Question about Raypak 130,000 BTU Propane Gas Pool H...
I have confirmed that there is a gas and power supply, but I hear nothing when I turn on my Raypak 130 pool heater. I don't hear the usual clicking while it is trying to ignite.
Posted by Anonymous on
Check to see if pressure switch is closed if not check copper line to it if ok check ignitor if ohms out ok disconnected should be 78 ohms at 70 degrees if shorted or open bad and relace also check for fuses
Posted on May 14, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Unless there is water running out of the inside it is always repairable. You can start by pulling the burner tray and cleaning the unit and the burners. Also pull the wires and clean the leads and contacts. At 23 the heater is probally a milivolt run heater so a small drop in power can stop the heater from working. Often the problem will be the pilot generator or the gas valve. The generator should delevop 1/2 a volt to run the heater. This can be measured with a milivolt meter. You should get 500-700mv from the generator. If you get that and have no pilot you may need a gas valve and if not you probally need a new pilot generator and it would be best to replace the whole pilot assembly. If you live in Calif. or someplace that makes standing pilot obsolet you can probally find these parts on line through Ray-Pak.
But before starting check the filter to be sure it's clean. If you have had the pool for 23 years that goes without saying but I have to say it anyway.
After that you can use a jump wire and isolate each itim in the saftey circut (thermostat, high limits, presure switch...) just follow the wire when it leaves the gas valve and follow it to each item and jump across. If you find one of these itims to be the culpret it is just a simptom and their is probally another problem and the part just keeps the heater from working so as to keep it safe from that problem. Good luck and let me know what you find and we can go further if need be.
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
SOURCE: Back flare on Raypak pool heater
You will need to pull the burner tray out and clean and blow out the burners. Then you will need to pull the orfaces from the gas manifold and clean each one and blow out the gas line. Then with a mirror you will need to check the fire brick inside the burner box. Then you will need to replace anything that is damaged. Good luck.
Posted on May 15, 2010
Testimonial: "thanks for the insight. I assume that I will have to disconnect the gas line and then reconnect afterward. Appreciate your information."
Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.
Replacing the roll out switch is an easy do-it-yourself repair. Fixing the problem causing the roll out of the burner flames in the first place is a bit more of a pro job. Something is causing to much heat to roll out the the combustion chamber into the control area causing the switch to fail. You will continue to burn the link until the underlying problem is fixed.
If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Raypac digital
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. Find the rollout switch and on the back there is a small red button if you push the button in it will reset the switch. The rollout is usually located near the burner section of the heater.I will attach a picture of a rollout switch which shows the small red button.
Posted on Oct 25, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 7-year old
It sounds like an issue of either incorrect gas valve settings, or a case where the refractory kit has started chipping off on the flame bed.
Heres what you need to find out. Can your service tech tell you what the pressure is before and after the regulator?
On natural gas it should be before the gas valve at 7-14 inches of water colum.
After the gas valve should be 4 inches water colum.
For propane it should be between 12-14 inches water colum before the gas valve and 10.5 inches water colum after the gas valve.
If you tech cannot verify any of this, you need a new tech. This should have been the first thing to be looked at.
Note: The most common cause for flame rollout (which is what you describe) is the refractory kit chipping and cracking . Then peices fall onto the burner tray and cause the high flame condition that you mentioned. If the tech working the job has not checked before and after gas pressures, and cleaned and inspected the burner tray and the heat exchanger. Fire him. These are all the quick easy things that would get you down to the bottom of your current situation. I wish I could go more in depth with troubleshooting, but it is difficult on these forums. You can contact me with any other questions at firstname.lastname@example.org
Posted on Apr 26, 2011
Testimonial: "Adam was very responsive (w/i 30 minutes) and suggested 2 great solutions. Thanks a bunch, Adam!"
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