Question about Whirlpool Ovens
Model # gw395letq02 serial # xt2405911
Posted by Anonymous on
1.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
2.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
4.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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Posted on May 18, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
look on the back of the unit, there should be an envelope that has a paper in it, that paper should tell you what the code means.
Posted on Apr 02, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool Wall Oven not working
It is likely the Thermal Cut-Off (TCO) fuse, which for many Whirlpool ovens is located on the back of the unit. Turn the circuit breaker for the oven OFF first. You'll need to remove the trim on the left and right side of the oven (2 screws) and then remove the screws holding the oven in the wall. You can locate it easy enough by looking for the thermal fuse on any of the major appliance part websites. The test is simple enough if you have an Ohm meter, as it will be an open circuit if it is blown. There is only one fuse (normally) so if it is blown neither the bake or broil element will work. There should be a Tech Sheet located behind the control panel which will help, but if you don't feel comfortable doing this call a service tech.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
electric oven heats to correcect temp then drops and does not get back too appropriate temp. For example, set at 400, gets there then drops to 275-300
Posted on Dec 25, 2009
PF is usually power failure.
If "PF" appears at any other time, a power failure occurred. To remove "PF"and to reset the clock, press STOP/CLEAR.
Unplug the unit for half an hour or so to see if it will reset.
If not try to get into the diagnostics so you can see if there is a stored
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.
Posted on Jul 17, 2010
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