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I have a JD 4510 4wd. When I turn on the engage switch,to engage the front wheels, the hydraulic cylinder go's in just a very little. which not allowing the front wheels to engage into 4wd. I have changed the hydraulic cylinder and solenoid. that didn't help. is there anything I can check or replace?

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SOURCE: Blades on jd GT235 randomly turn on when engaged and will not stay on

check the safety switch on the seat

Posted on May 10, 2012

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Jd 3010 turns to the left by itself,leaks hyd. fluid from little valve below steering column that goes to brakes


Erm, fix the leak for a start, it's not eco-friendly and may cause you to have a serious accident ;)
Is the leak actually from the steering circuit?

You may have a worn hydraulics unit (can be replaced as a unit (second hand?)
Under what conditions does it turn left?
What wheel configuration do you have?
All the time, under braking?
Are the brakes binding.
Is it simply that the steering wheel is on the wrong spline (not centred)?
Has the steering been damaged (bent by collision)
Please supply more info

Jan 09, 2018 | Miscellaneous

1 Answer

My jd 3039r hydraulics. Loader and backhoe buckets lose position when running or shut down. Do I need to bleed hydraulics? If yes, how?


no
hydraulic system self bleed from repeated use
what you have are piston seal worn, cylinder walls damaged allowing bypass of oil or faulty control valve units

Oct 30, 2017 | Garden

1 Answer

4020 steering to the right is lazy , steering to the left is good , hydraulic system holds 2000 lbs. good any idea of problem and how to fix. gear shift is under steering wheel pretty sure a 69 model.


Have you had this tractor for some time or is it a recent acquisition? The JD 4020 1969 serial numbers go from 201100-222159. Lazy power steering to one side has two commom possibilities, internal leakage in the control valve, Or, if the front end had been worked on, the tie-rods were not set to center the steering wheel when setting the toe-in. If that is the case, and the steering wheel is properly centered when driving straight or has fewer turns turning right than when turning left, the steering wheel was re-centered by removing it and resetting it on the steering shaft spline, in which case it is rarely perfectly centered. If that is the case, the control valve may not open much and restricts oil flow when turning right.
It is possible the steering cylinder piston seal leaks in one direction more than the other, or that the front wheel toe-in is wrong.

Sep 04, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

94 Chevy 2500 Clutch Engagement?


You probably have a hydraulic clutch. A hydraulic clutch has both a master and a slave cylinder. The slave cylinder engages/disengages the clutch plate. You might be low on clutch fluid in the master cylinder, or the system may need to bled similar to bleeding brakes. Worst case is you need a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. They should all be replaced when doing a clutch job.

Aug 23, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

K3500 hydraulic brake booster engages brakes when


hello there:
You will need to replace the brake booster to correct the problem in order to do this you will need to remove the push rod from you're brake arm separate the master cylinder from the booster and remove the four bolts on the booster and slide it out install in reverse hope this help you out sincerely D.Jones

Jun 12, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet C/K 3500

1 Answer

Suzuki Gr.Vitara.Front wheels dont engage when reversing in 4WD


The short answer is "no", but working out why could be a little bit difficult. Any further diagnosis should be performed on a hoist or with all 4 wheels off the ground and the transfer box in 4H. Be aware that any of the following checks where front and rear wheels may turn at different speeds will generate an ABS error code and a light on the dash that may need a Dealer to turn off - if you have ABS. You'll also need a couple of hydraulic brake line locking clamps. The first check would be to make sure the front prop shaft turns in reverse as it does in forwards 4WD. Why it wouldn't, I couldn't tell you!
Stop the engine, and while someone is holding their foot on the brake, clamp off both front hydraulic lines to each of the front calipers. Release the hand brake (park brake) and release the foot from the brake pedal (keep foot off brakes from now on) and restart the engine (in nuetral or N), and whilst the engine is idling, select 1st and slowly let the clutch out (if it's a manual), or select D (if it's an auto). If the line locks are holding the pressure in the front brakes, then the manual should stall, and the auto's back wheels shouldn't be turning (but the engine would feel like it's in gear). That would confirm that the front wheels are driving when in forwards 4WD.
Then we do the same test but going backwards, so select reverse and let the clutch out (or R if auto), and if what you say is true, then the back wheels should be spinning away at idle. If the engine stalled, or the back wheels aren't turning, then everything is OK.
Remember to remove the line locking clamps after this test.
I would think that you may have only seen the wheel that wasn't turning when going backwards. These cars have open diffs - so the wheel with the most resistance to rotating won't turn, but the one on the other side will. This is the same for both the front axle and rear axle for most Grand Vitaras. Very few have a factory rear LSD, and I don't think any got a front LSD.
I've just had inspiration - if the front wheels don't drive ONLY in reverse 4WD, the only thing wrong would have to be the front diff engaging mechanism or its related wiring/switching controls. If the relays that control the pump that supplies air pressure to the diff engaging diaphragm in the front diff housing don't get the "I'm in 4WD" signal from the transfer box, the pressure is relieved to the diff and you're back into 2WD. My next check would be to see if your reverse lights are working when in reverse. See if your reverse lights come on when in 4WD or 2WD. If they aren't working, or coming on at the wrong time, then SOMEHOW, the wiring/plugs on the gearbox/transfer case may have been mixed up (during a clutch replacement?) or the wiring somewhere else is wrong. I would probably do the checking of reverse lights before the first test above. Good luck. Let me know how you go.

Jan 14, 2010 | 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

Need a rebuild kit for the hydraulic cylinder that lifts the snowblower - does such a kit exist and what is the part number?


there are rebuild kits for some but not all, check your local jd dealer, my family ownd a jd dealer until last year jd stuff aint cheap. personally id type hydraulic cylinders into google and buy a replacement

Nov 06, 2009 | John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520...

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