Question about Refrigerators
How do I get the back freezer wall out
Its a major repair I suggest sell the fridge and look for another
as the heating element even after you replace it will tend to give
Posted on May 16, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the refrigerator was tipped on back or side, even part way, it has to wit upright at least overnight, because of the freon flowing upward.
If you just moved in and it has been sitting and unplugged, then it may be low on freon.
Here are some tips
If you open the fresh food compartment of your fridge (the non-freezer compartment), you will most likely see two different controls. One refers to the refrigerator temperature and the other refers to the freezer. Different manufacturers use different wording, but the idea is the same.
The first thing you need to know in order to understand what these controls really do is that all the cold air in the entire refrigerator is made in the freezer compartment. A portion of that cold air is then blown into the fresh food compartment. How much cold air gets blown in is controlled by the "freezer" control, which is really just an air baffle that opens or closed to let more or less air into the fresh food compartment. The "refrigerator" control is actually a thermostat that feels the temperature inside the fresh food compartment and turns the compressor on and off according to the temperature that the thermostat feels.
Let’s run through an example. Suppose you decide that your ice cream isn’t hard enough. You adjust the "freezer" control to make your freezer colder. What you’re actually doing is restricting the amount of cold air that gets blown from the freezer into the fresh food compartment and so keeping more of the cold air in the freezer. As a result, the freezer will get colder but also the fresh food compartment will tend to get warmer because its cold air supply has been diminished. The "refrigerator" control (the thermostat) will feel this increase in temperature inside the fresh food compartment and will keep the compressor running longer in order to maintain the temperature setting on the "refrigerator" control. So, you can see that any change you make to one control will affect the other.
Many people then wonder, "Well, how do I know what the correct setting on the controls should be?" Since the temperature inside a refrigerator will vary according to lots of external factors such as frequency and duration of door openings, it is impossible to say where your controls should be set all the time in order to maintain a desired temperature in the freezer and fresh food compartments without knowing the actual temperature inside both compartments. For this reason, you should place two thermometers in your refrigerator: one in the fresh food compartment (the big one) and the other in your freezer. The controls should then be adjusted to achieve -10 to +10ºF in the freezer and between 36 and 38ºF in the fresh food compartment.
Keep in mind, too, that it takes 24 hours for any change in the controls to work through the system and reach steady state so don’t look for instantaneous changes in temperature when you make control setting changes. Knowing the actual temperature inside your refrigerator compartments is also a great way to save money on your power bill since you can adjust the controls to avoid running your compressor longer than needed to keep your food cold.
Posted on Mar 16, 2008
You need to remove the clog in the drain line from the freezer to the condenser, Look under the fridge for the plastic drain line and blow it out or otherwise clear it, Then insure that the unit is level. Sooner or later you need to clean the freezer drain pan. After using up your frozen food, remove the back panels of the freezer and clean the area well.
Posted on Oct 29, 2008
Tripping an earth leakage would indicate a break down of insulation in the windings of the compressor, the possibility of a short circuit in the wiring system or the defrost element down to earth. I recommend you have a certified technician check it out before you have a fire. If the Hoover is in good condition there is no reason not to replace it. Rate me please.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
The heating element, located behind the back plate of the freezer, is probably not working. A failed heating element leads to a build up of ice around the evaporator coils in the rear of the freezer. If the back plate of the freezer is removed (ONLY DO THIS WITH THE APPLIANCE UNPLUGGED FROM THE POWER SUPPLY) and there is a large build up of ice around the evaporator coils then it's a fairly good indication that the heating element is not working. The heating element comes on periodically to defrost/de-ice the evaporator coils. Heating element is often activated by a small timer switch which turns the heater on for a set time every 24 hrs or so. Heating element may be open circuit or timer switch may not be operating. Most likely to be open circuit heating element.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
This is a bad design flaw, the fridhe is cooled by fan forced air from the freazer. Two ducts vent into and out of the fridge fron the freezer and ice can block them up (which you can find if you take off all the plastic at the top and back of the fridge).
Hence, when they block up, the frindge does not cool, hence the thermostat tells the fridge to keep running which makes the freezer colder and colder, making the blockage worse.
You need to not only fully defrost the freezer (which can be done quicker by removing the plastic panel in the back of the freezer and using a hairdryer) BUT also fully dry the fridge before turning it back on.
To stop it happening again, avoid puting unvovered liquids or hot items in the fridge. Also avoid leaving the fridge and freezer doors open for long especially in humid conditions. As I said, it's a bad design.
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
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