Question about Heating & Cooling
I would suspect either an electrical problem, or float level inside the carb out of adjustment.
Posted on May 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Either your 14"x14" a/c gasket is lose on the roof allowing the condensation to flow into your RV or you have a cracked condensation tray under the evaporator. I'm guessing the later
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
It's likely that the contacts are stuck closed. You can usually just tap them with a screw driver and they will open but then you should replace them. If you don't know where they are. Find the power wires coming inside the unit and follow them. Contacts are fairly easy to replace as long as you do it wire for wire. In other words when you remove a wire from the old attach it to the new before removing another. I hope this helps. Please don't forget to give me a Fixya rating.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
Most likely the air conditioner draws more power than the generator can supply. Check the current needed for the air conditioner in amps. It should be on a plate attached to the it. If the generator is a 5000 watt it can supply 5000 divided by the voltage required by the airconditioner. i.e. 240 (=20.8 amps) if you live in the UK or Ireland or 120 (41.6 amps) in most of the rest of the world. If it's a 12 Volt Airconditioner than you divide 5000 by 12 Note this is the absolute maximum that can be drawn and as power generally fluctuates will still probably cause the circuit breaker to trip. You should ideally be drawing no more than three quarters of the current available. If there are other appliances being run off the generator this again reduces the amount of current available.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
COLEMAN R.V. AIR CONDITIONER SERVICE AND REPAIR QUESTIONS
COLEMAN R.V. PRODUCTS
GO TO rvcomfort.com
Click on RVP (RV PRODUCTS)
Click on type of AC, if you can’t find the information you want there,
then click on contact us on the Green Bar.
You can get Service Support or Email address and Phone numbers.
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
If it tripps quickly you have a direct short which means a hot wire is going to ground. This can be caused by a wire that has melted and grounded, compressor burnt out, fan motor failure, capacitor shorted, or just one of the wires running from the above to each other. First try the unit with it just running the fan.. if it does not blw the breaker then turn it to a/c . If it blows the breaker on fan you have a wire probably shorted inside the selector/fan panel open it up and look for melted or burnt ends repair the wires if found wires slowly degrade and that creates heat which causes the wire to degrade more until something melts. If it only tripps when you put it on a/c then you need to ck the panel and then go on top and take the cover off look for damaged wires ect there is an access after you take the cover off to get at more wiring. Look for a capacitor it will be a silver or grey cannister with writing on it that says 5uf or 35uf and 200 to 500volts if it is 3 wire it will be the start capacitor for the fan and the compressor if not then you should have two capacitors on 5uf and one 35uf make sure the wires look good if bad replace wires and try the unit if not you will need to purchase a volt/ohm meter at a hardware store get a cheap 10 to 15 dollar one it will come with instructions or just ask the salesman. Then you will need to unhook the wires from the capacitor. 3 wire put ohm meter on ohms and place the wires from the center connection to the outside connection one side will be for the fan and one for the compressor. When you place the black on the center and the red on the outside connection and then reverse hold them for a few seconds the meter will drop and build up to 5 or 35uf then do the other side. The center connection is the same for both sides. If you have one or two two wire capacitors you ck them the same way just put your ohm meter leads on and them switch and see if it builds up try a couple times. If they ck bad replace it. If not then your fan motor or compressor are bad. Remember th capacitors store voltage and are hot even when the power is off you can short them by using a screw driver blade do not touch with your hand. You can check he compressor by grounding one of your ohm meter leads on the compressor scratch a silver spot for goodconnection then touch each of the 3 connections on the compressor if any of them show 0 ohms or close its shorted out. Always unhook power before handling the unit or testing for ohms. hope this helps
Posted on Aug 08, 2010
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The EU3000 series generators are inverter generators. The generator features an alternator, which produced high-voltage, multi-phase AC power. This power is converted to DC power and then converted back to AC. This process is controlled by a microprocessor and is necessary to provide stable, consistent power capable of running equipment sensitive to power surges. This type of generator provides higher fuel efficiency and lower operational noise ratings in a lighter model than home and work generators produced by Honda.
The Honda EU3000i Handi is a 3,000-watt inverter generator that features wheels, folding handle and a recessed convenience light. The engine is a Honda GX160, which features a 163-cc displacement. The AC output is 120 volts, with an average rating of 2,600 watts and a maximum production of 3,000 watts. There are three receptacles to include a 20A, 125-volt duplex and a 30A, 125-volt locking plug. The DC output is 12 volts and 100 watts. The EU3000i can hold 1.56 gallons of unleaded fuel, which will provide consumers with 3.6 hours of run time at 25 percent load for 7.7 hours.
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