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Lm4035 parts pump rebuild kit

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: how to rebuild the pump

Kit 1857 is the water pressure seal kit. 1856 is the piston oil seal kit. The head of the pump has to be removed first. There are 6 bolts, most likely "allen head". After they are removed, the manifold head will separate from the crank-case (the part with all the mechanical bits). With the inside of the manifold head facing up, you will see 3 chambers (or holes) where the pistons do their work.

Inside of these chambers is where the packing seals and seal retainers live. The seal retainers are made of brass usually--could be a different allow on the XRA, but that doesn't matter. The point is that there are, in each chamber, one or two metallic retainer pieces that help to hold the pressure seals in place. These may pull out easily -- but often don't. I always use a tool called a slide-hammer. It has "fingers" that reach into the holes and mechanically expand, grabbing the retainers, and then the hammer part pops them right out. You can get creative and find a way to remove the retainers -- perhaps with two screw drivers, crossed like an X, and wobble to and fro while applying up pressure. I've done this when I couldn't find my slide-hammer. (They fit tightly, but are not pressed in.)

The most useful thing that I can tell you is to go slow and observe methodically. Keep things in order as you pull them out. Every pump is different, but typically, the first new piece that goes back into the pump head is a rather rigid feeling piece that has to be pressed into place (this piece may actually have an accompanying supportive piece that would go before it -- a hard black plastic ring that ends up supporting the "V" shape of the pressure seal). When I say "rigid", I don't mean as in metallic. It is more like a reinforced piece of hard, brown plasteen polymer. This is the High Pressure Seal. The "V" should be upside-down (if the head is laying on a workbench with the chambers/holes facing up). In other words, from your perspective, the cup is upside-down.

Now press it in with your thumbs. It is helpful to use a little oil on this seal to make the edges slick -- I press them in with my thumbs. Fingers are not strong enough to press them into place, but thumbs are -- just to give you an impression of the necessary force involved. Remember, this part is not metallic, so don't try to push it straight in, but let it tilt such that one side pushes in, and then it starts to wrap around, pushing in as it progresses around.

On most of these pumps, manufactured by the Annovi Reverberi Company, there is another seal that serves as a Low Pressure Seal. This one is quite different. It is much softer and made out of a rubber polymer. This one goes inside the outer-most metallic packing retainer. I generally remove the old one with a dental tool or small needle-nose pliers. It should wind up with the "cup" side down (just like the high pressure seal). As you rebuild each chamber with the new V-Packing Pressure Seals; after each metallic piece is inserted (with the help of oil to lubricate), tap it down gently with a 19mm (or so) socket and something light for a hammer (like a small crescent wrench). Just a little -- to be sure it is seated.

The next kit (1856) is Piston-Rod Oil Seals. If the pump is leaking oil, by all means, replace the old ones. If it is not, don't do it! Old oil seals are hard to remove without scratching the seats they sit in.
To remove old oil seals -- The ceramic pistons have to come off first. These pistons are easy to damage, so be careful. (As a side note, your pistons could be damaged already. They can crack under certain conditions.) After the pistons are out of the way, then you can use a dental pick or similar small/hooked tool to pull them out. They are usually made out of rubber with a steel washer in their core to add rigidity. Once the old ones are out, the new ones are simple to install. Just put them in the way the old ones were.
To put the pistons back on, clean the bolt threads and use some lock-tite. Tighten them to about 20 PSI, carefully (if you let your wrench lean sideways it could chip or crack the ceramic). Slather the pistons with oil before attempting to replace the manifold head. The new pressure seals will fit quite tightly over the pistons. Being careful to keep the head fairly straight, push it down over the pistons until it is far enough that the head bolts can reach the threads in the crank-case body. This way, you can use the bolts to pull the head the rest of the way on. Tighten each bolt just a little at the time such that the head is more or less pulled strait down (avoiding any severe tilting, which could damage the -- you guessed it -- ceramic pistons).

Tighten all head bolts, snugly. Remember, where the head and crank case body meet is NOT a water seal. It doesn't work that way. So there is no need tighten head bolts real tight.

And that, my friend, is that. I hope this helps you and please give me positive rating. Just shoot a note here if you have any further questions.

Posted on Mar 03, 2012


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