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ive got a JD 180 .with a bagger on it if you have the factory bagger
1st bolt bracket to back right hand side of tractor holes should allready be there next assemble bagger top to tractor bracket , hang collection bags (two) from top of bracket (open top to access) then assemble diverter tube all together three sections , snap end (wide) into bagger (no bolts needed) then fold back safety discharge cover on deck all the way snap the inlet adaptor into hole left by this (perfect fit) and last stretch rubber bungee up to deck wheel strut and place clip thru small moon clip there, now you willl need to replace your deck blades with the High Lift type (mulch) avail still from JD (theres a extra wing on back of it) this makes more air to scoot grass up the chute if not your gonna have a lot of cloggs
The bagger installs by using the supplied bracket on the rear of the tractor. Mount the frame of the bagger onto the bracket. then connect the discharge tubes using the spring connecters. Flip open the lid and slide the bags into the frame.
FIRST, ensure the tires have the proper pressure within 1 psi.
The deck should be level side to side, measure from the driveway to the bottom lip of the deck with the height selector lever set so the anti gouge wheels suspended in the air. The side to side tolerance is about 1/8" max. Next measure the bottom lip in front and back (center), the front should be 1/8" lower than the rear.
Adjustments are made using the hanger bracket nuts, turn it left and the hanger lowers, turn it right and it raises. Most decks stay adjusted well, it's the tires and loss of pressure that causes poor cutting or wedge shaped rows. Check the air pressure before every cutting, if it's problematic take the tractor (or tires) and have tubes installed with self sealing compound inside such as tire slime.
I have never seen a catcher for this size of deck, Husqvarna do not offer one, i am sure the deck aperture is different from the 48" machine, if the catcher is available in the US, would they just supply the upper and lower chutes? the 52" deck produces a vast amount of grass, so will fill the boxes very quickly, you would spend more time going back to the dumping area than actually mowing, mulching would be a much better option, if you have to collect would a tow sweeper not be better, it holds more grass, and you would not have issues with poor draught, and grass blocking in the chute ( a big problem with noise compliant machines, and damp grass , and side ejection )
They make extractors that you could try and use to remove it you have to drill a little hole and then insert the removal tool, but they make different kinds. Worse case would be have to remove the head and hope that there is enough bolt left to get vise grips or something else clamped on tight enough to remove the bolt. Or the bolt will have to be drilled out and the hole re-tapped. This last step should not be attempted by a novice, but can be done successfully.
Is this a hydrostatic transmission if it is check the fluid level. It will really need changing and some are sealed and not to be worked on BUT it is possible to drill a hole in the bottom and top of a sealed unit to change that fluid just don't get any shaving in it. These transmissions must stay clean. The drilled holes must be taped and plugged now you can change that oil just like your car. Don't forget to purge that transmission. By the way they use 20W 50 motor oil.
Assuming that you have the correct grass catcher..... Install the discharge deflector at the deck discharge. This is the smaller piece that bends 90 degrees. It will slide into clips on the deck when you have the deck's plastic deflector raised up. Next, install the bagging assembly. It's pretty straightforward. Lastly, install the plastic chute (tube). Push it in the grass catcher (bagger) opening, and then pivot it over the deflector and down onto it to seat it. Connect the straps.
I fixed my mower stalling issues on the L111 by loosening the gas cap. I ultimately drilled a hole in the gas cap and screened the hole. Sounds ridiculous but without that venting the engine would run approximately 20 mins and die. It was also much more difficult to start the next time. Something else to pass along to whomever might view this... I replaced the cranking battery with a battery that had allot more cranking amps and I no longer had hard start issues ( this was after I vented the gas cap). Hope this helps.
I have installed many 21" wheels on all the touring modles and have never had to raise the fender with any conversion kit.It should fit rite on without any parts. Yo do need to loosen up the mounting bolts and rock the nose of the fender down a little to get more clearanse at the bottom.