We live in SC, have a Goodman 4 ton split system w
We live in SC, large ranch style house on hill with small basement and the rest a crawl space. We have a Goodman 4 ton split system w propane gas furnace, 12 seer, bought 2003, 1 yr warranty on labor. The AC hasn't been cooling. The repairman came today. He said it needs a new reversing valve at $1000. Is this the likely cause? 1.Why would this part go bad? How much does the part cost? How hard is it to replace? Is this price reasonable? 2. The floor is not insulated, the vents to outside are not very good. Should we put plastic over the sandy floor of the crawl space? If so, is 6mil black or clear better with 4-5" overlap? Thank you, Mrs. Howard
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Re: We live in SC, have a Goodman 4 ton split system w
First of all is this unit a heat pump i'm not up on goodman model #'s if it is a heat pump reversing valves do go not a real common problem 1000.00 is excessive i would be inclined to get a 2nd opinion. plastic over the sand could create a condensation mold problem. Good luck. Tom
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How large a space are you hoping to cool? One room? One LARGE room? One SMALL room? One floor of a two-story house? A whole four-story house?
What's your climate like where you live? Very hot, dry, year-round? Cool most of the year but two weeks of hot during the summer? Just a little too warm in summer? Blazing hot all summer, including nighttime?
How's the insulation in the building you want to cool? Is it a plain steel building with no insulation? Is it a trailer? Is it a frame house with 4" walls and R13 fiberglass insulation? An old frame house with no insulation? An adobe building? A timberframe house with 8" of polyisocyanurate foam insulation?
All these are important to know when you select an air conditioner.
For most of the USA, assuming a frame house with 4" of fiberglass insulation, a 10,000BTU air conditioner will cool one large room or two small rooms pretty well, or a 5,000BTU AC will do one medium-sized room. Different places, and different house designs, and different types & amounts of insulation, will all have a profound effect on how much AC you need/want.
When any unit 1st come's on, you'll always have some cold air that's in the ducts that will blow out before you get warm air. If your duct work is uninsulated in a cold basement or crawl space then it will be even more noticeable. When the unit is heating from the Heat Pump mode, it takes a little longer for the gases to get warm enough so you'll fell heat. When it gets cold enough for the unit to switch from heat pump to the gas or electric heat source, you'll get warm air faster. If you have gas heat, some Thermostats have an anticipator setting for the gas valve. If it's set wrong it will effect the on/off cycle of the gas valve.
All duct work in non heated and a/c spaces, including inside walls,above dropped ceilings, in attics and crawl spaces, must be sealed & taped at the seams and joints and then insulated and taped.
Most new construction has solved that problem with insulated duct board, flexible insulated supply's and special tape.
the fuse is located in the circuit board in the blower compartment and the roll-out is located in the burner section and can be a reset-able switch style or the one time fuse link style which is a a small silver cylinder and is mounted in a ceramic piece and is held in with one screw. Both of these are mounted around the opening of the your burner assembly near the opening. This will be near the area of the gas valve.
Depending on everything working correctly with the system, the problem I see may be the size of the system. 2.5 tons is enough to condition around 1000 sq. ft. At 1600 sq. ft. Of living space, you will need a 3.5 to 4 ton system. Unless it was designed in a way that 2.5 tons would work which i doubt, there would be a problem with the charge of refrigerant or other under lying problems. First I would make sure your system is designed right for your house, check all filters and air flow from the vents. Then you go from there. Q good way to check the charge without equipment to do it, on a warm to hot day the outside copper lines should be sweating and warm to hot air coming from the fan on top of the condenser. It's not the accurate way to do it, but a good check anyways. Hope this helps and good luck!
Basement or crawl space? If basement get or set existing dehumidifier between 40% humidity and adjust from there. If crawl space cover crawl space floor with 6 mil poly to trap moisture, if not covered.