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Disassembly - Indoor Unit
Disconnect the unit from power supply before making any checks.
Be sure the power switch is set to "OFF".
To remove the Grille from the Chassis.
• Set the up-and-down air discharge louver to open
position (horizontally) by finger pressure.
• Remove the securing screws.
• To remove the Grille, pull the lower left and right
side of the grille toward you (slightly tilted) and lift it
1. Before removing the control box, be sure to
take out the wire screwed at the other end.
2. To remove the Control Box.
• Remove securing screws.
• Pull the control box out from the chassis
3. To remove the Discharge Grille.
• Unhook the discharge grille and pull the
discharge grille out from the chassis carefully.
4. To remove the Evaporator.
• Remove 3 screws securing the evaporator(at the
left 2EA in the Eva Holder, at the right 1EA).
• When repair, do not damage the Caution label.
• Unhook the tab on the right inside of the chassis
at the same time, slightly pull the evaporator
toward you until the tab is clear of the slot.
5. To remove the Motor Cover
• Remove 2 securing screw.
• Pull the motor cover out from the chassis
6. To remove the Cross-Flow Fan
• Loosen the screw securing the cross-flow fan to
the fan motor (do not remove).
• Lift up the right side of the cross-flow fan and the
fan motor, separate the fan motor from the
This sounds like a split system, the condensing unit outside and the evaporator coil and fan inside. You must be referring to the indoor fan, since the compressor and outdoor fan are controlled by the same contacter. The indoor fan relay contacts sounds to be welded shut, and needs to be replaced.
If you are talking about the outdoor unit, you need to remove the cover where the power goes in to the unit. The capacitor will be located in there along with the contactor and control board. There may be 2 seperate capacitors, 1 for the fan and 1 for the compressor but usually it's just 1 with 3 terminals on top. Com, Herm, & Fan. If you have the 3 terminal type then it is important to get the wires back in the right spot. Hope this helps.
There should be a wiring diagram with the new thermostat you can follow. If not,remove the control panel cover from the outside unit and follow the diagram printed on the inside of the cover. If there is not a diagram there,remove the panel from the indoor unit and use the diagram printed there.
If not one there tell us what brand thermostat and what terminals are on it and we can tell you which wire goes where.
Dear Heater Core Hunter, For your 01 expedition, that has the 5.4 liter motor in it, the heater core is located in the evaporator case assembly, where the blowermotor itself is located,This is a pretty darn good labor intensive job, if you open the passenger front door and get down onyour knees and look up underneath the dash.....that's what you're going to be removing and replacing, the heater core is inside of this black case.Please get back to me if you have any more questions...I'M HERE TO HELP!!!
JUMPER STAYS BETWEEN RC AND RH SO YOU HAVE INCOMING POWER FOR BOTH COOLING AND HEATING. THE WHITE WIRE YOU SAID C IS COMMON AND SHOULD BE USED IF POSSIBLE TO COMMON TERMINAL ON NEW STAT . IF THERE IS NO COMMON, THEN CAP IT BUT YOU'LL BE CHANGING BATTERIES EVERY FEW YEARS. I LIKE THE STATS WITH A COMMON POWERED OFF THE TRANSFORMER BUT YOURS MAY NOT HAVE A COMMON. THE GREY WIRE CONNECTED TO THE E TERMINAL IS FOR EMERGENCY HEAT. IT KILLS POWER TO THE HEAT PUMP, HEATS THE HOUSE ON IMMEDIATE CALL FOR HEAT WITH JUST THE INDOOR BLOWER AND THE INDOOR HEAT STRIPS. THIS PREVENTS ANY DAMAGE OR INCREASED DAMAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR IF YOU SUSPECT A PROBLEM.YOU SHOULD HAVE A TERMINAL ON THE NEW STAT THAT IS MARKED E OR PERHAPS X2 OR W3. THAT IS WHERE THE GEY WIRE GOES. IT IS POSSIBLE THE WIRE CONNECTED TO W DOES THE SAME THING AND YOU CAN GET BY WITHOUT THE GREY WIRE CONNECTED.ALSO SELECT SINGLE STAGE HEAT PUMP. SINGLE STAGE COOLING AND TWO STAGE HEAT . FIRST STAGE HEAT IS YOUR HEAT PUMP AND SECOND STAGE IS YOU STRIPS.