Question about Behringer Gi100 Ultra G Active Di Box
Has a pretty pronounced hiss when 4x12 cab button is enguaged seems pretty good without the 4x12 switch enguaged. what could be wrong
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
After reviewing the schematic, I don't understand how the Phantom power can REMAIN on with the power switch off... this CANNOT occur except for what energy is left in the 48 volt supply filter cap... This might last for minutes after the fuse went... UNLESS you have devices connected which are backfeeding the 48 volts. (which would be a disaster)
The 48 volts, +/- 12 volts and +/- 15 volts and the +5 volts ALL come from the SAME switching power supply. I suspect one of the filter caps went or the primary switching regulator a TDP245Y chip.
You should ONLY work on the line side of this using an ISOLATION transformer since the line side has lethal voltages.
To do testing, one replaces the fuse and puts a 60 Watt light bulb in series with the hot side of the inout line. The lamp "acts" as a resetable fuse and limits the current for testing. When all is well again, the lamp will remain out with the power flowing through it.
The D1 diode bridge and C7 input rectifier and filter are first things to check. You can do those with an ohmmeter.
I will caution you to ALWAYS power any and all equipment from the SAME power source. Plugging in devices from across the room will set up ground loops and any ground fault will fry equipment.
Posted on Apr 05, 2010
You should find +/-15 volts and +5 volts as well as the phantom power... but that light can come on at much lower than desired voltage.
Note that the regulators are current limited so a short on the mixer board can kill one of the voltages.... but you are not getting any input from teh switching portion of the regulator so the switching part of the supply is apparently dead. To replace the supply you would have to call Behringer at 1-425-672-0816 to get the part number and an incident number and then call FullCompass which is their part distributor now.
When working on a switching power supply, use an isolation transformer for safety and use a 60 watt lamp in series with the power cord to limit current during testing.
The circuitry will be SIMILAR to the power supply found on page 9 of schematic you can download at:
Posted on Dec 15, 2010
The phantom power light wouldn't illuminate unless the unit was powered on. Possibly the main power indicator light is burned out.
Posted on Jan 16, 2011
The Phantom power comes from a seperate winding on the switching power supply.Likely one or more of the other voltages are not present due to a failure of one or more components. The supplies are current limited so a short anyplace on the board may cause the problem. I had one of these short betwen the +/- 15 volt busses because somebody spilled liquid into it.
Here is a close schematic... a slightly different model with less channels, but circuoitry is the same, just more copies of it in yours: I believe it is zipped with four files... the last is the power supply.
Posted on Feb 20, 2011
Here is a schematic close to your unit:
Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download. Ignore other download links.
The phantom power is a separate rectifier and regulator. See page 11 of the download service manual for the power supply. Be careful when working on line operated switching supplies. I suspect you will find one of the other supplies is dead. If the phantom is OK, then the switcher is working and one of the rectifier/filter/regulators is bad. Check if an electrolytic cap is shorted.
Posted on Jul 22, 2011
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