The fan stop blowing, we replaced the motor today. Now the fan runs, then it stops and we are getting hot air coming through the house. Before this we have had 4 burned wires, that was replaced. Also the main circuit breaker keeps tripping. Not sure what is going on with our unit. I need help
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The bearings are bad in the motor and after the fan runs enough it eventually gets hot, making the bearing screech and the fan locks up. Need to replace motor again. See if it has a warranty. The reason it gets hot is because the fan is what removes the heat from the coil and if the fan isn't running there is nothing to cool it off so to speak.
Replace motor fan and capacitor, it is a very simple task. Turn breaker OFF. Then all you have to do is remove about four screws from the top grill, about four more that fasten the motor fan assembly, unplugg electrical connectors and label them and install the new one and switch fan blades.
No special knowledge is required to perform this job. Cost: about $140 +-.
On the other hand, you call a HVAC technician, they supply the motor and capacitor, otherwise they won't give you warranty. Cost $300+. Look on the Yellow Pages for one in your neighborhood.
The motor gets hot from over amping for various reasons. Nine times out of ten the fan motor needs to be replaced. This really isn;t something that most people can do without proper training. The way it's done on the outside chance that you have the mechanical expertise is, you shut the electric off to the A\C, with a 5/16s driver unscrew the sheetmetal screws at the top of the unit and gently lift the lid and unbolt the four bolts holding the motor turn over lid, pull the electric leads of, making notation where each goes, back the retainer screw off fan blade and remove blade. Unscrew belly band pull out motor. Take this motor to the parts supplier to match exactly the right motor. (All of this is probably academic because almost all supply houses do not sell to the public, it's too dangerous) If you get the motor just reverse everything you did to take the other one out. The best route is to spend a couple hundred dollars and pay a Tech to do it right, It's more involved than an electric or plumbing fix. One other thing to get you by. Get a square box fan and fix it to the top, expelling the air upwards, turn on high and turn on unit, This usually works til a Tech arrives. It may not be as good as normal but it will cool to some degree. Good Luck
If the outside unit is running and the inside unit is not, probably a problem with the fan motor itself or its capacitor. If you have to have someone repair or replace the fan $200-$250 with parts, a capacitor for a service call and part $100 or so. Check it yourself first to see if there is anything obvious broken wire, hot connection, etc if you feel safe doing that. Turn the power off first. There is also a chance the thermostat could be the problem. Have you tried running the fan on the thermostat "fan on" setting?
YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,
This is nothing but an either or -or ! First, make the thermostat calls for cool, there are suppose to be 2- noise outside, the fan motor and the compressor (and if a old system,a humming noise which is the contactor coil which picks up the main 240-volts).. hurry up and take a stick or something and turn the fan blades, if it picks up speed and run, then its the capicator. If not then the fan motor is bad.! (BOTTOM LINE)!