Question about Water Heaters
We installed a Kenmore electric water heater model # 153.326464. The waterheater has 2 pipes on the toop one for cold and one for hot. In the pipes when we took it out of the box ther were blue plastic inserts in each pipe. We left them in when we installed it. We are haveing problems with gettin water pressure from hot water. Should we have taken out the inserts? They did not look like they should come out.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Water heater ground
run to breaker panel or drive a 8ft ground rod and connect to it the water line is no longer acceptable as the public utility's are using pvc for gas and water now and this is no longer a practice you could use the ground rod that is already installed on your service and use connector , but something you might do well to check is to make sure in the process of installing the plastic pipes the ground going to the panel was not also disrupted if so you will need to install 2 8ft ground rods at least 6 ft apart and daisey chain together with proper size ground wire . # 4 solid for 200 amp and # 6 solid for 100 amp service , I would make sure the panel ground is solid very important for safety ,, let me know if i can further assist
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
That pipe is connected to something called the T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve. The pipe that connects to the valve should be run to a drain line so that the water goes somewhere other than all over the floor, but often it just ends a couple of feet from the valve. It's possible the valve has opened because the pressure in the tank is over its limit, but more likely it's the valve's fault. If the new heater was supplied without a T&P, the installer may have used the one from your old heater. Over time the spring inside the valve weakens. Then it can't hold the pressure from the new heater properly. A new valve is under $10 at home improvement stores or larger hardware stores. It just screws into the water heater, so it's simple to replace it if you have a pipe wrench. Turn off the water into the heater and remove the old valve. Use Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads of the new valve (the store will sell that too), tighten it into the heater, then turn the water back on. That should end your leak. If it doesn't and the T&P valve still opens, you'll need to have a plumber check the water pressure in your home.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
I have a 1 bed flat, above an old pub. I have a combi boiler but my water pressure is ridiculous. The shower water runns down the shower head. I'v been told that the cold water feed to the building is split to two boilers, one to the pub and one to me. Im thinking of installing a shower pump in between the boiler and the shower. will this work as my friend says he has done this and it sorted his problem out. I'v looked it up on the net and everything says this does not work. Help please.....
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
SOURCE: I have a 40 gal
You will need an amp meter. I suspect that the lower heating element is out or the thermostat.
Most water heater have a upper and lower element. The bottom is the main work horse.
Take the lower access door off and you can get to the wires to use a clamp on Amp meter. You should get a reading of 10 + amp if it is working. You can check the thermostat with the volt meter also to make sure you are getting voltage to the element . You should have 220 volts across the two wire attached to the element. The elements are not to hard to change. You will need to shut the power Off and the Cold Water off. Drain the tank to get below the bottom element and you will need to get a special wrench to unscrew the old element out of the tank. Hope this Helps
Posted on Jan 02, 2011
Testimonial: "Thanks for the promt reply, I had the feeling it might be that but did not know how to find out. Thanks again"
SOURCE: Kenmore Economizer 6 Gas Water
A few things...
Fisrt off these pressure switches are very sensitive instruments and work on VERY small pressures. so it they wear just a bit they fail to work.. this insures maximum safety. So if all else checks out replace the pressure switch, they fail often, but it is the only way to run these things safely.
Also check all the tubing going to the pressure switch for moisture... just a few drops of water and cause them not to work...
When you start the unit... jumper the pressure switch with in the five second window and see if it lights... is is does then you know for sure the problem is there...if not then the problem could be in the control board.
If you own and know how to use an OHM meter you also can check the switch with the unit running to make sure the contacts are closing.
Bottom line... I think you have a bad pressure switch, but check out everything else first before replacing it.
Posted on Aug 17, 2011
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