Spinner Shaft Coupler. Not sure what Maytag calls it.

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This is the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.

While holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CW Wash/Agitate direction with your other hand. It should rotate freely in the CW direction around Spinner Shaft Coupler.

Now rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CCW direction the Spin Cycle direction. It should lock up and not rotate CCW around the Spinner Shaft Coupler. If it does the tumblers will rotate slightly and cause the wash basket load to go off balance as the wash basket spins up.

If the TDS is working as designed the machine will fail in Spin Cycle with dC or uC error codes. If the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing can be cleaned up and re-lubed you could be back in service with no cost.


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If so what were the results?.................Rich

Oct 21, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Lost manual on vacum need to replace belt


Remove the bottom cover of the sweeper head, then remove the brush roller along with the belt if still there. Clean the brush end-bearings--the roller ends and the interior of the bushings. Then oil the bearings lightly with 3-1 oil or similar. Place the new belt over the roller and the motor shaft adding any required belt twist (diagram on the casting), then seat the roller and bearings as a unit. Replace the cover and test the roller for running. Hope this helps!

Oct 08, 2010 | Eureka Altima Upright Vacuum Model 2996AVS...

1 Answer

Had a service call 7 months ago on 16 year old Maytag Stack w/d to lubricate drum roller that was squeaking. Squeak has returned. Any pointers on lubricating it myself, or is it worth replacing the drum...


Lubricating the bearings is usually only a temporary "quike fix".

Replace the bearings,and lubricate the bearing shafts with a lithium grease.

Mar 04, 2010 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Squeaks & takes longer to dry


The squeaks are normally a sign of dry drum roller bearings. You either need to lube the shaft and bearing of the roller or replace the roller completely.
The drying problem sounds like you have a least one bad thermostat, need to check and replace the faulty thermostat

Sep 22, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Roller and Belt


I have had this vacuum for about 5 years now. You need to change the belt every 6 months. Walmart sells a bag of 3 replacement belts.

May 27, 2008 | GE 106766 Bagged Canister Vacuum

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