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Where do I find the heating element in a Kenmore 70 series dryer model 110.96575100

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My Kenmore series 70 won't heat. I have a meter to go in and check to see what the actual problem is. I watched a video on how to check all of the heating element stuff but it was on a series 90. How do I access the parts since my front of the dryer does not have that bottom part you can remove to get to the heat elements?

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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The part number you will need is 279838 and you can get that at whirlpoolpartssurplus.com

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Kenmore 70 series dryer works but no heat

check your power if one leg is down eg 110 to the motor drier will run but not heat if the heater is getting 110 but not the motor drier will do nothing check for a partial tripped breaker eg one side tripped but not fully just turn off and reset check outlet for 220 check power cord at terminal block for loose or burned cord unplug first lol if cord is burned just means it was loose when in stalled most of the time this promb is elec.

Posted on Dec 29, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series Dryer Won't Heat

won't heat. fuse good,breaker good,heating element test ok. How do I check the thermostate, and timer.

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat

The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

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I'm not familiar with your dryer model but general advice regarding dryers with the problem that you have described would be to ensure that any filter on the outlet is clean, whether it be a condenser or traditional external vent.

Ensure, if it is vented rather than condensing (only connected to a drain) that the vent tube has clear access to expel the damp air circulated during the drying process.

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