Question about Kenmore Elite HE5t Washer
Turn the washer on, door is closed and shows locked, then washer starts making a clicking noise.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
red doorlock light on, wont do anything,
I have to unplug so it will shut off,
when I plug in and hit start, red light stays on again,
Posted on Mar 28, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore he5t
this looks like a classic whirlpool control board issue. fault is a communication error between board and panel. check connections.
whirlpool always recommends replacing both at same time. very common problem.
Posted on Jun 03, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore front load washer
I had the same problem and it went on few months. Then the final spin didn't work and I could smell something buring. Called AHS and they sent a tech, who said it was the bearing. Cost about $350. to fix. Will be replacing the washer soon, I don't think we paid too much more than this at the scratch and dent place.
Posted on Sep 06, 2008
Hi, Both of these fault codes point to a pressure switch issue. If you remove the top panel, three screws in the back, you will have access to the pressure switch. With the tub empty, remove the vinyl hose from the switch and blow backwards through the hose to clear any restrictions. If the fault codes return after diong this, you will likely need to replace the pressure switch. If you have any further questions or concerns please feel free to comment again, Good luck.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.
Within the transmission are a set of plastic cams that raise the agitator gear when moving into the spin cycle. If the cams are worn, the gear won't lift high enough (about 1/18") and the gears will grind.
Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.
Pull the transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.
Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams.
It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.
Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, this was helpful. Unfortunately, we couldn't locate any broken parts. "
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