Tube is clogged that lets oil get to chain. Find the hole exit to the chain and clean with pick of some sort. I have a set of picks various sizes kind of like a allen wrench set that I use. A long needle or tooth pick will work. The hole is cloged with wood chips either from the outside or accidently dropping in the oiling resivior when adding oil.
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hows the little hose inside oil tank ? or is it maybe missing ?? if so it will only pump oil if tank is completly full to top , then stops as tank works its way down , a can of that keyboard cleaner (air nozzle) goes miles to blowing out little oil passages with sawdust jammed in there !!
You shouldn't need any other oil than the oil to keep the chain and bar guide oiled (pressing down on the button adds more oil to the chain/bar). You can use standard Bar and Chain Oil, or probably pay a little more and use the Poulan brand oil, but in my experience, any bar oil for chainsaws will work, and the larger the container you buy, the less per ounce you will pay. Remember this is NOT an automatic oiling system, so it will be cheaper in the long run to remember to press that button than to replace the chain/saw if it overheats.
Your chain saw is a manually oiled model which means YOU have to pump
it.YOU do not pour oil on the chain. An auto oiler model works without you doing anything, the pump is run by
the engine. A manual model, you pump the oiler The Chain saw has internal oil channels or holes to apply the oil directly under the chain and into the chain bar guide. Pouring oil on the guide or chain will NEVER lubricate the chain properly. Whomever gave you such an idea is just plain wrong. I sent
you the link to the owner manual and gave you a diagram. Click here
Depends on what machine we are talking about, if its an adjustable pump increase the flow, most machines will have a pipe and filter behind the pump, remove the pipe and clean the filter check the pipe for cracks or splits, make sure the o rings and or seals on the pump body are there and doing there job ( seals not still on the old pump ) make sure the bar hole and rails are clean, early machines will have a pump drive gear pressed onto the crank, make sure this is a snug fit and is turning with the crank, later machines will have a gear driven by the sprocket, make sure this gear has not striped and is correctly engaged to the sprocket, try a much lighter oil in the tank to help prime the system.
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other problems. Make sure to have fresh fuel/oil mix (50:1 ratio) in the tank. Be sure to premix in it's own container and shake the container thoroughly each time just before filling the tank to prevent oil starvation. Remove the spark plug and check for blue and snappy spark. If ok, try pouring a little fuel mix into the plug hole and try for start. If it pops, then you have fuel problems--try cleaning and re-kitting the carburetor. Pay particular attention to the diaphragm in the lower chamber--it should be flexible with no holes or cracks. Does the primer bulb pull fuel into it when pumped several times? Hope some of this helps!
Take the bar and chain from the saw. Clean the two small ports that run from the large oil holes at the drive end of the bar out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Start the engine with these parts removed--oil should ooze out from the side port in the engine case with the engine running at med speed. If it doesn't, then there is trouble near the pump inside the case. When everything is back together, run the saw at full speed with the bar tip near a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard after a few moments of running. Hope this helps!
Hi It would be helpful to know where durban is. In most parts of America "Bar Oil" is available at many hardware stores, and certainly at any chain saw dealership. Oddly enough, many "Green" aware saw operators are now using vegetable oil as a lubricant. So Canola oil, Corn oil, or any other fairly thick, heavy vegetable oil will work fine. The oil is pumped onto the bar at the top of where it exits the motor housing, and then circulates around the bar. Much of it is lost on the first pass the chain makes through the wood. This is carried away in the chip stream coming out of the cut. On many gas saws, you can see oil being slung off the chain when you rev the motor up. The green feeling is, all this oil is left where we cut. Are we leaving a biodegradable oil behind? Or a contaminant that will take years to degrade.
See also: http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html
Stay safe, keep the blade sharp - use the protective gear as directed. HF