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Why won't my Kenmore 600 model 29622801 switch into spin cycle

No other problems. I have to manually switch it into spin cycle

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

dididsaythat
  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Automatic washer -110.24862300

sounds like may be in clutch see if you can help the tub start spinning when trying in spin setting...if trying to turn or turns some and stops most likey clutch slipping

Posted on Sep 03, 2007

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Top-loading, direct drive Kenmore model won't do spin cycle

In other words it pumps out but when it goes into spin nothing happens. The first thing to check is to remove the tranny(get the agitator out) take the 3 bolts loose and slide out the tranny(no need to get the tub out) Take a look see at the plastic brake release collar mounted on the bottom of the basket drive. The ear will break off and thus no spin.3ef16e8.jpg If that looks ok let me know...

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: Squeaking washing Machine during spin cycle

Hi
Loks that your machine is pretty old and hence the belt has hardened making a squeaking noise.
Good fix is get a new drive belt.
OR
Quick fix is you could put some oil on the drive belt..... it will work for now but not a permenant solution.
Regards
Berry

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore 80 series model 110 23832100 - Washer

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+23832100&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for these washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin
gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

All told, fixing ours cost less than $30 including about 16 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil (from an auto parts store) instead of $170 plus service for a new transmission.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kenmore washer model sm 9711034. will not spin

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Three possibilities:

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It's also possible that the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission is broken:


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Ours had a similar problem.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

All of the above sound more difficult than they really are. If you're comfortable with a socket set, pliers/vice grips, screwdriver and willing to get a bit dirty (oil) you can save some considerable money.


As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Posted on Apr 16, 2010

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