Question about Televison & Video
On plug in cooling fan runs for about 5 sec display shows "please wait". This lasts for about 5 mins then goes blank. The unit will not accept any inputs from the remote or the front panel buttons. After a while the display comes on with "Resetting" flashing on and off, this can last for up to 5 min and then goes off again with the unit not accepting any inputs. I am unable to switch the unit on.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Firmware update failed RD-XS34Su
If it was a toshiba supplied disk, then I should follow up with them with the failure, as it was their fix, that caused this problem, they should replace/repair this unit for you
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
SOURCE: Shutdown protection? HELP please
All of the Denon recievers I have repaired (over 100) that shut down after a very short time are going into protect mode. The display lights up and after about 10 seconds the display goes out and the standby led blinks red.
I have found that they have one of 3 possible problems and they all require that the reciever be taken apart and fixed at component level. No way to tell what your problem is until it gets put on a bench and troubleshot.
Problem 1. This is the most common problem. One of the front channels shorts out. On the big heat sink the front channels are at each end. It is the front left channel (close to the display) This requires that the output transistors be replaced as well as some driver transistors and some resistors and a capacitor. Lots of work for a blown channel. Denon has put out a bullitin to upgrade the bias transistor and change a couple of resistors to help compensate for this failure. That channel overheats more than any other channel.
Problem 2. There is a resistor that is right next to the preamp board that opens up. It is a 10 ohm 1 watt resistor and when it opens, it causes the unit to go into protect.
Problem 3. The +12 volt regulator fails. It is in the power supply area on a smal heat sink right next to the -12 volt regulator. Generic part number is KIA7812 It also causes the unit to go into protect.
Most decent repair shops can fix these from about $120 up to about $200. Depending on which problem it is and how fast they are at finding the problem. Most charge labor by the hour.
Posted on Jun 18, 2008
Just wanted to supplement DC's solution with photos for those who would like to see the project before attempting. For the record this fix worked perfectly and my unit is back to perfect working order with all my recordings intact.
Start by removing the top cover of the unit.
Working from the back of the unit you'll see the hard drive on the left.
Remove the two screws indicated by the red circles in the picture above. Then slide the cover plate forward and remove.
Two cables are connected to the hard drive. Left side is power and the black ribbon is the data connector. Both come off pretty easily. After removing cables lift out hard drive. Here's what you get.
Better view of cables after removing the drive. Remove plastic drive liner.
Remove the four screws indicated by the red circles in the picture above. Note the one at the top. (I missed this one for a few moments while putting it back together.) Remove drive mount.
Viola! You now see the burned out capacitors. Also circled are the four screw holes you just removed screws from and a cable that must be disconnected. (see next pic)
Gently pry up on the black plastic part of the cable mounted on the power board. You can see in this picture how I've just started to get it off a bit. You may have to pull on the latch in the center of the mounting. I did but I don't know if it was necessary.
On the back of the unit remove one screw just above the power plug. Then rock and twist and hold your tongue just right to get the power supply board out.
You'll see the capacitor numbers labeled on the circuit board on the front and...
on the back. Use a soldering gun to melt the solder on these four spots rocking the capacitors out of the holes as you do so. Just don't get solder over to any adjacent circuits.
You end up with nicely marked pos/neg info on the board.
Get your new capacitors from Radio Shack or other electronics store.
The ones suggested by DC are more heavy duty so they are bigger. I chose to lay them on their side so as to not raise the height of the board components. There is plenty of room to do so making my decision to do so a no brainer.
I leave the leads on the capacitors long until the capacitors are positioned and soldered in good shape.
Then clip the extra lead down to the solder with a wire cutter.
Thats it. reverse the directions to re-assemble the unit.
Hope the pictures helped. They always seem to help me prepare for such an adventure.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
SOURCE: air conditioner
I managed to find the people who supplied the unit, it was still under warranty, and they said it was the thermistors (temprature probes, they replaced both of them) It is now working perfectly!
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
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