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Emerson repair manual

I have a leak coming from the inlet portion of the water holding tank where the little filter goes into. How can I replace the fitting or patch it so it will stop leaking. I have the back off of the unit and added water to the holding tank and discovered that this is where the leak is coming from.

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Repair manuals are in PDF, and cannot include it here by this window.
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" or "Magazine" will make surf easy. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. Do a search by type in the brand name of your device at its search box.

Posted on May 16, 2014


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Got a trauma ultrastore water heater in my bailey senator caravan water is coming out from either overflow/pressure value or maybe a leak can anyone advise on how to try and sort this out

There is no overflow pipe on the water heater. There is an overflow/vent pipe on the fresh water storage tank though. It is normal for this to leak water at times.

Its possible you might have some type of winterizing hot water tank drain. But that should have a valve on it. If you have such a valve it should be shut off and not leaking.

That said we move on to the water heater. This is assuming you have a water heater leak. Or a leak with something connected right at the water heater.

You could expand this concept to move on to other pressured parts of your plumbing system to troubleshoot and isolate.

I would remove the pressure relief valve and rig up a fitting you can screw in. Set up with a pressure gauge and a air filler fitting like is on an inter-tube/tire. Some plumbing stores sell them already made up.

You might have to custom adapt this using some rubber hose rated for air compressors. Using barbed to threaded fittings and hose clamps to withstand pressure.

Install your air valve/gauge in place of the relief valve. If you have bypass valves this is a little easier. Close off the bypass valves to isolate the tank from the plumbing system.

If your plumbing set up has no bypass valves, disconnect the inlet and outlet plumbing lines. Screw in appropriate sized plugs in the two tank holes. Use teflon tape and make sure they are secured. (All easier said than done).

With an air compressor or tire pump pressurize the tank to 50psi. Soap all fittings, and your plugs, to insure you have no leaks around anything screwed in. Let this sit overnight. If your pressure drops off you have a leak. If your pressure holds I would suspect the relief valve that you removed.

You could move your air valve/gauge set up to the water inlet or outlet pipe and reinstall the relief valve, to test the relief valve. Pressure up to 50psi and soap everything again. Let it set overnight again.

If you suspect the relief valve before any of this troubleshooting starts, you might just start by installing the air valve/gauge in the inlet or outlet right from the get go.

Tanks often get pin holes on the bottom as they start to corrode through. Hard to visually find in many cases. Pressurizing with air will tell you whether you have a leak for sure. Not get everything wet in the process. Using common sense and a process of elimination, you should find the problem. There are also drain valves and in some cases anode rods that are screwed into the tank and may be a source of the leak? Soap all of these while troubleshooting.

The image is my setup. It is a little more fancy than described. I have a little valve off a T so I can use the little turn wheel and open the valve to relieve pressure without unscrewing everything. That also beats holding in the little spring loaded needle valve of the "tire filler" valve shown sticking out the right side. But I think you will get the idea of the basic concept?

May 23, 2017 | RVs


Fix for leaking EC-75 filter (hairline crack)

Severe leak in EC75. Pool store offers only option: 'buy a new filter and we will install it for you'. Water running down side of tank in flat stream about 6 inches wide -- actual gush of water when pump starts up -- sometimes pencil-lead thick stream coming out from under the top-part. Can hear air sucking in when pump is not running, but stops after while -- pump does not lose prime and water does not seem to be draining back into pool thru intake. Leaking about 650 gallons each day. Here is how I fixed it.
Took top off, drained tank and dried it. Felt around top edge and found what could be a crooked hairline-crack, entirely above the 'ridges' on the inside of tank. The crack meandered and was entirely above that side of the tank where I had seen water running down the outside of the tank during operation. The crack is barely visible to the eye but is obvious to the fingers. At first I thought it was a thread of silicone caulk but decided it was a crack when it did not rub off.

Made sure outside of tank was dry all around, filled tank with water (no pressure) to above the suspected crack. Grabbed the sides and squeezed -and-pulled hard, once, trying to emulate the tank's flexure under pressure; the squeeze-and-pull may not have made any difference, but sure enough, water was coming through the side of the tank & draining down the side. Emptied the tank and dried it outside and inside to below the crack.

Cut a patch from pool-vinyl. Made it wide enough to extend down inside the tank (only) and below one or two of the 'ridges' and long enough to extend about an inch (2.5cm) past each end of the crack -- SEE NOTE-- but if I have to do it again I will probably cut it narrower so it will not cover any ridge.

I used "Sticky Jack Glue" that I got from Starcrest and had used to fix a rain-barrel problem. Dried the area that would be patched and spread the glue evenly (?) on it and beyond the ends of the area being patched. I think I used too much glue. Dampened the vinyl patch and applied it, pressing it into place. Did not walk away and leave it.

The glue foams up a little as it cures, which I know Gorilla Glue also does, so maybe Gorilla Glue could do this just as well (better?)..

Checked it after a few minutes and the patch had started sliding down the inside of the tank. I think this was partly because I used too much glue -- the glue is a little viscous and thus 'lubricates" the area until it sets up a little -- and partly because I had cut the patch a little wide and it was sliding down over the top ridge and so was being 'lifted' a bit instead of being impeded by the ridge. The patch had also lifted in 2 places along its length because, after all, it is a flat piece of pool-vinyl (about 1.5" x 9") and the surface I am gluing it to is concave, so it fits unevenly -- this "lifting" or "wrinkling" might have been avoided (?) if I had I stretched the vinyl before applying the patch.

Got some C-clamps and VERY LIGHTLY applied them to hold the patch in place until the glue set up a little. Not tight at all or it wrinkled worse. I did not use clothes pins because I thought they would be too tight a grip.

Checked it after a few more minutes and smoothed out the places where it was still wrinkling and trying to lift. Rolled up a piece of thin cardboard (a political-campaign postcard) and cut an inch-wide chunk off its end, then loosened a clamp and slid it under the clamp and closed the clamp just enough to hold it -- my idea was to spread the clamping force over a wider area and get the advantage of that little roll-of-cardboard's springiness so as to keep a very light pressure over that area.

Checked it about an hour later and everything looks copacetic.
DAY TWO: Removed the C-clamps and put the top on, tightening the bolts in a sequence that spreads the pressure as evenly as possible -- as always -- then started the pump and provided DE.
Pressure is nice and low. No leak. No, wait; there IS still a leak. But not the spurt, sheet, or steady stream like it was. In fact, it makes me think of a cold pitcher of iced tea that I took out of the fridge and put on the patio table -- except it is less than that, and only in one place, not across the whole 6 inches like before. It is so little, and so slow -- I recall that the glue looks like it has a cellular stucture, once dried -- and such slow leakage must have a microscopic pathway -- I recall that I bump the pump because the pressure goes up as DE clogs the internal "fingers" -- and it seems reasonable that maybe the DE will be able to clog this leak. Ran the pump the usual 12 hours (I am in Central Florida: long days and hi temps).
The "sweat leak" is gone. The pump is running fine, the pool looks good, the pressure is low.
Still no leak, pump runs fine, pool looks good, filter-pressure is still low. This looks like it is working.
*NOTE: The classic way to stop a crack from spreading is to drill a small hole at each end of the crack. I forgot to do that -- and I HAVE a 1/64" bit .-- since I did not to this to relieve or spread the strain I should not be surprised if, over time, the crack spreads beyond the edge of my patch. As it turns out, since the patch is holding, I can hope that the effect of the glue-&-vinyl will also impede the strain and maybe reduce it somewhat. However, if I do have to try another fix I think next time I will probably do a compression-patch -- I have seen that on some pressure vessels (low pressure ones) and would expect it to work here. I would probably have to make it of stainless steel and use stainless bolts, washers, and nuts -- probably about $10 worth. My vinyl patch cost less that a buck.
ANOTHER NOTE: Maybe if I had thought more I would have doubled or tripled the thicknesses of pool-vinyl I used, because I now realize that the DE swirling inside the filter will erode the vinyl and expose the underlying cured glue and must eventually expose the crack again. Well, for however long the erosion takes it is money not yet spent. And perhaps the DE will 'mat' on the patch-assembly as it does on the fingers, and thus prevent the erosion and maintain the function.

on Jul 25, 2012 | Hayward Pool & Spa

1 Answer

1971 buick 455 fuel pump diagram

The pump has an inlet and an outlet. To find the inlet (coming from the tank), hold your finger over the openings and have someone crank the engine over. The fitting that has suction on it is the inlet-hose from tank goes there. The hose to the carburetor goes onto the pump's outlet fitting (with clamps).

Dec 12, 2013 | Buick Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Leaking water from the hose connections

Had the same problem w/the water inlet w/initial installation. When the water inlet was hooked to the faucet and into the washer, water leaked on the washer end. The manual tells you to put a new "flat" washer (provided) in the washer machine water inlet, but water still leaked. It's actually the not flat washer, it's more of an "U" shape washer that goes into the washer machine water inlet and fits right over the filter in the water inlet valve. Leak was solved, but faucet was on and water was not filling in the drum. Turn power on, select cycle, water level, and press start and water should start filling the drum.

Jul 28, 2013 | Haier HLP23E Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Rhepre 40-4 wtr heater leaking from cold water intake

Firstly, don't confuse condensation on the pipe with a leak. The cold water inside the pipe makes the pipe cold. The warmer air around the pipe causes condensation to appear - much the way a glass of cold water "sweats" on a table in a warm room.

Next, determine exactly where the source of the leak is. If it is at a soldered or threaded junction of pipes or pipe an tank, you should be able to solve it - if you know how to solder.

You'll have to power off the tank at the circuit breaker (or shut off the gas supply if not an electric type) before doing anything else. Next, shut off the cold water supply to the tank. This valve must be on the supply side of the leak. If the leak is ahead of the valve, you might need to shut off the water to the entire building. Then, open the closest hot water faucet. Finally, lower the water level of the tank by draining the tank from the bottom valve (you'll need to connect a garden hose to it and run the end to the outdoors, shower drain, toilet, etc.). Keep in mind - the water will not drain "up hill". That means the end of the hose must be lower than the top of the tank. You do not need to drain the entire contents of the heater unless you need to physically move it (or if it is a natural gas or propane type - as a licensed plumber or pipe fitter will be required to disconnect / reconnect the fuel line). A few gallons of water should be enough to allow working on the pipe without causing spills.

Disconnect the cold water supply pipe from the tank - above the source of the leak. You may have to do this by un-soldering the nearest pipe coupling with a propane or mapp gas torch. Soak a thick cloth in cold water and wrap it around the pipe at the tank's inlet to prevent the heat from the torch from damaging the plastic inlet fitting inside the tank. If the inlet connector is melted or damaged; the entire tank must be replaced. Additionally, you might need to unsolder the hot water piping to get better access to the cold water pipe. Only disconnect as much as needed to do the job.

Once the pipe(s) are disconnected, remove the section of pipe that mates with the leak. You will probably need wrenches to unthread pipe sections or fittings so that you can carefully inspect the male and female threads. Fully remove the pipes & fittings and obtain replacements as needed.

You might want to think about installing unions on the hot and cold water pipes. These will make future removal of the tank very easy with no need for soldering. Doing this will increase the time it takes to do the job this time, but simplifies tank removal in the future. You're already into this job - and its only few more extra steps.

Before reassembly, you should provide several wraps of teflon tape around the threaded portion of all male pipe threads. Telfon tape is highly suggested as it is clean and very easy to work with when compared with pipe dope that is applied with a brush. Carefully thread the pipes into the fitting(s) on the tank hand tight. If you are presented enough pipe or fitting to hold the tank inlet fitting, do so with a wrench. Use a second wrench to fully tighten the pipe into fitting. If there is no way to hold the inlet fitting, use a wrench to tighten the pipe about an additional full turn. Always use two wrenches to tighten pipes into fittings when possible. Make up any other threaded fittings (unions, etc.) and pipes as needed. Dry fit the copper pipes together - cut long pieces and replace short pieces of pipes as needed. Once all the pieces are are the correct length and fit together properly prepare for soldering. Clean the outside ends of all copper pipes and insides of couplings and connectors to be soldered with emery cloth, sand paper, or wire brush tools designed for expressly this purpose etc. until they are fully scuffed up and are bright and shiny. Wipe any dust and debris from the pipe with a clean, dry cloth. Try not to touch the cleaned parts of the pipe with bare hands. Apply a light coating of soldering flux to the cleaned ends and fit the pipes with couplings together again like the dry fitting earlier. Place a wet cloth around the pipes nearest the inlets (as before when removing the pipes) once again.

Heat the couplings and fittings one at a time with just enough heat to cause the solder to be wicked into the fitting. It is important not over heat the fittings or pipes. Be sure to let solder flow all the way around the pipes and into both ends of the coupling to ensure a complete solder seal both in and out of the coupling. Wipe away excess solder with a wet cloth to keep your work good looking. Once one fitting has been completed, go to the next and repeat until all fittings and pipes are soldered and clean. A good soldered joint should have a ring of solder visible all the way around the pipe inside the edge of the coupling.

If you've never soldered before, you should practice before doing this repair. Botched soldered joints could result in water damage and additional repair work that is greater than the original problem. Of course, a licensed plumber will make short work of this job and is an excellent alternative to DIY when money for the repair is available.

Good luck!

Dec 18, 2011 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Leak at one of the fittings on my Culligan RO system

Too much pressure in holding tank will not cause leaks in the RO unit. All too much pressure in tank will do is cause low or no product water in RO tank. Older Culligan RO systems (H8, H83, H5) had fittings that used metal locking washers and these can cut the RO line after the RO has been moved around while changing filters. Newer styles (AC30, Water Tower) use quick connect fittings and the RO line may work loose after filter changes and system being moved around under sink.
Turn the incoming water off to RO, turn the water off on RO tank, open the RO faucet to relieve pressure and pull the line off feeding the RO tank, inspect (you may want to cut off a small portion of the line at the filter) check the o-ring and re-install.

Aug 01, 2010 | Culligan Under Sink Water Filter

1 Answer

Cant find where the fuel fillter is located in our pontiac Grand am 2004

Fuel Filter (behind gas tank) Removal & Installation To Remove:
NOTE: There is no maintenance schedule for fuel filter replacement. Replace the fuel filter if restricted. Inspect the fuel tank internally if you find a restricted fuel filter.
Typical inline fuel filter gm-05-38-686.gif

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Quick connect fitting at the fuel filter inlet
    • Fuel filter outlet fitting from the fuel filter while holding the filter fitting with a back-up wrench
    • Fuel filter from the vehicle
    • Fuel line O-ring.
To Install:
  1. Position the new fuel filter in the bracket.
  2. Install a new plastic retainer on the fuel inlet line.
  3. Lubricate the new fuel pipe O-ring with clean engine oil.
  4. Install the fuel pipe O-ring.
  5. Reconnect the fuel outlet line to the filter by holding the filter with a back-up wrench and tightening the line fitting to 20 ft lbs (27 Nm).
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks.
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Jun 30, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a Hayward sand filter and the top is cracked and leaks. When I patch it, it just cracks somewhere else

those tanks are designed to hold alot of pressure. If it is cracked, it's already unsafe. When the pump turns on, the tanks usually flex a little bit, depending on your system. The flexing usually makes the patch come undone. It's best, and safer, to replace the filter tank.

Apr 05, 2010 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

6 Answers

Replace fuel lines WeedEater FL 1500 Blower

On the FL1500:
  • The Smaller line goes on the Lower inlet tube on the carborater the other end goes to the gas filter inside the gas tank.
  • The Larger line goes on the upper outlet tube on the carborater the other end goes to a fitting that holds this tube from coming out on the gas tank .This tube is only for Air, it helps fill the primer bulb when pushed.
I hope this helps.
Mechs correct me if I have made a mistake.
Thaxs Jon

Sep 09, 2009 | Garden

2 Answers

Haier XQB55-10 : water leakage from inlet hose jointer

You must examine your machine hose to see if it is blocked. Clean out the fine nets in the hose as well as at the machine entry (inlet water entry). Clean well with a tooth brush, refit carefully. Water should be in good pressure for machine operation.

Feb 23, 2009 | Haier HWD1000

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