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How can i get a schematic diagram on how to remove blower wheel for rs arp 1000es

Need to replace lower blower wheel

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My Royal SovereignARP-3012 lower blower fan wheel broke

This is a difficult repair and no easy cake at all. The one internal part you can order from Royal Sovereign is the lower blower wheel. Perhaps this is because it breaks easily. Begin by draining the unit by removing the rubber plug at lower left. Remove 14 (count them) from the back. Remove additional positioning screws that hold the case side to the metal frame. Take out the two screws on the underside of the outer casing. Unclip the plastic tie that holds a temperature sensor to the rear radiator, and remove the the sensor gently. Spread the casing gently apart and push it away from the chassis a few inches. Reach into the front and unplug the three electronic connectors that link the display panel to the chassis. Note that the two leads that go to the lower part of the chassis go into positions 1 and 3 - the middle connector is not used. Now remove the casing entirely. Take a photo on all sides for reference and get some masking tape ready. You will see an upper blower casing and a lower blower casing, around which are arranged the condenser and two radiators, held in place by four press-formed metal chassis frames and two plastic chassis supports. Do not proceed until you mark where all the screws into the metal supports go. Failure to do this may end up with putting chassis support screws into holes meant for the back panel, making it impossible to reassemble the outer casing. Remove the grounding wire on the right side facing the rear. Tape the screws to the chassis part and note the color of the leads. Mark the location of the screw so you do not put it in wrong place on re-assembly. Do the same with the double green and yellow wires connected to the other side. Disassemble the bracket holding the white metal electrical condenser, noting carefully how the bracket is designed to clamp the condenser in place. Remove all the screws holding all four corner chassis supports, and mark exactly where the screws go. Stick these screws to a piece of tape and label it. Remove all screws holding the upper plastic chassis frame, marking screw locations carefully. Note that some of these screws hold the upper blower casing in place. Stick these screws to another piece of tape and label it. Working from the rear, and using a long phillips head screwdriver, remove two screws that hold the base of the upper blower assembly. Check gently to see if the assembly is now loosened and can be lifted but do not lift it yet. Remove any other screws that impede. Remove the uper chassis support carefully. This is a tricky move, take your time. Remove the tape that holds wiring on the middle plastic chassis support member and put it somewhere you can get it again, you will need it on reassembly. Once the upper blower assembly is removable, lift it EXACTLY vertically to clear the cleats at the base, then carefully rotate it towards you and place it upside down in front of the unit. There is just enough wire to allow you to do this. Remove and tape screws as needed to liberate the middle chassis support member. Remove and tape the two screws that hold the lower blower casing to the deck chassis support. This is where it gets tricky. Remove the middle chassis support but be very careful to support the upper radiator as you do so. Remove and record the location of any other screws that hold the lower blower casing. Tip the upper radiator as little as possible to allow the lower blower casing to be lifted up out of the chassis floor, and out to the side. tis is a difficult move and it is easy to damage the fins of the radiators. Remove the front of the lower blower casing, and remove the blown-up old wheel. Put the new blower wheel onto the motor shaft and make DAMN sure the nut is on tight. Otherwise the wheel will slowly travel up the shaft, rub against the radiator in front and you will have to do it all over again. Reassemble in reverse order. When you re-connect the wiring of the outer casing, be sure to connect the lower wires in front into positions 1 and 3, leaving the center blade open. You will be glad you recorded the exact location of every screw, trust me. It took me seven days to figure this out, even after worming out the service manual and an exploded view from the company (both useless for this repair except for debugging misplaced electrical connections). Easy cake indeed.

Posted on Jun 25, 2010

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SOURCE: I have a Royal Sovereign

High humidity - keep doors and windows closed as much as possible to eliminate introducing humidity.

Posted on Sep 23, 2010

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I have Royal Sovereign ARP-1000ES Portable Air Conditioner. Last a few days, it shut off When running with cool mode.(no problem with dehumidify or fan mode) I checked water tank, but it's empty. Please...


It is supposed to shut off when the room meets the temperature you set it for. Are you saying it shuts off before the room cools to the temp you set it for?
What do you mean "..last a few days...?" Is it new only a few days and then break?
Be clearer if you need help.

Oct 18, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

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Window kit for RS ARP-9411


I assume you are looking for the window kit for ARP-9411 Portable Air Conditioner. If so, contact
Royal Sovereign Customer Support 1-800-397-1025 .

Hope this helps you & thanks for choosing FixYa.

Aug 19, 2011 | Royal Sovereign ARP-1000EX Portable Air...

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Replacing AC blower motor


ITS CALLED SURGERY take picture as ya go and have a big bucket for screws. make sure you have your motor and capacitor tested first before you replace it unless you know its bad (hp,sf &rpm must match !!!! on new motor ) little guys are real expensive and are a three speed motor and must be hooked up right or you will burn it UP ! do this in the shade cuz it aint no fun in the hot sun(me Florida) the first thing i would do is oil the motor then have the capacitor checked , the motor may not need to be replaced just serviced ?.. hay now if'n i was any help write a review of thanks or just VOTE,, MOTORWIZJ ..FL

May 28, 2010 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

1 Answer

How easy or much time it take to change a front blower fan on a 2001 grand caravan and can it be done at home?


It is easy and takes about 1-hour to change out.
However, before rushing to the conclusion that the Blower Motor is bad....
1. Does the Blower work on High (or #4) only? If so then it is not the Motor it is the Resistor which is located behind the Glove box, mounted onto/into the Fire Wall. Follow step #a. below and take out the Glove Box to access. It measures approximately 3 1/2 inches wide by 1 1/2 inches high, and has 3 to 4 wires going into it.
2. Have you already checked and/or replaced the Front Blower Motor Relay located in the Fuse and Relay Center. If not you should do this first before anything. However if the Blower does only work on High then this Relay is good and you should only replace the Resistor Only.
I am very convinced that it is either the Relay the Resistor as these fail far more times than the Motor.
a. Disconnect the Negative Cable from the Battery and wait at least two (2) minutes to deactivate the Airbag Sensors.
b. Remove the Glove Box.
c. Disconnect the Electrical Connection.
d. Remove the two (2) screws holding the Air Housing to Lower Air Intake Housing.
e. Remove the two (2) screws holding the Recirculation Door Actuator.
f. Disconnect the wire harness from the clips holding them onto the Lower Intake Housing.
g. Remove the three (3) screws holding the Lower Air Intake Housing to the Lower half of the Evaporator Housing.
h. Push the rubber grommet of the blower motor wires throught the hole in the Lower Air Intake Housing.
i. Remove the Lower Air Intake Housing from the Evaporator Housing and Upper Air Intake Housing.
j. Manipulate the Recirculation Door to have access to the three (3) screws holding the Blower Motor to the Blower Housing in the bottom of the Evaporator Housing.
k. Gently bend the Recirculation Door so that you can remove the Blower Motor and Blower Wheel from the Blower Housing.
l. Remove the Blower Motor and Blower Wheel.
Some Blower Motors do not come with the Blower Wheel. Remove the retaining clip from the Shaft of the Blower Wheel and remove the Wheel off the Shaft.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Jan 18, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan

4 Answers

I need to replace a heater blower motor on a 2004 chrysler pacifica and picture schematics etc;


  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the passenger side cowl trim panel. See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Trim Panel\Service and Repair\Cowl Trim
  3. Pull back the carpet to access the front upper screw that secures the air inlet housing.
  4. Remove the recirculation door actuator.
  5. Remove the recirculation door actuator wire lead from the routing clip located on the lower air inlet housing and position the wire lead aside.
  6. Disconnect the blower motor wire lead connector from the blower motor resistor or power module, depending on application.

118348823 Lower Air Inlet Housing

  1. Remove the one screw (from the top) that secures the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing.
  2. Remove the four screws (from the bottom) that secure the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing and remove the lower HVAC housing.

118348824 Blower Motor Wire Lead Grommet

  1. Push the rubber blower motor wire lead grommet through the opening in the lower air inlet housing.
  2. Feed the blower motor wire lead through the opening in the lower air inlet housing and remove the lower air inlet housing from the vehicle.
  3. Position the recirculation-air door as necessary to access and remove the three screws that secure the blower motor to the lower half of the HVAC housing.
  4. Gently flex the recirculation air door far down enough to remove the blower motor and wheel from the HVAC housing.

118348825 Blower Motor Mounting Tabs

  1. Remove the blower motor and wheel from the HVAC housing. Note the position of the blower motor mounting tabs.
INSTALLATION

  1. Position the blower motor and wheel to the lower half of the HVAC housing. Align the blower motor mounting tabs to the correct location on the HVAC housing.
  2. Gently flex the recirculation-air door far down enough to install the blower motor and
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Dec 02, 2009 | 2004 Chrysler Pacifica

1 Answer

KA dryer has been running without a lint filter. Other owner. I need to know how to take off the front and back panal to clean inside due to fire hazzard. Mdl # KGYE800TWHO . Need schematic drawing. I am...


Disconnect Power. Lift Cover on lint filter. Remove two Phillips screws taking care NOT to allow them to fall into the blower housing. Next, place a putty knife in the space between the upper and lower panel at the front of the dryer about 4 inches in from either side to push up the retaining clips while pulling on the lower panel. This will release the lower panel and give you full access to all the main components and most internal areas needing cleaning.

The only area affected by running with no lint filter is accessed by removing the rear panel. With rear off, the filter housing on the left will have several 5/16" hex head screws to be removed for access to the blower wheel and housing interior. With screws removed go to front and insert putty knife in the seam between the top and front panels about 4 inches in from both sides. Lift top at same time and raise when disengaged.The filter housing can now be moved sufficiently to vacuum the interior from the rear removing any large foreign objects first.

You have now cleaned all the dryer areas that need cleaning. Don't forget the airflow through the vent line of the house.

Reverse the above process to reassemble unit. Good Luck.

Wiring Diagram for your model is located at link below:

KGYE800TWH0 Wiring Diagram

Oct 02, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

Noise from lower blower or compressor


pieces broke from condenser cooling fan,can i get new wheel or blower

Aug 16, 2009 | Royal Sovereign ARP-3012 Air Conditioner

3 Answers

My Royal SovereignARP-3012 lower blower fan wheel broke


This is a difficult repair and no easy cake at all. The one internal part you can order from Royal Sovereign is the lower blower wheel. Perhaps this is because it breaks easily. Begin by draining the unit by removing the rubber plug at lower left. Remove 14 (count them) from the back. Remove additional positioning screws that hold the case side to the metal frame. Take out the two screws on the underside of the outer casing. Unclip the plastic tie that holds a temperature sensor to the rear radiator, and remove the the sensor gently. Spread the casing gently apart and push it away from the chassis a few inches. Reach into the front and unplug the three electronic connectors that link the display panel to the chassis. Note that the two leads that go to the lower part of the chassis go into positions 1 and 3 - the middle connector is not used. Now remove the casing entirely. Take a photo on all sides for reference and get some masking tape ready. You will see an upper blower casing and a lower blower casing, around which are arranged the condenser and two radiators, held in place by four press-formed metal chassis frames and two plastic chassis supports. Do not proceed until you mark where all the screws into the metal supports go. Failure to do this may end up with putting chassis support screws into holes meant for the back panel, making it impossible to reassemble the outer casing. Remove the grounding wire on the right side facing the rear. Tape the screws to the chassis part and note the color of the leads. Mark the location of the screw so you do not put it in wrong place on re-assembly. Do the same with the double green and yellow wires connected to the other side. Disassemble the bracket holding the white metal electrical condenser, noting carefully how the bracket is designed to clamp the condenser in place. Remove all the screws holding all four corner chassis supports, and mark exactly where the screws go. Stick these screws to a piece of tape and label it. Remove all screws holding the upper plastic chassis frame, marking screw locations carefully. Note that some of these screws hold the upper blower casing in place. Stick these screws to another piece of tape and label it. Working from the rear, and using a long phillips head screwdriver, remove two screws that hold the base of the upper blower assembly. Check gently to see if the assembly is now loosened and can be lifted but do not lift it yet. Remove any other screws that impede. Remove the uper chassis support carefully. This is a tricky move, take your time. Remove the tape that holds wiring on the middle plastic chassis support member and put it somewhere you can get it again, you will need it on reassembly. Once the upper blower assembly is removable, lift it EXACTLY vertically to clear the cleats at the base, then carefully rotate it towards you and place it upside down in front of the unit. There is just enough wire to allow you to do this. Remove and tape screws as needed to liberate the middle chassis support member. Remove and tape the two screws that hold the lower blower casing to the deck chassis support. This is where it gets tricky. Remove the middle chassis support but be very careful to support the upper radiator as you do so. Remove and record the location of any other screws that hold the lower blower casing. Tip the upper radiator as little as possible to allow the lower blower casing to be lifted up out of the chassis floor, and out to the side. tis is a difficult move and it is easy to damage the fins of the radiators. Remove the front of the lower blower casing, and remove the blown-up old wheel. Put the new blower wheel onto the motor shaft and make DAMN sure the nut is on tight. Otherwise the wheel will slowly travel up the shaft, rub against the radiator in front and you will have to do it all over again. Reassemble in reverse order. When you re-connect the wiring of the outer casing, be sure to connect the lower wires in front into positions 1 and 3, leaving the center blade open. You will be glad you recorded the exact location of every screw, trust me. It took me seven days to figure this out, even after worming out the service manual and an exploded view from the company (both useless for this repair except for debugging misplaced electrical connections). Easy cake indeed.

Jun 04, 2009 | Royal Sovereign ARP-3012 Air Conditioner

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