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What does F1 mean on Frigidaire model #316233850 oven does not work-burners do

We bought this used Frigidaire stove it worked before we got it home. We live in a mobile home. Replaced the 1980 Tappan range with Frigidaire 316233850. Plug on back of new stove did not match the plug in the wall. So, we bought a plug that matches the plug in the wall. Display shows code F1. Elements in oven do not work. Other than buying a used stove what have we done wrong. Thank you

Posted by Anonymous on

  • Frigidaire
    Frigidaire May 17, 2014

    Good Afternoon Friend, I understand that you purchased a used Frigidaire range, which was working before you got it home. I see that you replaced the plug on it and plugged it in, and are now receiving an F1 error code, with neither the elements or oven working. . I will be more than happy to assist you. If I could please have the model number of your range, this way I can better assist you in resolving the possible troubles with your appliance. You will be able to find the model number either on the back of the door or in the bottom drawer, if there is one. Looking forward to hearing from you. WP

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My Frigidaire range display has gone out and the oven doesn't work.

sun, first test is to power the unit down. Find the pair of breakers which are generally 40 or more amperes. Turn them both off and back on. If this doesn't fix it, you will probably need a circuit board.

Posted on Dec 13, 2007

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aborcass
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SOURCE: Frigidaire electric range smooth top with no oven function

although you dont have hte model number , that is indeed a correct and valid part number for the control lists for a about $120. since your back there give a quick look at the wiring into the unit, is that ok ??? adn where the burnout is on the control does it appear to have shorted out against the back wall??? perhaps a relay on the board just blew??? i really wouldn't thinkn tha another component was goning to make that go bad, also ck the bake and broil elements for continuity, perhapa wire fell off the element blowing out the control

Posted on Mar 20, 2008

SOURCE: 1998 frigidaire wall oven intermittant f1 code

F0 & F1 EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure Replace EOC (Electronic Oven Control)

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

rockitman187
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SOURCE: Surface of stove heats very hot when oven is on.

This is normal and designed to do so.

Posted on May 15, 2009

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