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How install wr9x480 in place of wr9x330 - Sears Refrigerators

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Remove and replace LCD screen


That is so easy task
remove the tv cover . Then unplug the sockets from the tv boards

then take the screen with frame outside. And remove the feame carefully. By a suitable tool or rigid card so you don't leave wear sigbs at the screen frame

the frame is installed on thr screen by clips.so carefully at the places of the clips the frame will be removed

now install the new lcd sceen at the frame. Press the frame at the clips places untill you hear the sound that it fit on the screen

and install the new screen sockets at same places where the old were installed

important note. Sign tge sockets before installing the new screen. Put number for same socket on the screen and thr tv board. At tge male and tge female plug

May 07, 2015 | Video Cameras

Tip

How to Install a Bathtub


Anyone can install a water bathtub, but to do it right so that it will last a lifetime takes some time to make sure that it is installed properly. If installed correctly the bathtub you install will be well supported and will not experience the stress that ones that are not installed properly will experience.

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The first part is to make sure that the space is exactly the same size as the tub or tub/shower unit. Leave the end wall out till the unit is in place and then fasten it in place.
If you take the time to notch out for the lip on the tub or the tub/shower unit, your dry wall will not have to bow out over it. Place the unit in place and mark the studs, then chisel out ¼” deep so that the tub sits back and the lip is flush with the face of the studs.

Once you have the unit “fitted” exactly to the space, you are then ready to install the bathtub or tub/shower unit. By this I mean that I “set” the unit in a bed of mortar to make sure that the bottom of the unit and the unit it’s self cannot possible move or flex when weight is in it. To do this you need to make a bed to set the tub into.

Depending on the size of the unit, usually one bag of mortar mix will be sufficient for one fixture. Mix the water with the mix right before you are ready to set the unit. Make sure that the mix is stiff enough so that when you place it on a pile it will stay and not run. Now place the mortar in the center under where the unit will set. Place a sufficient amount so that you will have to press down on the unit to “set” it into the mortar.

Carefully place the unit in place and gently press it into the mortar until it is sitting level. You can now place a couple of screws into the lip to hold it in place until the mortar gets hard. After a few hours the mortar will be hard and will fully support your unit. The bottom of the unit will not be able to flex at all and your unit will be on the road to outlasting you!

You can now finish the remaining wall, then trim the unit and finish the walls. Plumbing can now be installed. Remember to provide access to the plumbing just in case of future problems.

on Feb 27, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

How do you replace the crankshaft position sensor


1.) Disconnect the negative battery ground cable before you begin the install process.

This is an important safety measure; it ensures that there will be no accidental shocks that could injure you; and as a means of preventing any damage to the car's electronic panel.

2.) Usually the crankshaft position sensor is placed in front of the engine, by the main pulley. In some cars, the sensor may be placed at the side of the engine or at the back.

3.) Notice that the crankshaft position sensor is secured in place by a bolt and there are wires attached to it.
First remove the wire harness (it generally comprises of three wires) from the sensor.
Pay attention to the wire connections as you will have to reattach them in the same order once you change the crankshaft position sensor.
When the wires have been disconnected, unscrew the bolt. This can be done with the help of a socket wrench. Once the bolt is removed, you can remove the failing sensor and replace it with the new sensor.

4.) Place the new sensor in exactly the same slot. This part is a little tricky.
The sensor is sealed to the interface with a mechanical gasket better known as an O-ring. When you change the crankshaft position sensor, you also need to reinstall a fresh O-ring, as the old one can't be reused.
Place the O-ring around the sensor as you install the new crankshaft position sensor in place. When you are done, reconnect the wire harness in the same order as they were- prior to the install.
Usually, the unit will lock into place. If the sensor does not lock into place and requires adjusting, use a paper spacer to achieve the above result.
Once the sensor is in place, you're done with the repair installation.

5.) Reconnect the battery.

Feb 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to change front wheel bearing


Hub and Bearing Removal & Installation NOTE: The removal and installation of the wheel bearing and hub from the steering knuckle is only to be done with the steering knuckle removed from the vehicle
To Remove:
  1. Remove the steering knuckle and hub and bearing assembly.
  2. Remove a wheel lug stud from the hub flange using a C-clamp and Adapter Tool 4150A or equivalent.
  3. Rotate the hub to align the removed lug stud with the notch in the bearing retainer plate. Use a proper C-clamp and adapter tool to press out one of the lug studs 7922eg64.gif

    Rotate the hub in order to remove the lug stud 7922eg65.gif

  4. Rotate the hub so the stud hole is facing away from the brake caliper's lower rail on the steering knuckle.
  5. Install ½ of a Bearing Splitter Tool 1130 or equivalent between the hub and the bearing retainer plate. The threaded hole in this ½ is to be aligned with the caliper rail on the steering knuckle.
  6. Install the remaining pieces of the bearing splitter on the steering knuckle. Hand-tighten the nuts to hold the splitter in place on the knuckle. Proper installation of the bearing splitter 7922eg66.gif

  7. When the bearing splitter is installed, be sure the 3 bolts attaching the bearing retainer plate to the knuckle are contacting the bearing splitter. The bearing retainer plate should not support the knuckle or contact the splitter.
  8. Place the steering knuckle in a hydraulic press, supported by the bearing splitter. Properly support the steering knuckle for hub and bearing removal 7922eg67.gif

  9. Position a driver on the small end of the hub. Using the press, remove the hub from the wheel bearing. The outer bearing race will come out of the wheel bearing when the hub is pressed out of the bearing.
  10. Remove the bearing splitter tool from the knuckle.
  11. Place the knuckle in a press supported by the press block. The blocks must not obstruct the bore in the steering knuckle so the wheel bearing can be pressed out of the knuckle. Place a driver on the outer race of the wheel bearing, and then press the bearing out of the knuckle.
  12. Install the bearing splitter on the hub. The splitter is to be installed on the hub so it is between the flange of the hub and the bearing race on the hub. Place the hub, bearing race and splitter in a press. Use a driver to press the hub out of the bearing race.
To Install:
  1. Use clean, dry cloth to wipe and grease or dirt from the bore of the steering knuckle.
  2. Clean the rust preventative from the replacement wheel bearing using a clean, dry towel.
  3. Place the new wheel bearing into the bore of the steering knuckle. Be sure the bearing is placed squarely into the bore. Place the knuckle in a press with a receiver tool, C-4698-2 or equivalent supporting the steering knuckle. Place a driver tool on the outer race of the wheel bearing. Press the wheel bearing into the steering knuckle until it is fully bottomed in the bore of the steering knuckle. NOTE: Only the original or original equipment replacement bolts should be used to mounting the bearing retainer to the knuckle. If a bolt requires replacement when installing the bearing retainer plate, be sure to get the proper type of replacement.
  4. Install the bearing retainer plate on the steering knuckle. Install the 3 bearing retainer mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 21 ft-lbs (28 Nm).
  5. Install the removed wheel lug stud into the hub flange.
  6. Place the hub with the lug stud installed, in a press supported by Adapter Tool C-4698-1 or equivalent. Press the wheel lug stud into the hub flange until it is fully seated against the back side on the hub flange.
  7. Place the steering knuckle with the wheel bearing installed, in a press with special Receiver Tool MB-990799 or equivalent supporting the inner race of the wheel bearing. Place the hub in the wheel bearing, making sure it is square with the bearing. Press the hub into the wheel bearing until it is fully bottomed in the wheel bearing.
  8. Install the steering knuckle and the wheel.
  9. Check and/or adjust the front alignment.
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Oct 15, 2010 | 2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

My signal lights didn't work on a 1988 gmc c6000 so I installed two lights to switch on off manually because there is no flasher unit or placed to plug one in. is there a way to make the lights I installed...


Sure,just place the flasher ,wire it in a series type of circuit.
place it in the hot or battery side wire,to the lights,but between the battery and the manual switch. If you place it between the bulbs they will flash alternately ,but not as bright.

Sep 09, 2010 | 1988 GMC C3500

1 Answer

How to replace 2002 pt cruiser starter


2.4L Non-Turbo Engine

Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable Air cleaner box cover Engine structural collar Starter electrical connectors Starter To install:
  1. Install the starter and torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Attach the starter electrical connectors.
  2. Install the engine structural collar on models with a automatic transaxle as follows, refer to the illustration for bolt locations:
    1. Place the collar in position and hand tighten the collar to transaxle bolt.
    2. Position the power steering hose support bracket and install the collar to oil pan bolt.
    3. Place the bending strut in place and hand start the bolt.
    4. Install the bolt through the strut and collar and hand tighten.
    5. Place the power steering hose support bracket in position and install and hand tighten the remaining bolts.
    6. Tighten the collar-to-transmission bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).
    7. Install the bolts through the strut and into the block.
    8. Tighten the remaining bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).

  3. Install the engine structural collar on models with a manual transaxle as follows, refer to the illustration for bolt locations:
    1. Place the collar in position and hand tighten the collar to transaxle bolt.
    2. Position the power steering hose support bracket and install the collar to oil pan bolt.
    3. Position the clutch slave cylinder into position and hand start the bolts.
    4. Tighten bolts (1) to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).
    5. Tighten bolts (2 and 5) to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
    6. Tighten bolts (3 and 4) to 20 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
  4. Install the air cleaner box cover and connect the negative battery cable.
2.4L Turbo Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Air cleaner box cover Upper starter bolt by pushing the inner cooler up and out of the way Inner cooler lower hose from the inner cooler Nuts retaining the inner cooler tube Studs retaining the power steering lines Position the power steering lines aside Engine structural collar Starter electrical connectors Starter
To install:
  1. Install the starter and torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Attach the starter electrical connectors.
  2. Install the engine structural collar on models with a automatic transaxle as follows, refer to the illustration for bolt locations:
    1. Place the collar in position and hand tighten the collar to transaxle bolt.
    2. Position the power steering hose support bracket and install the collar to oil pan bolt.
    3. Place the bending strut in place and hand start the bolt.
    4. Install the bolt through the strut and collar and hand tighten.
    5. Place the power steering hose support bracket in position and install and hand tighten the remaining bolts.
    6. Tighten the collar-to-transmission bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).
    7. Install the bolts through the strut and into the block.
    8. Tighten the remaining bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).

  3. Install the engine structural collar on models with a manual transaxle as follows, refer to the illustration for bolt locations:
    1. Place the collar in position and hand tighten the collar to transaxle bolt.
    2. Position the power steering hose support bracket and install the collar to oil pan bolt.
    3. Position the clutch slave cylinder into position and hand start the bolts.
    4. Tighten bolts (1) to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).
    5. Tighten bolts (2 and 5) to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
    6. Tighten bolts (3 and 4) to 20 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

  4. Install or connect the following:

    Power steering lines aside Studs retaining the power steering lines and tighten to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm) Nuts retaining the inner cooler tube Inner cooler lower hose to the inner cooler Upper starter bolt by pushing the inner cooler up and out of the way. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Air cleaner box cover Negative battery cable

Jul 03, 2010 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Freezer & fridge warms up on average every 6-8 weeks. Remedy turn off and leave 24 plus hours with doors open. On turning on the fridge and freezer cool down again to operating temperature....


Good day,
That's too long a period, for a normal. defrost system failure.
You'll have to wait until it quits, then remove the rear panel and look for ice (not frost) building up somewhere in the freezer compartment.
I have solved similar problems on this model, by replacing the defrost thermostat with a GE 60 degree thermostat, and a WR9X330 GE 6 hour defrost timer to get this model to defrost completely.

It's also possible that the refrigerant charge is slightly low, causing the defrost thermostat not to reach a cold enough temperature to perform a good defrost cycle. (building ice over a long period of time).

Make sure Freon 12 was used when replacing the compressor.
Some substitutes caused the evaporator coil to act as if it was
slightly low on charge.

Nov 08, 2009 | Westinghouse Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a KitchenAid side by side...Had ice of bottom of freezer and puddle of water on floor below door hinge. Followed instructions of removing back of freezer, using hair dryer and hot water to unstop...


This is a touchy machine. To eliminate the possibility, you should shut off the water supply to make sure water isn't running down the back wall. It means no Ice maker or water in the door for an extended period, but might be necessary
for testing.
I know you cleaned out the drain, but ice behind the heat reflector might still be there. I recommend the machine be shut off (unplugged) for 24 hours and a floor fan (20" style) placed in front of the open freezer door and left on to completely dry it out.
Other options which I have had to use was changing the defrost thermostat (often called a limiter) which is mounted to the top of the evaporator coil. I use the next higher temperature t stat,
If it came with a 50 degree t stat, I replace it with a 55 degree limiter. You can go as high as 60 degrees.
The defrost control on Whirlpool products (Kitchenaid is made by Whirlpool) use a very short defrost cycle. About 20 minutes. That's really not enough time. If it will fit, I use a G.E. WR9X330 which is a much better cycle. 6 hours run, 25 minutes defrost, compared to Whirlpool's 10 hour 20 minute cycle.
You have to switch the wires on the G.E's timer to work, and someone with some knowledge in this area will have to do it.
Lastly, I use a length of #14 bare copper wire. Wind about 6 to 8 turns around the bottom of the calrod heater and stick about 3" of the loose end into the drain hole. Transfers heat into the drain hole while defrosting. I finish off with flushing the drain thoroughly with a mix of hot water and bleach to really clean the drain.
I guess a lot to think over.
I never just open a frozen drain on a Whirpool product, for the reasons you have just posted.
The minimum is a 24 hour dryout, copper heat sink heater added as described, and bumping up the defrost thermostat temperature, with the hot water bleach mixture extensive flush.
I know moving the food for 24 hours is a pain, and shutting down the water for about 2 weeks is a pain as well. Sorry.
Any of these steps might get you over the hump. I posted every proccedure as food for thought. You can experiment as you see fit.

Oct 30, 2009 | Jenn-Air JCD2295HES Side by Side...

1 Answer

Fuel Pump Installation


Since the reverse of dis-assembling is assembling then you have to do is this. the owner of the car should locate where the place the fuel pump is to your car .Prepare the tools and equipment in fuel pump installation. So that the fuel pump will operate properly. Then Connect the fuel lines from the fuel pump.Then place or connect the fuel pump to the engine.But if the owner don't have to place the fuel pump to the car, then the owner should go to a car mechanic and let them place the fuel pump in the car.

Oct 04, 2009 | 2001 Mercedes-Benz M-Class

1 Answer

How to install a new water filter for ice maker


The normal proceedure is to simply remove the old one and screw the new one back in.

Sep 21, 2009 | Refrigerators

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