Question about John Deere Seat 4210 4310 4410 4510 4610 4710 Tractor

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I have a JD 4510 4wd. When I turn on the engage switch,to engage the front wheels, the hydraulic cylinder go's in just a very little. which not allowing the front wheels to engage into 4wd. I have changed the hydraulic cylinder and solenoid. that didn't help. is there anything I can check or replace?

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SOURCE: Blades on jd GT235 randomly turn on when engaged and will not stay on

check the safety switch on the seat

Posted on May 10, 2012

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I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2000 425 Expedition hydraulic brakes freeze up what causes this and how do we fix it


It could be a couple of things. The question is is hydraulic pressure being Mai tainted on that brake and it sounds do like it might be. That would indicate the brake system is not releasing pressure when the pedal is released. This could be from the master cylinder or proportioning valve. If the hydraulic system is releasing but the brake remains engaged then it is a mechanical issue and I would replace the caliper.

Oct 17, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Need a clutch pedal diagram for a 1999 s10 2.2 4cyl manual trans


Sorry no diagram. But here is how it works. In the start position(Power) the wire goes to the start fuse, from the fuse it goes to the clutch pedal switch. Push the pedal and it goes to the starter relay. On the other end is ground. If it is good it pulls the relay closed. On the closed end is battery power to the starter.

Mar 09, 2016 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Why won't the mower move forward or backward even though the engine is running and the blade will engage?


First off, riding mowers do not "go into gear"; nor can they be shifted into or out of gear...nor, as a matter of fact are they "automatic" or do they have "automatic" transmissions. Instead, the so-called hydrostatic "transmission" is nothing more than the sense one gets--encouraged by mfr/seller misdirection (or product ignorance)--that a mower works just like a car...rather than being powered by nothing more than a belt that turns a wee little hydraulic motor, the speed and direction of which is controlled by the foot pedal controlling volume of fluid coursing though it to hydraulically drive the drive wheels.

If your rider will not move, that means one of two things (other than fatal failure mode)...or rather two of one thing, the latter being that hydraulic fluid it not flowing, is not pumping freely, through that motor.

Reason 1 (the more likely) is that the manual-mower-push switch on the motor has been engaged to permit the mower to be pushed without the vehicle (drive wheels) being blocked...because the engine is not running, so the fluid cannot flow with the turning of the drive wheels (unless the switch is engaged).

Think of it this way. When the mower is running and the clutched engine PTO is driving the belt or shaft that drives the hydraulic motor, the direction is chosen by reversing direction of fluid flow that the motor is circulating under pressure (also called pumping) to the drive wheels. Push toe and it flows and drives wheels in the mower-forward-drive direction; push heel and it flows the other way. Now, what about when neither is pushed? Then, essentially, all channels of flow are blocked--"neutral" (if you want to think of it that way) is not freewheeling (as with a car), it is drive wheel blocked by hydraulic lock at the motor. That is why a "hydo..." equipped mower does not coast as does a car. Alternatively, suppose that you could lift up and try to rotate the drive wheels in a particular direction. You would find that the wheels resist turning (unlike rotating RWD car drive wheels to remove a drive shaft, for example)...because they are essentially hydraulically locked by the motor that is not allowing compensatory fluid circulation in any direction!

Now, to disable the manual push mode that allows the drive wheels to rotate for manual pushing, look under the mower at the drive motor. It will be at the end of the belt loop or shaft being driven at the PTO beneath the engine. Now, find some kind of protruding lever big enough to grasp. If it seems "up" push it down; if "down" push it up...just make it go the other way to release. Now, start up and drive the mower normally. But wait! Before you mow, read the below.

Reason number 2 for unexpected drive wheel drive failure is absence of fluid to drive them....because you have not check fluid level and maintained it as the instructions directed you to do. So find the fluid plenum/level-check container and add some fluid if it is low. Just a little. Then start the engine and check lever with motor running. Fill carefully to indicated level but be very careful not to over fill. The mower should now run with valuable maintenance lesson learned. And remember that neglected fluid check can greatly shorten hydraulic motor life. Oh, make sure to check fluid level again when finished....after any air has been purged...add if/as necessary.

Nov 10, 2014 | Husqvarna Riding Lawn Mower 42 Inch Cut...

1 Answer

94 Chevy 2500 Clutch Engagement?


You probably have a hydraulic clutch. A hydraulic clutch has both a master and a slave cylinder. The slave cylinder engages/disengages the clutch plate. You might be low on clutch fluid in the master cylinder, or the system may need to bled similar to bleeding brakes. Worst case is you need a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. They should all be replaced when doing a clutch job.

Aug 23, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

K3500 hydraulic brake booster engages brakes when


hello there:
You will need to replace the brake booster to correct the problem in order to do this you will need to remove the push rod from you're brake arm separate the master cylinder from the booster and remove the four bolts on the booster and slide it out install in reverse hope this help you out sincerely D.Jones

Jun 12, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet C/K 3500

1 Answer

Suzuki Gr.Vitara.Front wheels dont engage when reversing in 4WD


The short answer is "no", but working out why could be a little bit difficult. Any further diagnosis should be performed on a hoist or with all 4 wheels off the ground and the transfer box in 4H. Be aware that any of the following checks where front and rear wheels may turn at different speeds will generate an ABS error code and a light on the dash that may need a Dealer to turn off - if you have ABS. You'll also need a couple of hydraulic brake line locking clamps. The first check would be to make sure the front prop shaft turns in reverse as it does in forwards 4WD. Why it wouldn't, I couldn't tell you!
Stop the engine, and while someone is holding their foot on the brake, clamp off both front hydraulic lines to each of the front calipers. Release the hand brake (park brake) and release the foot from the brake pedal (keep foot off brakes from now on) and restart the engine (in nuetral or N), and whilst the engine is idling, select 1st and slowly let the clutch out (if it's a manual), or select D (if it's an auto). If the line locks are holding the pressure in the front brakes, then the manual should stall, and the auto's back wheels shouldn't be turning (but the engine would feel like it's in gear). That would confirm that the front wheels are driving when in forwards 4WD.
Then we do the same test but going backwards, so select reverse and let the clutch out (or R if auto), and if what you say is true, then the back wheels should be spinning away at idle. If the engine stalled, or the back wheels aren't turning, then everything is OK.
Remember to remove the line locking clamps after this test.
I would think that you may have only seen the wheel that wasn't turning when going backwards. These cars have open diffs - so the wheel with the most resistance to rotating won't turn, but the one on the other side will. This is the same for both the front axle and rear axle for most Grand Vitaras. Very few have a factory rear LSD, and I don't think any got a front LSD.
I've just had inspiration - if the front wheels don't drive ONLY in reverse 4WD, the only thing wrong would have to be the front diff engaging mechanism or its related wiring/switching controls. If the relays that control the pump that supplies air pressure to the diff engaging diaphragm in the front diff housing don't get the "I'm in 4WD" signal from the transfer box, the pressure is relieved to the diff and you're back into 2WD. My next check would be to see if your reverse lights are working when in reverse. See if your reverse lights come on when in 4WD or 2WD. If they aren't working, or coming on at the wrong time, then SOMEHOW, the wiring/plugs on the gearbox/transfer case may have been mixed up (during a clutch replacement?) or the wiring somewhere else is wrong. I would probably do the checking of reverse lights before the first test above. Good luck. Let me know how you go.

Jan 14, 2010 | 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

Need a rebuild kit for the hydraulic cylinder that lifts the snowblower - does such a kit exist and what is the part number?


there are rebuild kits for some but not all, check your local jd dealer, my family ownd a jd dealer until last year jd stuff aint cheap. personally id type hydraulic cylinders into google and buy a replacement

Nov 06, 2009 | John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520...

1 Answer

Front wheel bearing 1986 Golf


Mount the tool on the wishbone and extract wheel bearing. Application example: ...... KL-0215-410 Press Tool Kit VW Golf III without Hydraulic Cylinder

Jun 28, 2009 | 1986 Volkswagen Golf

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