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I have a LG2532W gas dryer, replaced igniter and High limit switch, new vents and cleaned unit. It will heat once then won't re-heat! Have to open up unit and push re-set Confused

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It could be the flame sensor. This is designed to shut off the gas supply if it does not sense any flame so there is not a gas flow if the igniter malfunctions. Even though you replaced the igniter the flame sensor could be malfunctioning or just dirty from a build up of burnt gases - this is easy to tell because it will have a coating of powder-like residue. Clean it if it's dirty and retry the dryer. You can clean the igniter with a very fine sandpaper, you don't want to mar it, but I generally just use a dollar bill from my wallet. The texture of the currency will be sufficient to remove the residue yet gentle enough not to harm the sensor. Just wrap it around the sensor and rub it up and down while flexing your wrist. Be firm but gentle, it is a somewaht fragile piece.

Posted on May 18, 2014


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SOURCE: Maytag MDG16CSBWW heating problem

HI thanks for the question. well ,you changed all the parts you needed to. but clean the venting from back, to the outside. thanks. please rate my answer. thanks.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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the flame going out is normal. the heat cycles on and off as called for by the thermostat. If the heat doesn't come back on i would start by changing the gas coils.

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Posted on Sep 12, 2008

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SOURCE: dryer will not heat up

Take off the cover from the front, bottom of the dryer. You should see the burners. Take this opportunity to clean lint from the area. Start the dryer and watch this area. You should see the igniter begin to glow. If it doesn't, you could have gotten a bad replacement. If it does glow, either the gas coils are out or the temperature sensor is out. You could check them if you had an ohmmeter or replace them both as they are relatively inexpensive. I have experienced gas coils that will get so weak that even though they pass the ohm test, they still won't open with the correct voltage applied.

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

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SOURCE: Thermal cut-off blows and high limit thermostat is

in this case we put the lower temp thermostat in the oven at 170 degrees till it was hot and measured with ohm meter and it was open. After it cooled down some it went back to being a short. Now with this part in the dryer and the new high temp thermostat
and it blew shortly after being turned on. A possiblity is that there is a short by passing the 150 degree thermostat and the element keeps being on and causes the 350 degree thermostate to blow.

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

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Dlg2522w gas dryer not heating, cleaned vent, reset, unplugged, still won't heat, motor replaced last year

I tired the reset on the over temp. Did not work. How do I check the igniter/ gas valve and thermostat?

Apr 26, 2012 | LG DLG5932W Gas Dryer


Gas and Electric Dryer Troubleshooting & Repair.

The following procedures will help you repair your dryer whether it is gas or electric. While doing any resistance checks on the unit make sure it is unplugged as you will be exposed to lethal voltages if the unit is not dieconnected. Additionally when doing resistance checks remove one wire of the circuit, replace the wire when done. The best place to get parts for any appliance, best price and availability, is at .

Electric dryers are probably the most common so I will address that first. If the unit spins we know it has power. Move to the next paragraph. If it doesn't spin check the receptacle for 120 vac. If you have it. check the door switch for continuity. Remove the top to access the switch. Using a DMM, on resistance scale, depress the switch and see that it has no resistance. If this checks bad (high resistance) replace it. If good access the start switch. This may require removing the control panel from the top of the unit. While engaging the start switch check for continuity. If open, replace it.

The most likely culprit, when the unit spins but does not heat, on an electric unit, is the heating element. Once used they get brittle and any moving around can crack them. With the unit unplugged remove the back. Should only be several screws around the perimeter. Some units have an inspection plate which can be removed to access the element. Using a DMM on resistance, check the continuity of the coil. It should read several ohms if good. If it reads infinity, you need a new heating element.

If the coil checks OK you will need to check the limit switch. It is located somewhere in the vent area and shuts the unit down if it overheats. Many times these bimetal switches stick open. It looks like a hocky puck mounted to the vent. Once located remove at least one wire and check for continuity. It should have no resistance. If it has a high resistance it will need to be replaced. This should solve your problems if you have an electric dryer. Either the heating element, door switch, start switch or the limit switch will be bad.

If you have a gas dryer the resistive coil is replaced by a gas burner which is a little more difficult, and dangerous, to troubleshoot. If it is less than ten years old it should have electric start. Open the inspection door on the bottom front and see that when you call for drying, (start it), the igniter sparks. If it doesn't and it obviously has power the igniter box will need to be replaced.

If the igniter works and you know that you have gas (other gas appliances work) and the gas valve on the dryer is on, then the control valve has a problem and will need replaced. This may be a job for a professional as working with gas is dangerous and you should be qualified to do the repair.

Beyond those two items there is a light sensor in case the flame doesn't start or goes out. This shuts the gas valve but would only be a factor in the repair if the units burner lights up, runs for a minute and shuts down. It is a photo cell located in the area of the burner.

There is also a tempreture sensor but this would only be a factor if the unit heats but not to operating level. It is similar to the limit switch on an electric dryer and the same troubleshooting applies.

With the above information you should be able to repair any dryer on the planet. Good luck.

Thanks for using FixYa


on Aug 03, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I should like to have a Dutch or English user manual

Obstructed Vent
Your Kenmore dryer must be able to freely circulate air in the dryer in order for it to continuously supply hot air. If air flow is limited from a buildup of lint in the vent and lint tray, the high limit switch temporarily shuts off heat to the dryer. Empty the lint tray on the top of your dryer. Detach the exhaust vent -- the silver tube in the back of your dryer -- and thoroughly clean it out with a lint brush and reattach. Consult your Kenmore dryer manual for instructions on how to inspect and clean your vent hose. Once these components have been freed of lint, the dryer should dry clothes again.
Broken Blower Wheel or Belt
If you have completed a full inspection of your dryer vent system and found no obstructions, your dryer might have a defective blower wheel or belt. A failure of one or both of these components can restrict air flow in your dryer and take your dryer longer to dry clothes. According to Point and Click Appliance Repair, a noise coming from the dryer as the drum spins is usually an indication that the blower wheel is failing and needs to be replaced. Review your Kenmore dryer manual for instructions on how to locate these components on your dryer.
Faulty Thermostat
A broken thermostat can cause your dryer to produce too high or too low heat. Monitor the dryer exhaust temperature with a hand-held thermometer. The temperature should be below 150 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature reading is higher, then replace the thermostat. It's no longer able to regulate the temperature inside the dryer, and your dryer is in danger of overheating. If the temperature reading is room temperature and the dryer is running, the thermostat is broken and needs to be replaced.
Damaged Gas Valve Coils
Damaged gas valve coils permit your Kenmore gas dryer to ignite only once before coils must completely cool in order to reignite. This is a common issue among older dryers. If your dryer struggles to turn on or after it shuts off you must wait several minutes before it restarts, then the gas valve coil likely has worn. Confirm the location of the igniter from the manual. It's a cone-shaped tube that is located inside the dryer near the front panel close to the bottom. If the igniter radiates bright orange for 15 seconds without producing a flame, then the gas valve coils have probably failed.

Mar 10, 2011 | Zanussi Dryers

1 Answer

Gas will not turn on to heat dryer...igniter is ok...tested new solinoids for gas valve seems to be back to timer but do not know for sure took that apart and points seem to be ok no hot spots...

Sometimes the heat sensor/ igniter gets carboned up and needs to be lightly sanded or cleaned for it to sense heat. That could prevent the main gas valve from opening and staying open. Also, does your unit have a heat limit switch or thermal switch that could be faulty? Check the wiring diagram.

Jun 12, 2010 | Whirlpool LEN2000PW Dryer

2 Answers


Check for a blockage in the exhaust vent tubing. A moister sensor detects lint build up and prevents the burner to work
If clear and still no heat check the spark ignitor to click once you turn on the unit. If it does click the ignitor is good. Still not heat? Then the moister sensor is at fault

May 23, 2010 | Estate TGDX640JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Gas maytag dryer not heating up

check the thermal fuse in the dryer vent duct to be open,then if not the flame eye" radiant sensor" or the high-limit thermostat both on the burner tube if the sensor doesn't see(sense) a flame the gas valve will stay shut,then check the gas valve coils,both the BOOST and SECONDARY coil valves on the gas valve body as these can open up and not gas into the burner

May 04, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MCG8000AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a maytag gas dryer model no# ldg7314aae.The dryer runs but there is no heat. the dryer vent was cleaned as well as the interior of lint and still no heat.I was wondering where to start as far as...

your thermal fuse near the dryer vent opening or blower housing inside the unit,this is a one-shot fuse when it burns out you can't reset it,you need to replace it,then the radiant sensor(senses the flame),high-limit and cycling thermostats located on the burner tube on the dryer,then the boost and secondary gas valve coils located on the units gas valve body near the gas inlet to the burner tube

Apr 27, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer


DLE2532W is an electric heat model. (a gas model would be a DLG......) To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.

Dec 28, 2008 | LG DLG5932W Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag Neptune MDG300aww Gas Dryer Heats On and Off


Sep 12, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool Gas Dryer

Yes, that is most likely the problem. Once the glow bar igniter glows so hot, the switch opens & drops power to the igniter.(The radiant sensor has continuity while cold & open when a flame is present.) At the same time, by opening it redirects power to the valve coils allowing them to open & gas flow to the burner assembly. The dying glow of the igniter fires the gas. However, if your igniter glows, the radiant sensor is good. In this case, you'd need to replace the gas valve solenoids.

Aug 01, 2007 | Whirlpool LGR5644J Gas Dryer

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