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I need directions or diagram to assemble clutch

I want to assemble the clutch. It consists of plates with four small extensions on the outside and four on the inside. Looks something like bike clutch assembly but i am not sure.

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  • 2,509 Answers

Go to the prominent search engine select images and type "Briggs Stratton clutch diagram"
There are multitudinous diagrams, your model, whatever it is (you didn't say) is likely to be there.

Posted on May 15, 2014

Testimonial: "Thank you for the usefull advise. Unfortunatly it is a Gudbrad Werke (1961) model 7727. I tried to change the B & S with no success."

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 146 Answers

SOURCE: how to change the clutch on a gravely ZTR 260z

There is an "anchor" that bolts to the chassis, and it has a rod-like part that sticks up to engage a notch in the PTO clutch to keep it from spinning. Look here -- there are parts diagrams for your mower (find the right model number) that will help a lot. Good luck!

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: John deere 68 riding mower steering column won't

Just had same problem with my craftsmen. There is a very inadequate little nylon bushing supposed to keep that shaft stable. When worn out it allows that shaft to move and puts the gears in a bind. It is located on the end closest to arced gear where shaft hooks to drag link. Its a pain.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

Testimonial: "sounds good will try to fix it thx"

  • 6468 Answers

SOURCE: need to jnstall elect clutch how do i seperate the pully assembly to the clutch on a craftsman 18.5 hp b&s engine

the new clutch comes with a new pulley the bolt in the center holds the assembly to the engine

Posted on Jun 11, 2012

Testimonial: "thanks im waiting for delivery"

emissionwiz
  • 75051 Answers

SOURCE: looking for diagram of CTH 127 lawn tractor clutch, as was trying to fix and it fell apart

I am sorry we have no repair manuals here at fixya. Please contact the parts dept of a local dealer for a parts breakdown diagram.

Posted on Sep 02, 2012

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Missing license plate wiring and complete assembly. How do I splice in to the trailer or tail lamp wiring? Off the "brown wire"? Is it really that easy?


These are the diagrams basically from the headlamp switch going back to the license plate lamps. The main splice after the headlamp switch going back is in the main harness near the warning chime module. If you need a larger picture or the entire outside lighting wiring, feel free to email me at csautomotivecars@att.net with all your vehicle information. Yes it is that simple by just splicing into the main rear light wiring at the brown wire. Hope this is what you were looking for.....


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Oct 28, 2012 | 1992 Ford F250

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How do i pull the clutch assembly on a 84 fxrs


Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

Good Luck
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Jun 10, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

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Which side of the clutch does throw out bearing go on


The throw out bearing will be on the outside of the clutch assemble. What it does is push against the fingers in the center of the pressure plate.

Mar 08, 2011 | 1992 Acura Vigor

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Looking for step by step instructions on replacing a stator on a 2001 FXDWG


To replace the stator on your Wide Glide, you'll have to pull the outer primary cover off. This means drain the oil and remove the outer primary cover. Then, you'll need a wrench to remove the large nut on the engine compensator sprocket. You'll probably need a "locking bar" to wedge between the sprokets to lock the assembly from turning. Remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly, remove the clutch release plate that is held in by the snap ring. Inside the clutch is a nut that has LEFT HANDED THREADS, remove this nut. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Grab the clutch assembly and the engine compensator sprocket and lift these parts and the chain off as a unit.

Now, there are some thin spacers that go behind the sprocket shaft extension and a 0.090" thick spacer that goes behind the rotor. Do not mix these shims up. You'll see two holes in the rotor. I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to get the rotor off. Stick them in the holes just slightly, squeeze the outer ends towards each other and pull the rotor off. The magnets are pretty strong. The stator is held on by four small Torx head bolts and there's nylon retainer with two small screws that hold the plug in. Retorque the four Torx head screws to 40 inch pounds of torque with a Loctite #242 blue or equivalent thread locking compound on them. Reassembly is the reverse of the assembly. The torque on the clutch assembly nut (mainshaft nut) is 60-70 foot pounds with one line of Loctite #271 red locktite, (remember this nut has left-handed threads) and the engine compensator sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds with two lines of Loctite #271 red. Adjust the primary chain so that the up and down play in the center of the top run is 3/4" to 7/8" cold. Outer primary bolts torque to 100 inch pounds.

For a better explanation, you'll need an OEM service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 24, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

3 Answers

I need aclutch plate assembly picture/ diagram


You can go to autozone.com and register for full free online repair manual for your car. It has diagrams, parts locations, step-by-step directions, tesing, replacing,, and much much more.

Dec 09, 2009 | 1994 Ford Aspire

1 Answer

I need to tear down my transmission in a 1988 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24 2.8L i am fixing the clutch and i need diagrams on how to take it apart and put it back together


Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Regards,


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3



0900c1528003be16.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  3. For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.




0900c1528003be17.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles
  1. Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  2. Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
  3. Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
  4. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
  5. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.




0900c1528003be18.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts
To install:
  1. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
  2. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
  3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
    1. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
    2. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
    3. Remove the clutch alignment tool.

  4. Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
  5. Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.



WARNING When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.

  1. For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.


ADJUSTMENTS


All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:
  1. Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
  2. Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.

On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.

May 04, 2009 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need clutch replacement directions for Ford Ranger


Remove drive shaft,remove crossmember under transmission.Remove transmission and diconnect linkage.Remove bell housing,and clutch berring assembely.Remove bolts on pressure plate.Once this is done.Remove fly wheel for machineing.you will need a pilot shaft to alighn clutch assemblely.Possible one will come with new clutch and pressure plate.Reverse assemblely in same order remember to torque all your bolts with torque wrench.Take your time.

Apr 19, 2009 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

Replace AC compressor clutch


you will need to have the small tool kit that comes with both tools for pulling and installing clutch assembly. Check with Autozone and see if they have it in their tool loan program.

Nov 22, 2008 | 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab

1 Answer

Clutch


There is a retaining clip that holds the plates in the basket. The assembly will need to be depressed in order to get the retainer in place. You can get a diagram, or at least view the diagram for the assembly at the parts counter of your local HD dealer. The local dealer here has stopped printing out the diagrams for me, but will still let me view them. Generally that's all you need anyway, just to get the idea.

Sep 01, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

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